Ollech and Wajs is a brand I have long admired from afar. With only one authorised dealer in Canada (4250km away), getting hands on has not been simple. So, when the OW M-110 AS arrived a few weeks ago, I was delighted to find my admiration had not been misplaced. To be fair, Ollech & Wajs is playing my song. With a catalogue full of tactical-styled tool watches, the brand would have to lose major points in the execution to alienate me. But the M-110 AS only surprises with its thoughtful design and rugged finish.
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Built like a skin diver, the M-100 AS is hybrid of sorts. The handsomely brushed stainless steel case packs a solid 300m of water resistance. However, at the same time, it is fitted with a 360-degree bidirectional compass bezel. Of course, Ollech & Wajs can draw upon more than sixty years of experience as a maker of both military and dive watches. Here, clearly, we have the coalescence of those two practices in one robust piece.
At 39.56mm in diameter—and a very restrained 45.7mm lug to lug—the M-110 AS is also incredibly wrist-friendly. Moreover, in true skin diver fashion, the case profile reveals significantly curved lugs which drop below the case back for increased fit. Those lugs are also finished in a fine circular brushing across the top and curl gently into the horizontally brushed midcase. In addition, they are drilled for quick and easy strap changes.
Despite a thick domed sapphire crystal, the watch is only 12.5mm tall, which contributes to the balanced wrist experience. Its similarly brushed bezel maintains coloured cardinal point markers and an angle scale which can be used to calculate azimuths and bearings for rudimentary navigation—or even double as a dive bezel in a pinch. It is friction fit with a nice smooth action and a fine-toothed knurling. Contributing to the skin diver aesthetic is the over-sized, and unprotected, screw down crown, which is signed with the brand logo.
The dial—which is also reminiscent of mid-century divers—is an almost indescribable colour. Officially, it may be grey or olive, but actually it resembles moss or lichen. In any case, I really like it. Even though pale, the dial does not suffer in legibility due to the stark white dot and dash hour markers. In the chapter ring, there is a minute track that also indicates the three-minute “radio silence” periods immediately after each quarter hour—which, in military practice, are reserved exclusively for making or listening for distress signals. The baton-styled hands, markers, and silence periods have all been treated with Super-LumiNova.
This was my first experience with the new Soprod Newton Precision movement at the heart of the M-110 AS. The P092 used here is the result of a close collaboration between the makers and the brand. It is modified to OW’s specifications and adjusted in five positions. It features a nickel base plate and a custom rotor. As indicated on the dial, the movement caries the brand’s own ‘PRECISION’ rating. It is a 4Hz calibre, featuring 23 jewels and a 44-hour power reserve. It should also deliver an accuracy within +/- 7 secs/day. The Soprod Newton P092 is independently tested at the Laboratoire Dubois in Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and has been awarded a Chronofiable certification. This speaks to the movement’s durability and dependability.
Late last year, the M110 was launched with an on-the-fly, micro-adjusting mesh bracelet; however, the newer iteration featured here is now equipped with an ‘infantry green’ strap—crafted from reclaimed military-grade double twill hemp canvas. The material was sourced from the Swiss Army’s surplus supply, and was previously used to make backpacks and all-weather vehicle skins. In strap form, it is lined with Italian leather for increased comfort. The fabric was originally manufactured in the 1950s, but touted even then to last 100 years. If that is the case, you still have a generation of usage ahead. The strap edge is intended to fray subtly over time, giving it the rugged appearance you’ve earned through your adventures. It has a milled stainless steel buckle, finished to match the case and is signed in the company’s original initials and date of founding, “OWZ 1956” (Ollech & Wajs Zurich).
SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 39.56mm Diameter 12.5mm Thick 45.7mm Lug to Lug 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Case Back & Crown Bidirectional Compass Bezel 300m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal /w AR Mix of Printed and Applied Indices Matte Dial Baton Handset Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Soprod Newton P092 Chronofiable Certified Adjusted in Five Positions 23 Jewels 28 800bph 44-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Custom Double Twill Hemp Canvas Strap /w Stainless Steel Buckle |
Ollech & Wajs M-100 AS
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Of Interest
Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs established Ollech & Wajs Zurich in 1956. Originally, it was a retail counter peddling other Swiss brands. A year later, they began manufacturing their own timepieces, as well as other brands, such as Helsa. However, in 1964, OW launched an industry disrupting 1000m diver—the OW Caribbean 1000 Precision. It featured a pioneering monobloc (‘Triple -Safe’) case well ahead of anything on offer by Rolex or Omega at that time.
However, the brand’s military provenance arrived in a round-about way. By the mid sixties, the build up of American troops in Vietnam had resulted in an unprecedented deluge of orders by individual servicemen. The brand even received bulk orders from whole battalions, including enquires from the US Department of Defense. Available at a discount from PX stores, models like the aforementioned Caribbean, the Aquaguard, and the Early Bird became popular purchases, despite never having been issued officially to troops.
Quibbles
There is not much to lament in the M-110-AS, but lume in the bezel cardinal points would have been a thoughtful inclusion.
Final Thoughts
The Ollech & Wajs M-110 AS is a rugged and reliable tool watch. Its vintage design cues are nicely juxtaposed with a decidedly modern colourway. I have no doubt that this piece would do well in harsh conditions. The case construction exudes confidence. The movement has proven itself before it even leaves the premises. The brand adheres to an 18-month journey for each iteration, during which time it submits a series of eight prototypes to rigorous stress tests in their Swiss Jura workshop. It feels solid and wears well. I was also pleasantly surprised by the level of finishing. The M-110 AS is not a luxury watch dressed up as a tool, but a tool that aspires toward luxury.
The Ollech & Wajs M-110 AS retails for $1610 USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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