by Brent Robillard
Sometimes the right dive watch is the one that doesn’t try too hard
There is a trend in modern dive watches. Once built almost exclusively as practical tools, they have gradually become canvases for experimentation. Cases have grown more irregular. Bezels have become increasingly elaborate. Dial colours now range from tropical gradients to fully lumed surfaces, and complications once reserved for pilots or explorers routinely find their way into watches destined for the ocean.
It’s all good fun. I’m not complaining. But every so often I find myself wondering what happened to the straightforward dive watch. You know the one. Skin diver case. Timing bezel. Clear dial. Good lume. Strong water resistance. A strap you wouldn’t hesitate to dunk into a lake.
That’s precisely where Citizen’s new Promaster Dive BN0266-07E finds itself. It doesn’t attempt to reinvent the category. Instead, it reminds us why the category existed in the first place.
Longines HydroConquest vs Tudor Black Bay
A Long History Beneath the Surface
Citizen has earned the right to keep things simple. Long before dive watches became lifestyle accessories, the company was producing some genuinely serious underwater instruments. In 1982, Citizen introduced the Professional Diver 1300m, an engineering achievement capable of withstanding depths few divers would ever experience. Three years later came the original Aqualand, the world’s first dive watch with an electronic depth sensor—a watch that remains a favourite among collectors today.
The Fujitsubo, or Challenge Diver, dates back to 1977. The momentum continued throughout the late ’80s and early ’90s. The now-famous “Fugu” Promaster arrived in 1989 with its distinctive serrated bezel, while the NY0040 followed in 1993, becoming something of a cult classic after finding favour with professional divers and military units alike.
The modern Promaster collection owes a great deal to those watches. While today’s models incorporate newer materials and technology, they still carry the same emphasis on reliability over spectacle.
Advertisement
Check out the Citizen Eco-Drive Tsuki-yomi
Key Features of the Citizen Promaster Dive
AThe Platonic Ideal
If someone unfamiliar with watches asked me to draw a dive watch from memory, it would probably end up looking remarkably similar to the BN0266-07E. The proportions immediately feel right.
At 40.6mm across, the stainless steel case avoids the oversized look that became fashionable for so many years. It sits comfortably on my 6¾-inch wrist and wears much smaller than its specifications might suggest. Thickness is kept in check, while the short, downward-curving lugs help the watch disappear into daily wear.
The black ion-plated bezel deserves mention as well.
Advertisement
Bezel
Paired with its aluminium insert, it gives off a subtle vintage warmth that reminds me of old bakelite bezelst. It isn’t glossy enough to appear precious, nor completely matte. Instead, it lands somewhere comfortably in between.
The bezel itself operates with sixty clicks. No, it doesn’t produce the wonderfully mechanical soundtrack of a luxury Swiss diver costing several thousand dollars, but each click lands positively, and backplay is minimal. Once set, it stays put.
Advertisement
Eco-Drive: Citizen’s Secret Weapon
On the surface, this feels like a classic mid-century dive watch. Underneath, however, sits one of Citizen’s defining technologies.
Eco-Drive has become so commonplace that it’s easy to forget how genuinely useful it is. Powered by light rather than disposable batteries, it quietly removes one of the few inconveniences quartz watches have traditionally carried. Leave the watch in daylight, wear it regularly, and it simply continues running. No battery changes. No winding. No real thought required. It’s one of those features that becomes more appreciated the longer you own the watch.
Better Than the Price Suggests
Citizen has developed a reputation for producing watches that cost less than they look. This Promaster is another example. The black dial absorbs and prioritizes legibility. Applied hour markers are edged by polished surrounds that elevate the overall appearance, while generous lume ensures legibility long after sunset. A date window at three o’clock keeps things practical without significantly interrupting the balance of the dial.
The anti-reflective sapphire crystal is another pleasant surprise at this price point, helping maintain excellent visibility outdoors. Then there’s the overall fit and finish.
I often find myself comparing watches like this against similarly priced microbrands, and Citizen consistently punches above its weight. Many independent brands would struggle to match this combination of finishing, specifications, movement technology and overall refinement without asking considerably more. And that’s perhaps the Promaster’s greatest strength. Nothing feels compromised.
Advertisement
Built to Be Used
Built to Be Used
Citizen fits the BN0266-07E with one of its BENEBiOL polyurethane straps, produced using plant-derived biomass materials. Fresh out of the box, it does feel a little stiff. But perhaps that’s fitting. The rigidity, combined with substantial hardware, quickly inspires confidence. It feels ready for years of swimming, paddling, boating or diving without complaint. You won’t mistake it for rubber or silicone. But it does feel like a traditional dive strap.
Three Ways to Dive
While the black-dial reference reviewed here will probably appeal to traditionalists, Citizen also offers two additional versions available in Canada and the US. One features a striking blue gradient dial paired with a matching blue bezel, while another combines a crisp white dial with the same black bezel seen here. Both retain the same case dimensions, Eco-Drive movement and ISO-certified 200-metre dive capability, allowing buyers to choose the personality that best suits them without sacrificing functionality.
Advertisement
Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40.6mm Diameter 11.5mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Case Back & Crown 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Black Dial Applied Markers Sword & Arrow Handset LumiNova |
| Movement | E118 Eco-Drive Powered by any light source, continuously and sustainably, eliminating the need to replace watch batteries |
| Strap | Polyurethane Strap with Steel Tang Buckle |
Citizen Promaster Dive BN0266-07E
Advertisement
Final Thoughts & Pricing
There is nothing revolutionary about the Citizen Promaster Dive BN0266-07E. And I don’t mean that as criticism. Quite the opposite. It knows exactly what it wants to be. Reliable. Comfortable. Easy to read. Easy to own. Ready for the water whenever you are.
Sometimes we become so captivated by increasingly imaginative dive watches that we forget how satisfying a well-executed classic can be. For me, that’s exactly what makes it appealing.
If you’re looking for one watch to throw on before heading to the cottage, the beach or simply enjoying a warm afternoon by the lake, it’s difficult to imagine needing much more than this.
The Citizen Promaster Dive BN0266-07E is available from the brand website and retails for $625 CAD.
Advertisement
About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
Please understand that using any links to products on this site might result in us making money.
Great review. Totally agree. They do have a fourth version available and it’s totally available only in Japan. I own two of the four available, the white and the orange bezel insert JDM. Wonderful understated watches. Unbelievably light and so worth it.
Thanks for the feedback! I really enjoyed my time with it. I also really like that JDM iteration. Cheers
The NY0040 is a classic. I get the same vibe from this dial.
All you need
I’ve done dives in multiple countries on 3 different continents and the most common watch I come across on the local dive outfit member’s wrist is a Citizen. Coincidence? Price to capability they make for a compelling tool.
I did my PADI certification with an instructor who had been diving for thirty years. When I asked him about watches, Citizen was the first brnad out of his mouth.
Why is the watch upside down or at an extreme angle in every picture? I want to see it face on.
We try to offer up something you don’t get in brand renders. Next time.