Article by Marc Levesque; photography by Brent Robillard
Branch Sector: Vintage-inspired
Have you considered how interesting it would be to have watches inspired by vintage models from the past? What’s that? This concept has been done before? The market is already filled with vintage-inspired timepieces? That can’t possibly be true, can it? Say it ain’t so. All jokes aside, the market is genuinely filled with brands drawing inspiration from their back catalogues or new brands influenced by vintage models that inspired their founders. However, all are not made equal.
How often do you encounter a vintage-style field watch with a 42mm diameter case, especially considering that most watches from that era were only 34-36mm? What about a watch with a seconds subdial positioned too close to the center because the movement is only 25mm in diameter, yet the case measures 40mm? Details like these are important. In my opinion, when reproducing a watch from the past, it’s essential to get those small details right.
Creating a vintage-inspired watch today allows customers to own a timepiece they have long desired without concerns about performance or durability. These watches are made using modern techniques and materials. Brands like Praesidus Watch Co. understand this concept and even provide models in multiple sizes, maintaining authentic vintage proportions while also offering contemporary measurements. Another brand that captures this essence is Branch Horology.
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The founder of Branch is a genuine tinkerer. His fascination with mechanical watches began in his youth, leading him to buy vintage pieces at flea markets, restore them, and eventually resell them. As he grew older, he noticed that finding good vintage watches became increasingly difficult, especially as more people gained knowledge through the internet, making valuable finds rare. This prompted him to consider an alternative: why not create his own vintage-style watches?
Branch Horology focuses on creating actual vintage watches rather than just vintage-inspired designs. This might sound a bit surprising, but when you hold their new Sector watch, it truly feels like a genuine vintage timepiece. I can’t express it any other way; it genuinely gives you the sensation of holding something from a bygone era. It is the correct size, featuring an old-fashioned acrylic crystal, and it ticks loudly.
Key Features of the Timeless HMS 003
Case and materials
Let’s begin with the dimensions of the Branch Horology The Sector. The watch has a diameter of 36mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 42.5mm, and a height of 11mm, which includes the heavily domed crystal. Notably, if we exclude the crystal, the case is an impressive 7.5mm thick. While this measurement might not be essential, I think it’s worth highlighting. While the 316L stainless steel watch case appears standard, it features curved lugs and an utterly sterile snap-on case back. Once again, I remind you of my preference for minimal text. Bravo, Branch.
The blank case back allows the owner to personalize it with an engraving, a practice that was quite common in the past. Although the case is beautifully done, it’s important to note that the edges, particularly at the top of the lugs, are surprisingly sharp. This may be intentional, as the underside of the lugs does not match in this regard. The only polished area is the edge of the case back, which reflects the bezel’s finish on top. The 6mm crown is only 2mm thick but very easy to operate, as the teeth are pronounced and extend beyond the edge of the bottom of the case.
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Dial: It’s all about the hands
Let’s dive into what I truly love about this watch: its dial and hands. Underneath the 32.5mm diameter acrylic crystal lies a silver sector dial, which gives the watch its name. There is an outer railroad-style minute track that has a brushed finish. Surrounding this is a thin, flat-finished ring that encloses a thicker hour track, also brushed. At the center, there’s a flat-finished disc featuring a thin crosshair pattern, with the brand logo positioned at the 12 o’clock mark, reminiscent of the original Heuer shield.
My absolute favourite feature of this watch is its hands. Although I find the hour hand to be slightly long, I appreciate how it reaches the very edge of the hour track while the minute hand extends to the edge of its own track. This attention to detail pleases me immensely. I find it particularly appealing that the hands are made of flame-blued steel and have a subtle curve at their tips. The heavy dome of the crystal enhances this curvature. I appreciate this detail in authentic vintage pieces, which often feature domed dials. The hands would follow the curvature of the dial and the crystal to maintain a slim profile for the watches.
Movement
Powering The Sector watch is the Swiss-made Sellita SW210-1 manual-wind movement. This caliber operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and consists of 19 jewels, boasting Incabloc shock protection and a 42-hour power reserve. Based on the information available on their website, it appears that the watch uses the standard finish grade. While this movement may not be particularly attractive, it is known for its reliability and robustness. The SW210-1 is essentially Sellita’s version of the ETA 2801-2, with the added benefit of two additional jewels.
I timed our review sample’s accuracy while positioned in various orientations: +5 seconds per day when face up, -4 seconds when face down, -8 seconds when crown up, and +1 seconds when crown down. These results are pretty impressive, especially considering this watch is not chronometer-certified. What I appreciate most about this movement—perhaps due to the case size—is its loudness. Listening to it tick on my wrist brings me pure joy as I type this all out.
Strap
We experience our environment through our five senses. So far, we have explored sight, touch, hearing, and now smell. The Branch Sector arrived on a beautiful grey calfskin strap handmade by Veblenist in Chicago. Founded in 2017, Veblenist manufactures watch accessories that epitomize quality craftsmanship and materials. This leather strap has an exquisite smell, reminiscent of a fine leather jacket. I love it! It is also very thin and supple, perfect for a vintage piece. It is 19mm between the lugs, yes, an odd size, but perfectly proportioned, and tapers down to 15.5mm at the signed tang buckle.
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Now, if you expect us to engage our sense of taste, I must forewarn you that we at The Calibrated Wrist do not consume timepieces in this manner. Perhaps other reviewers eat their watches, but we find them difficult to digest, and that also makes them difficult to return. In all seriousness, returning this will indeed be quite difficult—not due to gastrointestinal digestion but because I have grown accustomed to its charm sitting on my desk.
Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 36mm Diameter 42.5mm Lug to Lug 19mm Lug width 10.5mm Thick Snap Case Back 30m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Two-tone Silver Sector Dial /w Matte Lacquer Finish Printed Index Blued Sabre Hands |
| Movement | Sellita SW210-1 Manual Wound 19 Jewels 28 800vph 42-Hour Power Rewerve |
| Strap | Veblenist Handmade Leather Strap /w Tang Buckle |
Branch Sector Watch
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Final Thoughts and Pricing
Unfortunately, I have become accustomed to larger watches, and I attribute this to my watch-collecting experiences from the late 1990s to the early 2000s. This preference has made it challenging for me to appreciate smaller watches; however, I can certainly admire a well-crafted, truly vintage-inspired timepiece. Given today’s trends, I believe such a watch would likely be quite popular among contemporary collectors.
I do find, however, with so many brands offering a variety of features, materials, components, and technology in the sub-$1000 category, that this watch is positioned at the upper end of its price bracket. That being said, many of these brands are highly focused on modern sports and field watches. In the realm of authentic vintage reissues, Branch stands out. If that’s what you’re seeking, no other watch compares to The Sector in terms of its feel, appearance, sound, and scent. It might be precisely what you’re looking for. However, you’re on your own if you decide to eat it, as it may void the warranty.
Pricing & Availability
The Branch Sector retails for $920 CAD. For more information, please consult the brand website.
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About the author
Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.
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