Ahead by a century
If you have never been to Geneva during Watches and Wonders, then perhaps you do not realize the sheer scale of the event. Of course, the fair is centred in the enormous Palexo Buidling, but there are coinciding fairs and events all over the city—not the least of which include Time to Watches at HEAD, or the more than forty independent brands holding court at the Beau Rivage on the Quai du Mont Blanc. That’s where I met with DELMA, who are celebrating their centenary this year with the DELMA 1924 Tourbillon.
Headquartered in Lengnau, DELMA has been part of the Swiss watch industry, and in continuous operation, since 1924. Their watches have a reputation for robust manufacturing and reliability, and cater to many sporting pursuits.
Founded by two brothers, Adolf and Albert Gilomen, the brand has always remained a family business, despite changing hands in 1966 and again in 1996—to its current owner and chairman, Fred Leibundgut. It was with Fred’s son, Andreas, that I met to discuss the new tourbillon.
Key Features of the DELMA 1924 Tourbillon
The complication
The DELMA 1924 tourbillon positions the escapement and regulating organ within a cage that revolves 360° every 60 seconds. As this cage rotates, any positional errors are negated. A hand affixed to the cage also serves to indicate the running seconds.
DELMA enlisted the expertise of Olivier Mory, Co-founder of BCP Tourbillons, to develop the movement. Olivier, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, worked with DELMA to ensure that the calibre was 100% Swiss Made. Finishing was undertaken by Ora Temps, Delémont, and CV Décor, in Le Locle. The geartrain was produced by Gimmel Rouages in Villiers. And the escapement was built by Atokalpa of Alle. The calibre is equipped with a transmission mechanism from Tavadec in Tavannes, and the screws and shock absorption system come from KIF Parechoc in Le Brassus. Finally, the barrel was fashioned in Bienne by Générale Ressorts.
The Calibre DT100.01 is a hand-wound movement that promises an incredible power reserve of 105 hours (four-and-a-half days). It is equipped with a variable-inertia balance for superior precision and is shock resistant up to 5000 G. The DT100.01 is also comprised of many non-magnetic components such as the alloy hairspring and Glucydur balance wheel, rendering it anti-magnetic up to 2000 gauss.
The baseplate is decorated in perlage; the bridges, in Côtes de Genève with golden script. The screws are blued, and the movement has a dark grey tone thanks to the ruthenium treatment.
While this may be the brand’s first proprietary movement, Andreas assures me that it is a sign of things to come for DELMA.
Case & Dial
The DELMA 1924 does not look like most other tourbillons. Remaining true to the brand’s sporting roots, the watch has a much more athletic appearance than a classically styled tourbillon. It features a textured, sable black dial with baton-styled hands that are finished in palladium nickel plating, and inset BGW9 Super-LumiNova. The applied hour markers have been designed to match.
The 316L stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. It is 14mm thick with a 22mm lug width. The different surfaces have been uniformly brushed, but for a polished, beveled edge running the length of both the top and bottom of the case. The screw down crown rests between partial protectors and has a fine-toothed knurling for easy manipulation. It also helps the watch provide 200m of water resistance.
The timepiece comes with both a stainless-steel bracelet and an Italian leather strap. The former features a deployant clasp; the latter a tang buckle. Each has been fitted with quick release spring bars.
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 41mm Diameter 47.5mm Lug to Lug 14mm Thick 22mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Case Back 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Black Textured Dial Applied Markers Baton Handset BGW9 Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Caliber DT100.01 Hand Wound 19 Jewels 21 600bph 105-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Steel Bracelet, or Italian Leather Strap |
DELMA 1924 Tourbillon
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Final Thoughts
The DELMA 1924 Toubillon looks and feels like a robust sports watch. With its screw down crown and bold tonneau styled case, it would be easy to overlook as a tourbillon, were it not for the smoothly integrated porthole at six on the dial. Nonetheless, the watch remains true to its roots with stark legibility and a solid water resistance rating. It is at once handsome and austere, with a clean and simple design, juxtaposed against the luxurious display of the tourbillon cage, escapement, and regulating organ performing their intricate dance. Inaugurated to mark a momentous occasion, the DELMA 1924 Tourbillon manages to honour its past and look with hope into its future.
Pricing & Availability
The DELMA 1924 Tourbillon is limited to 100 pieces only and retails currently for CHF 12,500 / USD 13,900. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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Out of my price league, but it must be the best looking tourbillon I’ve seen recently, great specs, not oversized, and a restrained yet very attractive look. Thanks for sharing.
I think you’re right. Tourbillons can be unweildy. This one is not. Very restrained.