A surprising appointment in Geneva introduces a three-hand Chronomaster with a ceramic dial and an aspirational price tag
By Brent Robillard
A strong impression
Last week in Geneva, I saw some of the most creative horological wonders on the planet. The salons and ateliers around the city were full of watches that could consume an afternoon of conversation before anyone thought to ask the time. There was also plenty of unobtainium. After a few days, your understanding of what constitutes an expensive watch requires recalibration.
Between those appointments, we visited more affordable independent brands and made one particularly surprising stop with Zenith. The LVMH manufacture had taken up temporary residence at L’Icebergues, where it showed us the new Chronomaster Solo Sport. Among all that elaborate watchmaking, a three-hand sports watch made a stronger impression than I expected.
I already have a soft spot for Zenith. The Chronomaster Revival remains one of my favourite releases in recent years, and several of us from The Calibrated Wrist joined the brand at Palexpo last year for a cocktail party celebrating its 160th anniversary. There is a great deal to admire in that history, particularly the El Primero and the devotion it inspires.
A complicated backdrop
The celebrations have coincided with questions about Zenith’s position within LVMH. Earlier this year, the Financial Times reported that the group had denied rumours of a sale. The uncertainty deserves acknowledgement, although speculation about financial strain cannot establish the condition of Zenith’s books.
Benoît de Clerck has also described an expanded movement-supply role for the manufacture. In a March 2025 Europa Star interview, the CEO discussed a shared three-hand movement platform for the group, alongside continued production of Zenith watches. That offers another source of business and draws on longstanding expertise. It does not, by itself, demonstrate that Zenith cannot sustain its own collection.
The Solo Sport gives us something more concrete to discuss. It is an excellent timepiece, well spec’ed and well finished, with an asking price that puts considerable pressure on both those qualities.
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The chocolate one
Of the three colours we saw, the chocolate version was my favourite. Its dark textured dial and ceramic bezel work particularly well with the warm metallic tones of the hands and applied markers. The combination gives the watch a richness that suits its polished surfaces without requiring a precious-metal case.
Ceramic is used for all three dial colours. Black receives a polished finish, while white has a sunray finish and a contrasting black bezel. Each carries an engraved pattern of repeated Z shapes set at 45 degrees. Zenith connects the motif to the rhythm of its high-frequency movement. I am more interested in the texture itself, which gives the broad dial enough detail to hold attention without the familiar chronograph registers.
There is still quite a lot happening. Faceted hands and applied indexes sit above that pattern, and the densely divided “shark tooth” minute track adds another layer around the edge. The high-frequency emblem also appears in the seconds-hand counterweight. Anyone hoping for an entirely restrained dial should look closely before deciding. For me, the chocolate combination brings those elements together most attractively.
The three date models place their window at three o’clock. Zenith also offers a fourth reference in black without a date, giving collectors a choice that is often missing from a launch collection. Hands and hour markers use Super-LumiNova C1.
A sports watch with an El Primero
The stainless steel case measures 40mm across, with crown guards surrounding a screw-down crown. Water resistance is 200 metres, and the unidirectional ceramic bezel carries an elapsed-time scale. Those features invite comparison with familiar dive watches, even though Zenith presents the Solo Sport primarily as a versatile everyday watch.
Removing the chronograph also changes the character of the Chronomaster. The case loses its pushers, the dial opens up, and timing duties move to the bezel. It is a useful arrangement for the everyday intervals that many of us actually measure.
Inside is the automatic El Primero 3620, derived from the 3600 chronograph calibre. It runs at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz, and provides 60 hours of power reserve. A silicon escapement, hacking seconds for precise setting, and bidirectional winding through an openworked star-shaped rotor round out the movement specification.
The El Primero name on a three-hand watch will take some getting used to for collectors who associate it with the automatic chronograph introduced in 1969. Here, Zenith places the emphasis on its high-frequency heritage. The seconds hand advances in ten increments per second, providing a visible connection to that beat rate. Frequency alone, of course, does not tell us how accurately an individual watch has been regulated.
The bracelet is a three-link steel design fitted with Zenith’s ZENCLASP folding clasp. Its tool-free adjustment provides 10mm of extension in 2.5mm increments, accessed by lifting a secondary cover. A separate safety cover secures the clasp. It is a welcome provision on a watch intended for regular wear, particularly when a warm afternoon changes the fit of a steel bracelet. It is an intelligent, tactile design, and frankly a pleasure to use.
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Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40mm Diameter 46mm Lug to Lug 11.9mm Thick Unidirectional Ceramic Bezel /w Elapsed-Time Scale Screw-Down Crown with Crown Guards 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Ceramic Dial /w Engraved Z Pattern Applied Hour Markers Super-LumiNova C1 on Hands and Markers Date at 3 O’clock (for 3 models) |
| Movement | Automatic El Primero 3620 36,000vph / 5Hz 60-Hour Power Reserve Silicon Escapement Hacking Seconds Bidirectional Winding Openworked Star-Shaped Rotor |
| Bracelet | Three-Link Stainless Steel ZENCLASP Folding Clasp with Safety Cover Tool-Free Adjustment: 10mm in 2.5mm Increments |
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport
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The price is the challenge
Canadian list pricing is $15,300 CAD for the date models and $13,600 CAD for the black no-date version. The supplied launch prices are CHF 9,900 and CHF 8,900 respectively. That’s $10,900 USD and 9,800 USD. Availability began on September 2, 2026, through Zenith boutiques, its online store, and authorized retailers.
That places the Solo Sport well above mainstream steel offerings in the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M and Tudor Black Bay families. Both bring substantial dive-watch associations, and Omega has the additional advantage of James Bond. Zenith has tremendous watchmaking history of its own, though the Solo Sport will have to establish its particular place within it.
Early coverage reflects that challenge. My own impression is largely positive, though I share the concern about the company it keeps at this price.
I enjoyed the Solo Sport on its own merits. The chocolate ceramic combination has real appeal, and the movement gives an otherwise familiar category something worth examining. In a week crowded with extraordinary watches, I was pleased to find myself thinking about this one. Whether that interest becomes a purchase will depend on how much a collector values this particular expression of Zenith. Admittedly, at $15,300 CAD, it needs to be a fairly committed affection.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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