By Brent Robillard
Not your average watch brand
Having encountered Micromilspec at three different watch shows now, one thing is clear—you have to wait your turn. Even at their double-wide corner booth at the Vancouver Timepiece Show, brand representatives were beset by enthusiasts all weekend. Sometimes three and four people deep. I might also add, they are well worth the wait.
Part of that attention comes down to the fact that Micromilspec does not really behave like most microbrands. Their watches often emerge from collaborations with military units, rescue squadrons, and special operations groups, carrying with them a sense of authenticity that can be difficult to manufacture. But there is also another side to the brand. One that occasionally drifts into something stranger, more playful, and far less restrained. Their ongoing collaboration with designer James Thompson—better known as Black Badger—falls squarely into that category.
Key Features of the Micromilspec x Black Badger Broken Hour GMT
Time Wars
The new Micromilspec x Black Badger Broken Hour GMT certainly does not look like a conventional GMT watch. At first glance, it appears almost damaged. The hour hand is fractured. The GMT hand looks bent and broken. The date window seems to have exploded outward from the dial. Yet all of these details are deliberate, tied to an elaborate fictional universe built around Black Badger’s comic-book-inspired “Time Wars” storyline.
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Second time around
This is not the first time the two parties have worked together. Elements first introduced with Project Sabotage return here through the use of vivid orange accents, aggressive textures, and a sense that the watch has survived something catastrophic. The white dial, orange chapter ring, and bright orange rubber strap push the aesthetic even further this time around. It is loud, slightly chaotic, and very much in keeping with Black Badger’s broader design language. Fortunately, Micromilspec has enough discipline on the technical side to keep the entire thing from descending into gimmickry.
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A proper Micromilspec GMT
The rest of the specifications remain appropriately robust. The 42mm microblasted stainless steel case features a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, QuadGrip dive bezel, and 200 metres of water resistance. Super-LumiNova is applied throughout the dial and hands, while buyers can choose between the standard orange rubber strap or an optional matching microblasted steel bracelet.
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A good story
Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the release is that Micromilspec and Black Badger have leaned completely into the storytelling side of the collaboration. Every watch arrives with a full 12-page printed comic book illustrated by Norwegian comic artist Henri, expanding the Broken Hour narrative and explaining how the watch ended up in such rough shape in the first place. That might sound excessive on paper, but having now seen a few of these Micromilspec collaborations in person, I suspect it will appeal strongly to the same enthusiasts currently crowding their booths at shows. Watch collectors tend to enjoy a good story almost as much as they enjoy the watches themselves.
Final Thoughts & Pricing
The Micromilspec x Black Badger Broken Hour will be sold through a one-time 24-hour ordering window opening May 29 at 18:00 CET and closing May 30 at 18:00 CET. Once the window closes, the watch will not return to production. Pricing begins at USD $1,950 on the orange rubber strap and USD $2,200 on the matching bracelet.
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