By Brent Robillard
A touch of gold
It is difficult to rank new releases from AWAKE, because each one seems to outdo the last. Case in point: the Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue.
I first saw the new Frosted iteration during Watches and Wonders week in Geneva, when AWAKE was displaying prototypes of several new collections, including the recently released Sơn Mài Guilloché Main. That watch introduced a refined 38 mm case that immediately felt like a step forward for the young French independent. The proportions were cleaner, the polished bezel better framed the dial, and the shorter lugs made it wear beautifully on the wrist. I left Geneva thinking the new case might be the biggest story.
I was wrong.
The new Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue takes centre stage almost entirely because of its dial. After having seen it in person, I think it may be my favourite AWAKE dial to date—and considering what the brand has produced over the past few years, that’s saying something.
Key Features of the AWAKE Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue
Gold where silver once lived
AWAKE has built much of its reputation around traditional Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer work. Rather than treating the dial as a flat surface, the company works with artisans in Vietnam who build it layer by layer using natural lacquer, pigments, precious metal leaf, sanding, and polishing techniques that date back centuries. Each dial requires roughly 15 hours of hand work.
Previous Frosted models used silver leaf beneath translucent lacquer. Royal Blue replaces that silver with pure gold leaf, and the difference is immediately noticeable. It would have been easy for the gold to overwhelm the design. Instead, it gives the dial warmth.
The deep blue lacquer shifts from almost navy to lighter sapphire tones depending on the light, while the gold appears suspended beneath the surface rather than sitting on top of it. The effect makes it seem as though the dial glows from within, with the gold catching light in unexpected ways as the watch moves across the wrist.
Because every layer is applied and finished by hand, no two dials are exactly alike. That individuality has always been part of AWAKE’s appeal, but the addition of gold leaf gives this version an extra level of visual richness with.
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The new case
As with the brand’s Sơn Mài Guilloché Main collection, the Royal Blue is set in a new 38 mm case that is 44.75 mm lug-to-lug, and only 11.5 mm thick including the crystal. The polished bezel is slimmer than before, allowing more of the dial to dominate. The slightly domed sapphire crystal complements the organic texture beneath it, while brushed case sides keep the polished surfaces from taking over. The gently curved lugs also help the watch hug the wrist in comfort.
The crown has also been redesigned. It’s now screw-down, increasing water resistance to 100 metres, and carries AWAKE’s new emblem. Practical improvements like these are easy to overlook, but they make the watch feel more complete as an everyday piece rather than as a simple dress watch.
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Small refinements throughout
Royal Blue also reintroduces AWAKE’s new handwritten logo. The flowing script sits comfortably beside the handcrafted character of the dial. Legibility remains excellent thanks to polished applied indices and hands filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova. During daylight hours, the polished steel caps keep the lume discreet, while darkness reveals a bright, even glow without interrupting the dial’s overall appearance.
Inside is the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with a healthy 68-hour power reserve. It’s become an increasingly popular calibre among independent brands thanks to its reliability and modern specifications. AWAKE complements it with a newly designed tungsten rotor visible through the sapphire caseback.
The watch is paired with a blue Alcantara strap produced by Jean Rousseau, complete with a micro-adjustable pin buckle.
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Final thoughts
The Royal Blue feels like a natural continuation of that story rather than a dramatic departure from it. The addition of pure gold leaf simply makes an already compelling dial even better. Combined with the refined new case that debuted earlier this year, this is, in my opinion, the most complete AWAKE release yet.
Availability & Pricing
Limited to 200 pieces and priced at €3,000 (including taxes and shipping), the Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue continues to occupy a rather unusual place in independent watchmaking. There are certainly other artisanal dials available. There are very few, however, that combine traditional Vietnamese lacquer work, thoughtful contemporary design, and this level of finishing at anything close to this price.
Please visit the brand website for more details.
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