By Brent Robillard
Vintage Rolex
The first thing I look forward to when arriving at Kaplans each October is seeing the people. Our friends Sanna and Marlene, Daniel and Georgios, make the long trip to Stockholm worthwhile. The watches are a fairly convincing reason to stay.
This year, the collection set aside for our photography included some wonderful pieces, both vintage and contemporary. One that stood out immediately was a Rolex Submariner 5513 from 1964. Familiar shape. Beautiful dial. The sort of watch that can derail a perfectly sensible shooting schedule.
Look, I don’t own a Sub–or any Rolex for that matter–but there is something about an early Submariner that makes me forget my usual checklist. Power reserve, clasp adjustment, crystal material—all those things we debate when a new watch arrives suddenly seem less pressing. Good design has a way of doing that.
Omega Speedmaster 145.012: Why Collectors Keep Coming Back to the Calibre 321
Advertisement
Key Features of the Rolex Submariner 5513 “Gilt Dial”
“Gilt”
Introduced in 1962, the 5513 remained in production until around 1990. That is an extraordinary run for a single reference, although its appearance evolved along the way. This example belongs to the early gilt-dial years, before matte dials and white lettering changed the character of the watch in the mid-1960s. It captures a formative version of a design that would become familiar far beyond diving circles.
“Gilt” deserves a little explanation. On these vintage Rolex dials, the gold-coloured lettering comes from the metal beneath the black surface. A galvanic process leaves the lettering exposed, and a clear lacquer gives the dial its glossy finish. That construction produces a particular depth and warmth, with the metallic text responding to light beneath the gloss. It is a substantial part of the appeal of an early gilt dial Submariner—and something worth looking for in close-up photographs.
Advertisement
“Metres-first”
“Metres-first” is considerably easier to explain. The dial reads “200m=660ft,” putting the metric measurement ahead of its imperial equivalent. Later dials reversed that order. Both describe the same nominal depth rating, but collectors use the distinction to help identify different periods of production. Metres-first lettering also continued into the matte-dial era, so the term does not automatically mean gilt. Watch collecting: a hobby in which the order of two measurements can become an entire conversation.
Perfect proportions
Kaplans dates this particular watch to the third quarter of 1964, supported by the “III.64” marking inside its case back. It houses the automatic calibre 1530, with a steel case listed at 39mm, an acrylic crystal, and an Oyster bracelet. The 5513 was the non-chronometer Submariner, which helps explain the pleasing restraint of its dial: just the depth rating and Submariner name below the hands.
Those proportions are part of the attraction. An early Submariner offers a less substantial presence on the wrist than its modern descendants. The relatively slender lugs, simple dial, and acrylic crystal give the familiar design a softer character. For my tastes, this is a particularly appealing expression of a sports watch: purposeful, readable, and easy to imagine wearing every day.
Timeless design
And that is what stays with me. Here is a mechanical instrument built more than sixty years ago, made to be worn and used, that can still fulfil its original purpose. Continued service naturally depends on care and maintenance, but the underlying achievement remains impressive. Its design has held up just as well. Arguably, time has made it even more beautiful.
Advertisement
The Speedmaster Heritage
The watch appears as lot 113 in Kaplans’ Important Watches auction on November 14, with an estimate of SEK 255,000 (approx. CA$35,000) before buyer’s fees. But it will most certainly go for more. For collectors, its early dial configuration gives it particular significance. For me, the attraction starts somewhere simpler: I walked into a room full of wonderful watches, and this was one I wanted to pick up.
Advertisement
Check out The Ultimate Watch Buying Guide
About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Take Two articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of vintage and preowned watches and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise.
Please understand that using any links to products on this site might result in us making money.