By Brent Robillard
Artisanal detail
I’ve always admired what AWAKE has been doing. Ever since I first encountered the brand last year, there has been a sense that they were approaching dial design from a different angle than many of their contemporaries. Their watches have never relied solely on specifications or familiar luxury cues to stand out. Instead, the focus has consistently been on material, texture, colour, and artisanal detail. With this new Sơn Mài Guilloché Main collection, however, AWAKE feels like it has taken a significant step forward.
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Key Features of the AWAKE Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection
A sneak peek
I had the opportunity to see the collection earlier this year while visiting the brand’s booth at Chronopolis during Watches and Wonders week in Geneva. Even in a room crowded with independent brands trying to compete for attention, these dials stopped people in their tracks. AWAKE has always been known for dial work that photographs well, but these new pieces operate differently in person. The surfaces shift constantly. Colours deepen and soften as you move the watch. Reflections appear almost suspended beneath the lacquer. The dials feel alive in a way that is difficult to communicate.
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Making a case for itself
The collection introduces a completely new 38mm case for the brand, and I think the proportions suit AWAKE extremely well. Previous collections featured predominantly polished cases with soft undulating curves, but here the architecture is much more pronounced and complex. The concave polished bezel gives the dial far more visual space, while the gently curved lugs have now been faceted with crisp chamfers. Case edges feature horizontal brushing, as well, which makes for a visually pleasing juxtaposition. The crown has also been reworked and now has a toothier appearance. The new screw-down mechanism provides for a bump in water resistance (100m), and it is signed with the brand’s new logo. We still get a curved sapphire crystal which brings a touch of mid-century influence into the overall profile. It wears elegantly, but it still feels contemporary.
Lost arts
What makes this collection especially interesting is the pairing of two artisanal techniques rarely seen together, let alone at this price point. AWAKE combines traditional hand-operated guilloché from the Italian Renzetti family workshop with Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer work, creating dials that have genuine depth and complexity. The guilloché patterns themselves are cut by hand using antique rose engines and straight-line machines, while the lacquer process involves multiple thin layers polished over time to create transparency and depth. The combined effect of these metiers d’art truly earns the watches their celestial monikers.
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The “Sunset” model was probably the one that drew me in most immediately. The drapé-moiré guilloché pattern creates flowing lines beneath pink, violet, and blue lacquer tones that genuinely resemble reflected evening light on water. It is colourful, certainly, but not loud. The shifting tones feel surprisingly natural.
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The “Alba” takes a warmer approach, using a helical guilloché pattern beneath fiery sunrise-inspired lacquer work. In direct light, the dial almost appears to glow from within. Meanwhile, the “Borealis” version may end up becoming the enthusiast favourite. Its radiant guilloché structure combined with cooler green and blue tones creates a dramatic effect reminiscent of the Northern Lights from whence it takes its name.
A complete package
One thing I appreciated while handling the watches was that AWAKE did not allow the dial work to completely overshadow the rest of the package. The finishing on the new case feels noticeably more mature than earlier collections. There is far more interplay between brushed and polished surfaces, and the transitions feel sharper and more deliberate. The watches feel fully resolved as a result.
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The heartbeat
Inside, the watches are powered by the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic calibre, offering a substantial 68-hour power reserve. It is also visible through the sapphire caseback, where AWAKE has added a newly designed tungsten rotor with a mix of brushed, polished, and micro-blasted finishing. Again, this feels consistent with the broader direction of the collection. More attention has clearly been paid to the overall ownership experience, not just the headline feature.
Jean Rousseau
The straps deserve mention as well. Produced by Jean Rousseau in Alcantara with rubber-lined calfskin undersides, they feel properly considered and suit the timepieces well. Combined with the new micro-adjustable buckle system, the watches sit comfortably on wrist and reinforce the slightly more refined character of the collection overall.
Final Thoughts
Perhaps the most surprising part of the release is the pricing. Each of the three models is limited to 200 pieces and priced at €2,650 (approx. $4,230 CAD) excluding taxes. Considering the amount of handwork involved in these dials, the use of La Joux-Perret movements, and the level of case refinement now present, the value proposition feels remarkably strong. AWAKE simply continues doing what it has been building toward for years: producing watches that feel genuinely distinct in an increasingly crowded enthusiast space. They produce art you can wear.
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Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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