We’re all too familiar with the following statement: Rolex and/or Blancpain created the first professional dive watch. One of them definitely did, and I would argue that Blancpain beat Hans Wilsdorf’s baby to the punch. But do you know what nobody talks about? The fact that neither brand created the first 1,000-meter diver. This award goes to Ollech & Wajs and the 1964 Caribbean 1000. The latter was created in partnership with Jenny Watches, the company that created the first mono-bloc cases (later made popular by Seiko) and the triple-gasket crown. In other words, the manufacturer of some of the finest professional watches worked with the then leader in case engineering and manufacturing.
Have you read Jason Heaton’s Depth Charge?
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Fast forward to 2018, O&W is under new management and the brand released the C-1000, a modern interpretation of the Caribbean 1000 which sealed the brand’s reputation for being a serious tool watch manufacturer. Although it’s not a large watch, given its 100 ATM depth rating, it nevertheless commands a certain wrist presence due to being hefty. Ollech & Wajs offers the C-1000 on either a metal bracelet, a rubber strap, or a nylon RAF-style strap. But, to be honest, it’s a strap monster, which is why today we’re going to do something a little different and pair the C-1000 with several straps from RSM. Because a watch as serious and capable as this one needs proper shoes.
Specs
I’m going to say it again: the O&W C-1000 wears quite well for a 1,000-meter dive watch. Normally, any watch that comes with more than 300 meters of water resistance tends to be abnormally large and long to supposedly accommodate for the extreme depth rating. What I’ve learned with the C-1000 is that proper engineering makes it possible to contain such water resistance within a reasonably-sized case. Indeed, the C-1000 has a diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug of 49.5mm, a thickness of 15.8mm (I’ll explain the latter in a minute!) and a lug width of 20mm. These dimensions are arguably good given how deep one can go with this watch. And the C-1000 wears great on my 6.25”/16cm wrist as long as it is paired with the proper strap.
This is due to the engineering bit: the sapphire crystal is thick and seriously domed (hence the 15.8mm thickness) and the case-back is convex, meaning it is domed inside. Having a crystal and case-back engineered this way is what makes it possible for a relatively small case to deal with the extreme pressures of the ocean’s depths. Normally, brands create larger cases and/or add helium escape valves. Ollech & Wajs was able to do without either. This means, however, that the C-1000 is heavy and that it wears best paired with a comfortable and light-weight strap. Although it is not the kind of watch I’d wear for a nice evening out, it pairs surprisingly well with two-piece straps.
Being a tool watch, the entirety of the case received a satin brushed finish which works well with the case’s utilitarian design. The mid-section curves down towards the lugs, the latter being long and wide. The screw-down crown is relatively small and easy to grip, so is the 120-click unidirectional bezel with its coin-edge finish and plain upper section. The narrow bezel insert showcases a fully graduated dive-time scale (my favourite!) and is topped by a piece of mineral crystal. Sapphire would have been better here for the extra scratch resistance; however the insert is so narrow and securely wedged in that I don’t see a problem with it.
Of Interest
If right now you go on the Ollech & Wajs website you’ll see that the C-1000 is offered with an ETA 2824-2 calibre. We don’t often see non-Swatch group brands offering ETA movements anymore, and when they do, it’s generally because the brand bought new old stock (NOS) someone found in a dusty basement of a defunct Swiss brand. In the case of O&W, the brand’s new owner stock-piled ETA movements before it was too late. For the spec-nerds out there: the ETA 2824-2 beats at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and has 38 hours of power reserve. Ollech & Wajs actually modified the ETA calibres to add an engraved main plate and O&W machined rotor (which is why the brand calls this calibre the ETA 2824-2 OW5).
Design-wise, the C-1000 is a professional diver through and through. The hour and minute hands are long and rectangular, providing maximum legality. The seconds hand comes with a triangular tip which perfectly aligns with the triangular-shaped applied hour markers at the 3, 6, and 9. All hands are fully brushed which nips light reflections in the bud, and the dial received a matte texture for the very same reason. A tiny rectangular applied hour marker can be found underneath the 6 o’clock framed date window and all other markers are white and painted onto the dial. All of this give the C-1000 a semi vintage vibe and an undeniable utilitarian appearance.
Quibbles
Let’s assume, since one would buy an Ollech & Wajs C-1000 because he or she has a strong inclination for proper tool watches, that one would be oka with the design and dimensions of this watch. However, one might be disappointed by the timid presence of lume. Indeed, only the hands, applied markers at the cardinal positions and a few hash marks on the bezel are lumed and, honestly, the brand could have spared a few extra layers of SuperLuminova. But, realistically, who actually goes diving with a mechanical watch nowadays? Few people do but it’s a little strange to have so little lume on a 1,000-meter dive watch.
But, actually, is it strange? Here’s a little scientific tidbit for all of your watch people: there’s enough light underwater in what is called the photic zone (up to 200 meters deep) that wouldn’t make it necessary to have lume on a watch unless you are diving at night. It’s when you dive into the aphotic zone (between 200 and 1,000 meters of depth) that all of what is left of sunlight is a dim, dark, blue-green light. (Thanks American Museum of Natural History!) Past 1,000 meters you are in complete darkness. By the way, the photic zone is where most aquatic organisms live as it is where marine plants and tiny microscopic marine organisms that engage in photosynthesis (I quoted that;).
The RSM Straps
Now let’s talk about shoes. I mean straps. I do like a variety of straps but specifically those which are made to be paired with tool watches. Hence RSM, a Singapore-brand designer of quality straps which started in 2019. In these photos I’m pairing the stubby C-1000 with no less than six straps from RSM which can be broken down into three categories: single-pass, two-piece nylon, and two-piece canvas. The two straps I like the most are the adjustable gray and khaki Vintage Mil Single Pass made of poly-cotton and designed in a way that the straps lay flat on either side of the wrist while the buckle/keepers sit underneath. The same design is used on their Herringbone Twill Strap which was the RSM’s first collection.
If, for one reason or another, you don’t fancy single-pass straps, then you might be interested in the X Hatch. The name comes from the lines and cross-hatched patterns created by the tightly woven polyester fabric. It looks as if the patterns are printed, and being made in this way, the tight weave means the straps are ultra solid though a tiny bit stiff. The X Hatch are paired with RSM’s winged buckle (which we can also find on the Vintage Mil Spec and Herringbone) which look great and come with the additional bonus of keeping the tail of the strap neatly tucked inside the large RAF-style floating keeper.
Last but not least, the Fine Canvas Strap. Canvas is a material often assimilated with the military as it is robust and water-resistant, being made of tightly-woven cotton that is normally covered with something that makes it water repellent. RSM worked with a Japanese canvas maker that dips the cotton into starch to finalise its resistance treatment. The Fine Canvas Strap comes in four earthy colours paired with beautifully polished buckles and a dramatic taper that makes them naturally contour the wrist. I’m generally not a canvas strap type of person but I must admit these are very comfortable to wear.
Final Thoughts
So, what do we have here? First, the Ollech & Wajs C-1000, perhaps the most robust, badass diver I’ve ever gotten my hands on. What I love about it is the fact that it looks like a tool watch. It’s not a luxury mechanical timepiece dressed in utilitarian clothing (you do know which brand I might be referring to, don’t you?) Given its specs and looks, we don’t have any reasons to want to question the raison d’être of the C-1000. It’s well-made, well-spec’d, and as the brand advertises so on its website, more than 90% of the watch is actually made in Switzerland. All of this can be had for $1,694 on a strap (rubber or nylon) and $1,846 on the bracelet which isn’t bad given also the heritage and know-how of the brand.
Then we have the RSM straps. With prices ranging $45-$78, one has many options to find the proper strap to match his or her favorite tool watch. Naturally, we are all born with different tastes and preferences. I prefer black, gray, or khaki straps while others prefer colorful ones. RSM’s collections orbit more in the natural/earthy tones which work just fine for me. But it might not be for you. What I can honestly tell you is this: RSM offers a great balance between quality and price. I’ve spent more for lesser quality straps and the really cheap ones are, well, cheap. There is a fine in-between which RSM seems to have hit.
P.S. I’m always honest.
For more information, please visit the brand websites (O&W / RSM Straps)!
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Vincent Deschamps is a museum professional, originally from France, with more than 10 years experience as a researcher, producing visitor experiences for national and international organizations. He is also the founder of mainspring.watch. You can follow Vincent on Instagram.
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