By Brent Robillard
I have a confession to make. I really, really like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. And, if I’m being perfectly candid, that bothers me a little.
The first time I tried one on was during my first visit to Kaplans Auktioner in Stockholm in 2025. It was a Ref. 5711/1A-001, the steel Nautilus that had become familiar well beyond watch collecting. I’d seen enough celebrity wrist shots to have formed an opinion before I’d ever handled one.
The quintessential hype watch.
I wanted to be unimpressed. The manufactured scarcity. The fixation on resale prices. The sense that owning one had become an achievement in itself. Somewhere along the way, I’d allowed all of that to colour my opinion of the watch.
Then I put it on. And, damn, if it wasn’t fantastic.
Photographs hadn’t prepared me for how it wore. The broad case and those distinctive ears flanking the dial suggested something more cumbersome. On wrist, though, the case and integrated bracelet settled into place with a comfort I hadn’t expected. I’d spent so much time thinking about what the Nautilus represented that I’d barely considered whether I might enjoy wearing it.
Not long after that visit, Andrew McUtchen joined us on the Time2Calibrate podcast. I remember him talking about selling his Rolex GMT-Master II Batman, partly because of the assumptions people made about why he owned it, and regretting the decision afterwards. That stayed with me. I understood how the reputation of a watch could get in the way of enjoying it.
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Enter the 3800
When I returned to Kaplans this October, I had the opportunity to try another Nautilus. This time, it was a steel Ref. 3800/1 with a certificate dated December 1984.
And I think I might like it even more.
Introduced in 1981, the 3800 offered a smaller alternative to the original Ref. 3700 Jumbo, which had arrived five years earlier. It retained the porthole-inspired case of Gérald Genta’s original design, along with the integrated bracelet and horizontally embossed dial. There is plenty of family resemblance; the difference becomes much more apparent when you put it on.
Kaplans lists this example at 37 × 39 mm. On my 6¾-inch wrist, the smaller proportions made immediate sense. I’d already been surprised by how comfortably the 5711 wore, but the 3800 felt closer to the size I would choose for myself. I could enjoy the shape of the case without wishing for any more of it.
The bracelet is a large part of that appeal. Its lines continue those of the case, and the transition feels natural on wrist. The broad outline that can dominate a photograph becomes much less imposing once the watch is on. That was what won me over with the 5711, and the 3800 gave me the same pleasure in a more compact package.
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A different kind of Nautilus
Inside this example is Patek Philippe’s automatic Calibre 335 SC, with a date display and central seconds. That seconds hand distinguishes it from the original 3700, which displayed the hours, minutes, and date without a seconds hand. The catalogue also confirms a sapphire crystal and an integrated original bracelet with a folding clasp.
Those details help place the watch, but my preference came down to how it felt. The proportions suited me, and I liked seeing the familiar Nautilus design at this scale. A design that turns 50 this year still managed to surprise me when I encountered another version of it.
I also brought less baggage to the 3800. It is still a Nautilus, and I’m under no illusion that buying one would remove me from the world of expensive, highly sought-after watches. But sitting there at Kaplans, I found myself thinking much more about whether I preferred its dimensions than about who else might own one.
That seems a healthier starting point for enjoying a watch.
An unrequited love affair
Of course, there’s one small problem. I can’t afford one. Barring a rather dramatic change in circumstances, I don’t imagine that will change anytime soon.
Still, I’m glad I had the chance to wear it. Handling these two Nautilus references has made me reconsider an opinion I’d formed largely at a distance. The hype had annoyed me enough that I wanted the watch to disappoint. It didn’t oblige.
Would I choose the 3800 over the 5711? Having spent time with both, I think I might. The smaller proportions and vintage character appeal to me, and I can picture wearing it quite happily without needing to explain the choice to anyone.
For now, though, this remains an unrequited love affair. Which is probably just as well. I have enough expensive hobbies already.
This watch is listed for Kaplans Auktioner’s Important Watches sale on November 14, 2026. See the auction listing for current pricing and condition information.
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About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Take Two articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of vintage and preowned watches and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise.
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