By Brent Robillard
From designer to brand owner
It is not every day that a watch designer steps out from behind the curtain to launch a brand of his own. When it happens, however, enthusiasts tend to pay attention—especially when that designer has spent a decade shaping watches at one of Switzerland’s most respected maisons.
I first had the chance to speak with Alexandre Voirin when he joined us on the Time2Calibrate podcast. During the conversation he shared stories from his time at Longines, where he worked on an impressive range of modern and heritage models—from the Spirit line to the revival pieces that helped define the brand’s contemporary identity. As someone who has long admired Longines’ blend of history and practicality, it immediately struck me that the watches Voirin might one day design under his own banner would likely fall squarely within my wheelhouse.
The first Carlingue piece I handled last year—a limited bronze diver—confirmed that suspicion. It was purposeful, well-priced, and refreshingly unpretentious. The new Carlingue Aviation Watch 01 GMT in black continues along that same path, offering a pilot-inspired dual-time watch that feels built for everyday wear.
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Key Features of the Carlingue Aviation 01 GMT
Aviation Roots with a Rebel Edge
Carlingue as a brand carries a personality that is slightly different from the more restrained tone of traditional Swiss watchmaking. Voirin speaks openly about influences ranging from aviation history to motorcycle culture, boxing gyms, and tattoo art. The result is a watch that feels less like a gentleman pilot’s accessory and more like a tool for someone who prefers to do things their own way.
That attitude comes through in the Aviation 01’s design. The watch is built around a 40 mm stainless steel case, expanding to 41 mm when the rotating bezel is included, with a lug-to-lug of 49.7 mm and a thickness of 13.65 mm. On paper those numbers suggest a solid presence on the wrist without drifting into oversized territory. The proportions feel modern but remain wearable, particularly for those who appreciate the slightly rugged stance of a tool watch.
A domed sapphire crystal sits over the dial, treated with anti-reflective coating on the underside, while a bi-directional steel bezel filled with Super-LumiNova adds both visual depth and practical functionality. Combined with 100 metres of water resistance and a screw-down crown, the watch feels robust enough for daily wear without attempting to masquerade as something it isn’t.
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A Dial Built for Legibility
The dial of the Aviation 01 GMT follows a familiar aviation watch logic: clarity first, decoration second.
The black dial features a circular satin finish with painted Arabic numerals and indices filled with Super-LumiNova. Sandblasted rhodium-plated hands stand out clearly against the dark background, and the addition of a 24-hour GMT hand allows the wearer to track a second time zone—useful whether you are crossing oceans or simply keeping tabs on family and colleagues abroad.
The rotating bezel provides another layer of functionality, allowing quick time-zone adjustments without touching the crown. It is a simple system, but one that has long proven effective in aviation-inspired watches.
Around back, a sapphire display window reveals the movement inside—a detail that adds a little mechanical theatre without distracting from the watch’s otherwise purposeful design.
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Japanese Calibre
Powering the Aviation 01 GMT is the Miyota 9075, a self-winding mechanical movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 42-hour power reserve.
The 9075 has become increasingly popular among independent brands for a simple reason: it offers a traveller’s GMT function at a price point that remains accessible. The local hour hand can be adjusted independently, making it easy to jump time zones without stopping the watch—exactly the type of functionality travellers appreciate.
In this context, the choice makes sense. Carlingue positions itself as a practical, working-person’s watch brand rather than a platform for haute horlogerie experimentation, and the Miyota movement aligns with that philosophy.
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Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40mm Diameter 49.7mm Lug to Lug 13.65mm Thickness 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Caseback 100m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Sapphire Crystal Matte Dial Printed Markers Syringe Handset Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Miyota 9075 /w Date 24 Jewels 28 800bph 42-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stitched Leather Strap |
Carlingue Aviation GMT 01
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A Watch for the Independent Mind
One thing I appreciate about Carlingue is that it doesn’t attempt to compete in the increasingly crowded space of hyper-luxury independent watchmaking. Instead, the brand leans into something simpler: solid design, honest pricing, and a bit of attitude.
Voirin often describes Carlingue watches as appealing to the “badass” in the wearer—the person who rides motorcycles, trains in a boxing gym, or perhaps just prefers a watch that doesn’t feel overly polished. Whether one buys fully into that narrative or not, the Aviation 01 GMT does succeed in feeling authentic.
And authenticity goes a long way.
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Final Thoughts & Pricing
After spending time with the watch, my takeaway is straightforward. The Aviation 01 GMT feels like a natural extension of the instincts that Voirin honed during his years at Longines: balanced proportions, strong legibility, and a clear sense of purpose. It is a tool watch first and a conversation piece second.
For enthusiasts looking for a practical GMT with aviation character—and a designer who clearly understands the heritage he’s building upon—the Carlingue Aviation Watch 01 GMT makes a compelling case. It is available from the brand website for 750,00 € (approx. $1,175 CAD). .
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About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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