by Brent Robillard
More than the sum of its tool watches
I have to admit something. When I think of YEMA, my mind almost immediately goes to tool watches. The Superman, the Flygraf, the Rallygraf—these are the pieces that have come to define the French brand for many collectors, myself included. My own affection for the Superman is well documented. It remains one of my favourite modern dive watches.
The Granvelle Renaissance reminded me that YEMA has become something much broader than that.
French Manufacture
Over the past few years, the company has been steadily transforming itself into a genuine French manufacture, investing heavily in in-house movement development while looking increasingly toward its own cultural heritage for inspiration. Rather than borrowing familiar Swiss design language, YEMA seems intent on telling distinctly French stories. The Granvelle Renaissance may be one of its strongest examples yet.
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Key Features of the YEMA Granvelle Renaissance
New case size
I spent time with the Salmon version, and it is easily the most eye-catching of the three available colours. Alongside blue and black, the warm salmon dial brings out the architecture of the design in a way that immediately draws your attention. However, this isn’t a watch that relies on colour alone. There is far more happening beneath the surface.
The original Granvelle was already an interesting departure for YEMA. This new Renaissance edition feels less like a replacement and more like a careful refinement. The most obvious change is the resized case. At 37.5 mm across and only 8.5 mm thick, the dimensions might initially sound conservative, but they tell only part of the story.
Thanks to the broad dial opening and softly squared cushion case, the watch wears much larger than the specifications suggest. On my wrist, it felt closer to many modern 39 mm dress watches, while remaining noticeably slimmer and more comfortable under a cuff. The 46.3 mm lug-to-lug length strikes an equally comfortable balance, making this one of those watches that seems to disappear until you catch it in the light.
Speaking of light, the dial is unquestionably the star of the show.
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Dial
YEMA describes it as a four-level construction. And every layer serves a visual purpose. The outer minute track frames a recessed hour ring before your eye is naturally pulled toward the centre medallion. That central stamped guilloché pattern is taken directly from the Renaissance ceiling motifs found inside Besançon’s Granvelle Palace, home to the city’s Museum of Time.
It is an unusual source of inspiration, but one that feels entirely appropriate. Rather than reproducing architecture literally, YEMA has distilled it into geometry. The repeating pattern catches light differently as the watch moves, creating shifting highlights across the centre of the dial without ever becoming distracting. The effect is surprisingly dynamic.
The contrasting textures between each dial level prevent the colour from becoming flat. Applied faceted indexes, polished hands, and a neatly proportioned small seconds register at six o’clock complete the composition. There is a lot to look at, but the dial never feels busy. Everything has room to breathe. I also found myself appreciating the smaller details.
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Details
The newly designed crown echoes the geometry of the case rather than simply disappearing into it. It is an unusual shape, but one that remains easy to grip while winding the movement. Likewise, the alternating brushed and polished surfaces across the bezel, case sides, and lugs reward closer inspection. YEMA clearly spent time refining the finishing rather than simply shrinking the existing Granvelle.
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Strap
The new leather strap deserves mention as well. It tapers elegantly from 18 mm to 14 mm, giving the watch an appropriately dressy profile without feeling delicate. The newly designed pin buckle mirrors the cushion shape of the case, another small detail that reinforces the overall design rather than feeling like an afterthought. Together, the strap and slim case make this an exceptionally comfortable watch to wear for extended periods.
Micro-rotor
Inside is YEMA’s manufacture CMM.29 micro-rotor calibre with a small seconds complication. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement features rhodium-plated bridges decorated with a sunray Côtes de Genève finish that produces an attractive shimmer as the watch moves. The tungsten micro-rotor sits neatly within the movement architecture, allowing the entire watch to remain just 8.5 mm thick while still delivering an impressive 70-hour power reserve.
YEMA also quotes an accuracy of -3/+7 seconds per day, putting the movement firmly into chronometer territory without formal certification. More importantly, this continues to demonstrate just how serious YEMA has become about developing its own manufacture calibres. A few years ago, this simply wasn’t part of the conversation surrounding the brand. Today, it has become one of its defining strengths.
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Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 37.5mm Diameter 46.3mm Lug to Lug 8.25mm Thick /w Crystal 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Case Back 50m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Stamped Guilloché Dial Applied Markers Dauphine Handset Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | YEMA Manufacture CMM.29 Micro-rotor -3/+7 secs/day 33 Jewels 28,800vph 70-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Leather Strap with Pin Buckle |
YEMA Granvelle Renaissance
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Final Thoughts
Perhaps what impressed me most, however, is how cohesive the Granvelle Renaissance feels. Too often, heritage-inspired watches borrow decorative elements without giving much thought to how they work together. Here, the architecture informs nearly every aspect of the design—from the dial textures and layered construction to the case profile, crown, and even the buckle. Nothing feels arbitrary.
As someone who has long associated YEMA with dive watches and rugged everyday pieces, I found the Granvelle Renaissance refreshingly unexpected. It demonstrates a different side of the company—one that is increasingly comfortable exploring French history, architecture, and manufacture watchmaking without abandoning the practical sensibilities that made many collectors appreciate the brand in the first place.
The Salmon version would be my pick of the collection. It best showcases the intricate dial work while giving the watch a distinctive personality that separates it from many similarly sized dress watches currently on the market.
The Granvelle Renaissance doesn’t replace the Superman in my mind. Rather, it expands what I now expect from YEMA. If this is the direction the brand intends to pursue alongside its excellent tool watches, I’m looking forward to seeing where it goes next.
Pricing & Availability
You can purchase the YEMA Granvelle Renaissance directly from the brand website for €1,990 (approximately CAD $3,150 at current exchange rates).
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About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
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I like that the brand is more than a dive watch company, but I still prefer the Superman and the Skin Diver collections
The Superman is one of my favourite case shapes. Thanks for stopping in!