by Brent Robillard

The history of watchmaking is one of innovation, artistry, and resilience. Many brands flourished during the mechanical golden age, only to face near extinction during the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 80s. Some faded quietly into obscurity, while others went defunct, their names disappearing from dials for decades. In recent years, however, we have witnessed a remarkable revival of these heritage names. The market’s appetite for authenticity, craftsmanship, and vintage design has created fertile ground for forgotten brands to return with renewed vigour. At The Calibrated Wrist, we’ve covered many of these fascinating revivals, and this article brings together some of the most compelling. Below, we explore some of the most notable resurgences, examining their roots, their challenges, and the visionaries who brought them back.

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Aquastar: Deep Roots

Aquastar was founded in the early 1960s and quickly became synonymous with professional dive watches and instruments designed for underwater exploration—thanks in large part to aficionados like Jacques Cousteau. The brand gained prominence with models like the Deepstar, a chronograph engineered for precision timing during dives, and other innovations such as the Regate regatta timer and the Benthos 500, which pushed the limits of depth rating for recreational and professional divers alike. Aquastar’s designs were valued by professional divers, naval units, and sailing enthusiasts for their robust construction, legible dials, and specialized functions tailored to underwater and nautical use.

Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Aquastar cultivated a reputation as a forward-thinking brand that combined technical innovation with Swiss craftsmanship. However, like many traditional watchmakers, it struggled during the quartz crisis and gradually faded from the mainstream market in the 1980s, with production slowing and models disappearing from active circulation.

The brand’s revival began under watch entrepreneur Rick Marei, who recognized the enduring appeal of Aquastar’s heritage. Marei has overseen the reissue of classic models such as the Deepstar, remaining faithful to their original design while incorporating modern materials and manufacturing standards. Today, Aquastar balances historical authenticity with contemporary refinement, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts who value both the story and function of a true tool watch.

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Eska: The Quiet Diver

Founded in Switzerland in the mid-20th century, Eska established itself as a lesser-known yet respected watchmaker, producing reliable and capable dive watches. Its models, often robust and well-constructed, appealed to recreational and professional divers seeking functional Swiss timepieces without the premium of more prominent brands. Eska’s designs combined legible dials, sturdy cases, and dependable mechanical movements, reflecting the practical ethos of mid-century tool watches.

Like many Swiss brands, Eska struggled during the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s. Inexpensive electronic watches flooded the market, and smaller brands with niche appeal found it increasingly difficult to compete. Production slowed, visibility declined, and Eska was shuttered, though its watches occasionally surfaced among collectors who appreciated their quality and vintage charm.

In recent years, the brand has been revived and renewed interest from enthusiasts has brought Eska back into the spotlight. Collectors are particularly drawn to the reissue of the Amphibian 250 for its combination of Swiss craftsmanship, historical significance, and the understated design.

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Hanhart : Timing History

Hanhart was founded in 1882 in Germany’s Black Forest and quickly became known for precision chronographs and stopwatches, especially for military, aviation, and motorsport use. Its pre- and post-WWII reputation was strong, but the quartz crisis of the 1970s and ’80s curtailed production and slowed innovation, diminishing its visibility outside niche circles.

Unlike some contemporaries, Hanhart never disappeared entirely, continuing to produce stopwatches and limited wristwatches through the late 20th century. Interest in mechanical heritage pieces in the 1990s and early 2000s reignited enthusiasm for its historic chronographs, particularly the 417.

Today, under CEO Felix Wallner, Hanhart has embraced its tool-watch legacy, producing robust, historically inspired chronographs like the 417 ES and modern Flyback models. By combining utilitarian design with mechanical authenticity, the brand has re-established itself among enthusiasts who value both heritage and practical precision.

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Laco: The Flieger’s Flight

Founded in 1925 in Pforzheim, Laco became one of the original five manufacturers of German Beobachtungsuhren (B-Uhren) pilot watches during World War II. The brand thrived through the 1930s and ’40s, building a strong reputation for precision and reliability. However, the rise of quartz technology in the 1970s and ’80s hit Laco hard, and by the late 1980s it had largely slipped from public awareness. Production continued on a smaller scale, but few new mechanical innovations emerged.

Interest in mechanical heritage watches in the late 1990s and early 2000s allowed Laco to rebuild, drawing on its historic pilot watch designs. The brand’s revival gained momentum in the 2010s with historically faithful flieger reissues and limited editions, blending genuine aeronautical chops with contemporary refinements. Today, as it celebrates its 100th anniversary in 2025, Laco has reaffirmed its legacy in aviation timepieces, balancing heritage and modern watchmaking.

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Nivada Grenchen: Back to Form

Founded in 1926 in Grenchen, Switzerland, Nivada quickly earned a reputation for producing versatile and robust timepieces. The brand became especially celebrated for models such as the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, which combined chronograph functionality, water resistance, and legible dials, appealing to adventurers, pilots, and divers alike. The F77 line further reinforced Nivada’s commitment to precision and reliability, cementing the brand’s status among mid-20th-century Swiss watchmakers.

Like many heritage brands, Nivada struggled during the quartz crisis, and by the 1980s it had largely disappeared. For decades, its watches were sought mainly by collectors, prized for their vintage charm, mechanical reliability, and historical significance.

The brand’s revival began under Guillaume Laidet, alongside the resurgences of Excelsior Park and Vulcain. Today, Nivada Grenchen offers affordable, vintage-inspired pieces that honour the original designs while making them accessible to modern audiences. By blending heritage aesthetics with contemporary standards, the brand has successfully re-established its presence among enthusiasts of classic tool watches.

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Ollech & Wajs: Military Minded

Founded in the 1950s in Switzerland, Ollech & Wajs quickly gained a reputation for rugged, reliable tool watches. The brand became especially known for the OW Caribbean dive watch, as well as numerous military-issued timepieces prized for durability, legible dials, and precise movements. Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, OW established itself as a favourite among professional divers, pilots, and military personnel, building a legacy rooted in practical, no-nonsense design.

Like many Swiss watchmakers, Ollech & Wajs was hit hard by the quartz crisis. Production slowed, visibility declined, and the company scaled back in the 1980s. Under Albert Wajs, the brand maintained a presence in niche markets before passing to a new generation of leadership.

Today, under Charles LeMenestrel, OW continues to pay tribute to its heritage by producing durable, historically inspired dive watches, chronographs, and military-style timepieces. By combining vintage design cues with modern engineering, the brand appeals to collectors and enthusiasts who value credibility, robust construction, and a storied Swiss tool-watch legacy.

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Universal Genève: The Sleeping Giant

Founded in 1894, Universal Genève became one of Switzerland’s most innovative and respected watchmakers, particularly during the mid-20th century. The brand earned renown for its precision chronographs, elegant dress watches, and pioneering developments in automatic movements. Iconic models such as the Compax, Tri-Compax, and Aero-Compax cemented Universal Genève’s reputation among professionals, collectors, and enthusiasts, while the Polerouter, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, showcased the brand’s flair for combining technical sophistication with distinctive design.

Throughout the 1940s to 1960s, Universal Genève enjoyed international acclaim, supplying watches that were both functional and stylish, and pushing the boundaries of mechanical innovation. However, the quartz crisis of the 1970s and subsequent changes in ownership undermined production and market presence. By the 1980s, the brand’s relevance had waned, and it went through a series of different owners–including a Hong Kong-based investment firm; though its vintage chronographs remained prized among collectors.

Today, Universal Genève continues to generate interest through its historic timepieces, with vintage models achieving strong demand at auctions and among enthusiasts. While a full-scale revival has yet to materialize, Breitling–under the leadership of Georges Kern–and the Partners Group acquired the brand in 2023 and intends to reanimate the legacy of mechanical innovation, iconic design, and mid-century excellence. This will be a brand to watch.

Vulcain: The Cricket Sings Again

Founded in 1858 in Switzerland, Vulcain established itself as a pioneering watchmaker, renowned for mechanical innovation and functional timepieces. The brand achieved lasting fame with the Cricket alarm watch, introduced in 1947, which combined a reliable mechanical alarm with practical wristwatch design. The Cricket quickly became a cultural icon, earning the nickname “The President’s Watch” after being favoured by U.S. presidents including Harry S. Truman, Lyndon B. Johnson, and Richard Nixon. Alongside its alarm watches, Vulcain produced capable dive models such as the Skin Diver Nautique, blending robust water resistance with legible, purpose-driven dials for professional and recreational divers.

Vulcain’s prominence waned during the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, as inexpensive electronic watches disrupted the market. Production slowed, innovation stalled, and the brand gradually descended into bankruptcy at the end of the 90s.

In recent years, under the stewardship of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain has returned with modern reissues that honour its mid-century heritage. By preserving the design, functionality, and mechanical ingenuity of classic models while incorporating contemporary materials and manufacturing standards, the brand has successfully rekindled interest among enthusiasts and collectors, reasserting Vulcain’s place in the history of iconic Swiss watchmaking.

YEMA: Home at Last

Founded in 1948, YEMA quickly became one of France’s largest watchmakers, celebrated for robust tool watches like the Superman dive watch, Rallygraf chronographs, and Yachtingraf regatta timers. The brand thrived through the 1950s to 1970s, gaining popularity among divers, military personnel, and motorsport enthusiasts.

The quartz crisis of the late 1970s and 1980s, coupled with increasing competition from Japanese and Swiss brands, challenged YEMA’s mechanical and entry-level quartz offerings. In 1988, the brand was acquired by Seiko, which provided access to Japanese technology but diluted YEMA’s French identity. During the 1990s, the company largely disappeared from the enthusiast radar, producing lower-profile quartz models and losing much of its prestige.

YEMA’s revival began in the mid-2000s when it returned to French ownership. Under new leadership, the brand refocused on its heritage, reintroducing mechanical movements and historically inspired tool watches. This resurgence accelerated in the late 2010s with modern interpretations of the Superman and Rallygraf, reaffirming YEMA as a champion of French watchmaking and a respected name among heritage-focused independent brands.

Final Thoughts

There is something magnetic about a comeback story, especially in watchmaking. Brands that once defined eras, disappeared into obscurity, or simply faded in relevance, have been returning to the spotlight—each with a renewed sense of purpose. Some, like YEMA, Laco, and Hanhart, have stayed quietly consistent, never truly disappearing but enjoying renewed interest thanks to a market that is hungry for history and authenticity. Others have had to claw their way back from the brink, resurrecting not just a name, but a legacy.

The revival of these heritage brands speaks to a universal truth: collectors crave authenticity. Whether it’s the charm of a mid-century chronograph, the rugged appeal of a military field watch, or the romance of a vintage diver, these comebacks represent more than nostalgia—they are testaments to enduring design. In a digital world, the mechanical heart of a watch remains timeless, and heritage brands are proving that some stories are too good to stay buried.

The watch world’s fascination with heritage brands stems from its love of stories. Each revival offers more than just a new watch—it’s a window into a forgotten chapter, an old movement given fresh momentum.

What unites these brands is a careful balance of reverence and reinvention. Their teams are not just chasing nostalgia; they are curating it, refining it for a market that is more informed and more demanding than ever. In an era dominated by speed and disposability, the rebirth of a heritage watch brand feels like a quiet act of resistance—a nod to craft, history, and the enduring value of time well told.

For collectors and enthusiasts, these comebacks offer something new that still feels familiar. They remind us that horology is not static; it’s a living archive, one that rewards curiosity and keeps history ticking.

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About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.

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