In recent years, the name Blancpain has been appearing more frequently in watchmaking discussions. Between the Fifty Fathoms and high-visibility collaborations such as the Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms, the brand has regained attention well beyond the circle of purists. But its most authentic identity does not lie there: it lies in the Villeret. The new Villeret 38 mm does not change the history of the collection, but rather brings it back into sharper focus. It is a watch that does not attempt to rewrite Blancpain’s language, but instead moves closer to what it has always been: proportion, balance, and restraint.
The Villeret has always been an exercise in coherence rather than visible innovation. Over time, it has undergone slow, almost imperceptible evolutions, while remaining faithful to a certain idea of classical watchmaking. The move to 38 mm fits within this logic: it does not replace the 40 mm, but expands the range toward a more restrained size, which is increasingly favoured in today’s market. The profile remains slim and consistent with the character of the line. The configurations remain essential: three hands, date, in steel or red gold.
The most visible novelty is the salmon soleil dial, which shifts with the light, moving between warmer copper tones and softer, more subdued shades. Around it, careful attention has been given to detail. The dark gold Roman numerals seem almost absorbed into the dial, the JB monogram at 12 o’clock remains discreet, almost disappearing at first glance, while the date is slightly more prominent than in the past, yet still within a tightly controlled balance. The thinner hands introduce a greater sense of visual precision, without breaking the aesthetic continuity of the collection.
A movement consistent with the Villeret philosophy
Inside, the watch is powered by the Calibre 1150, one of the most representative automatic movements in the Maison’s lineup. The silicon balance spring improves resistance to magnetic fields and enhances rate stability. The power reserve reaches approximately 100 hours, an autonomy that places it among the more generous offerings in its category. Through the sapphire caseback, the gold oscillating weight can be observed, finished according to haute horlogerie standards. It is perhaps one of the most coherent expressions of the Villeret philosophy: the technical side is neither hidden nor overstated. The quick-change strap system without tools introduces a practical modern element, without altering the classical structure of the watch.
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A story that begins long before
To understand the Villeret, one cannot start in the present. In 1983, at a time when Swiss watchmaking was yielding to the pressure of quartz, Blancpain took the opposite direction. It introduced a complete calendar with moon phases in just 34 mm, a size that was almost unthinkable for its time and for such a complication. It was not only a technical choice, but a statement of intent: to demonstrate that the mechanical watch was not a relic of the past, but an object still capable of carrying meaning, culture, and craftsmanship. From that decision emerged the entire Villeret language: the double-stepped bezel, the understated dial design, and the restrained approach to classical complications.
The Villeret 38 mm does not introduce a new idea of the collection, but reinforces the existing one. Three hands, date, restrained proportions, and a well-established movement. Within this idea lies perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Blancpain project: the belief that modernity does not always need to come through disruption, but can also emerge through a slow, coherent refinement of what already exists.
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About the author
Silvia Bonfanti, known as “The Classy Wrist,” is an Italian journalist specializing in watchmaking, a press officer and co-organizer of Watches of Italy, the leading Italian event dedicated to independent watchmaking held in Milan. She writes about watches, lifestyle and other topics, approaching them with a refined, attentive and critical perspective that goes beyond appearances. You can follow her on Instagram.
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