By Brent Robillard
No shrinking violet
Having handled many watches from across AWAKE’s previous collections, I’ve enjoyed following the brand’s progress. The dials are the main attraction, understandably, though the casework this year has made a particular impression on me. There’s a growing sense of care for the whole watch, and it makes each new release worth a closer look. And now they’ve done it again.
The new 38mm Sơn Mài Silver Leaf collection gives us four gradient dials, the redesigned case launched previously in the Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection, along with the brand’s new handwritten logo. On paper, this looks like a considered next step for a collection with plenty of character already.
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A craft that takes time
Introduced in 2024, Silver Leaf pairs silver-leaf gilding with traditional Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer. AWAKE developed the dials with a lacquer workshop in Hanoi, and that relationship remains central to their appeal for me. I admire the brand’s willingness to work with small groups of craftspeople whose skills bring something distinctive to a watch.
The process begins with delicate sheets of pure silver leaf applied to the dial. Approximately twelve layers of lacquer, coloured with natural pigments, are then built over that foundation. The lacquer itself comes from tree sap sourced in northern Vietnam, and each layer is individually sanded and polished. AWAKE says a single dial requires more than ten hours of handwork.
Knowing what goes into those layers gives me more to consider when looking at the finished surface. The silver underneath contributes to its reflections, while the lacquer brings colour and depth. For this release, the Vignette treatment moves from a lighter centre to a darker perimeter. It is a technique the brand has made use of in the past, including in the Golden Hour launched last year at the Toronto Timepiece Show, and the standard 39mm Silver Leaf Collection.
Java Green, Gentian Blue, and Indian Red enter the permanent collection, with production capped at 100 watches per colour annually, subject to the artisans’ capacity. Purple Viola is limited to 200 individually numbered pieces. The permanent colours can therefore return each year, while the workshop’s capacity sets the pace. That feels like a reasonable way to approach production when so much of the dial depends on handwork.
Bringing the details together
The redesigned 316L stainless steel case measures 38mm across and 44.75mm from lug to lug. It is 11.5mm thick including the sapphire crystal, or 10mm without it. Those dimensions should interest anyone who has been waiting for AWAKE’s Silver Leaf dial work in a slightly smaller case.
The specifications include an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and 100 metres of water resistance with a push-in crown. The 20mm lug spacing gives owners plenty of options for changing straps.
While the new logo has already graced new releases earlier this year, I have to reiterate how much I like the handwritten flourish. The lettering has the brandish of a human pen, an appropriate signature for a dial shaped by an artisan’s hand. It’s a small detail, though one that contributes quite a bit to the brand’s personality across collections.
In addition, AWAKE’s Chiaroscuro luminous construction returns for the hands and markers. Sculpted steel caps sit over blocks of BGW9 Super-LumiNova, letting the light emerge around them in a halo. It gives the watch another expression after dark.
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Beyond the dial
Inside is the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic calibre, offering a 68-hour power reserve. Its new tungsten rotor combines brushed, polished, and microblasted finishes, while engravings on the movement retaining ring refer to AWAKE’s commitment to rare crafts.
The straps continue that involvement of specialist makers. Handcrafted in France by Maisons Jean Rousseau and Bouveret, they use Alcantara or nubuck with rubberized calfskin linings. Curved quick-release spring bars and a Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle provide useful flexibility.
The collection launches today, November 9th, 2026, at €2,640 including VAT (approx. CA$3,870), with deliveries beginning in late November and a three-year international warranty.
What interests me most is the continuity here: the collaboration with the Hanoi workshop, the attention to casework, and the willingness to refine details around those labour-intensive dials. These latest releases just feel complete.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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