by Marc Levesque
Tantalizing
In an industry that often reserves exotic materials for limited editions and experimental pieces, Atelier Wen has achieved something remarkable. With the new Inflection series, launching on November 4th, the young Hong Kong–based brand introduces what it calls the world’s first non-limited, full-tantalum bracelet watch. A technological and philosophical leap that redefines what modern independent watchmaking can be.
A Turning Point
Atelier Wen has long been known for combining fine craftsmanship and cultural richness in accessible watchmaking, but Inflection represents an entirely new chapter. As co-founder Robin Tallendier explains, “This collection has been our priority since 2022… it represents the next big step in our brand’s evolution, and sets the tone for our pursuit of increasingly ambitious standards of fine watchmaking.”
That ambition shows in every part of the Inflection. From its bold use of tantalum to its Grand Feu enamel dials and a custom Girard-Perregaux movement, each element demonstrates both technical skill and philosophical harmony.
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The challenge of tantalum
Few materials inspire awe and trepidation quite like tantalum. Number 73 on the periodic table, this refractory metal is known for its deep bluish-grey hue, exceptional density, and corrosion resistance. It’s also notoriously difficult to machine. Brands like F.P. Journe and Louis Vuitton have used it, but almost exclusively for watch cases. Atelier Wen, by contrast, has gone all in, crafting not only the case but the entire integrated bracelet in 99.9% pure tantalum.
The engineering challenge cannot be overstated. Each link of the bracelet has been sculpted and finished with alternating brushed, frosted, and mirror-polished surfaces, all while eliminating any flat planes in favor of flowing concave and convex curves. The result is a sculpture of form and texture that plays with light and shadow, heavy in hand yet fluid on the wrist.This interaction of opposites is intentional. Inspired by the Chinese philosophical idea of Yin (阴) and Yang (阳), the design combines contrasting qualities: brushed and polished, concave and convex, heavy and light, into a balanced whole. The metaphor fits well. Inflection represents the brand’s balance point between technical precision and poetic design.
Enamel Mastery from China’s Finest
At the dial level, Atelier Wen continues its mission to celebrate and elevate Chinese craftsmanship. Each dial of the Inflection is a Grand Feu enamel masterpiece crafted by the Beijing-based atelier of Kong Lingjun, widely regarded as China’s leading dial enameller. His workshop, officially designated the China Enamel Watch (Beijing) Manufacturing Center by the China Horologe Association, specializes solely in enamel dials, with an astonishing 50% rejection rate due to the process’s difficulty.
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Three iterations
The collection debuts in three variations:
幽 (Yōu) – The launch edition, limited to 30 pieces, features a fumé green enamel that transitions from mint to viridian over a hand-hammered silver base.
墨 (Mò) – A permanent black enamel dial with gilt numerals and gold-plated hands.
渊 (Yuān) – A deep blue enamel version with white numerals and rhodium-plated hands.
Each dial undergoes multiple firings up to 850°C, with layers applied and polished to achieve the flawless, glassy finish that Grand Feu enamel is known for. Designed by Lee Yuen-Rapati, the numerals mimic Chinese calligraphic strokes. A subtle gesture that connects heritage and modernity.
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A Collaboration with Girard-Perregaux
Inside, there’s something even more unexpected: a customized Girard-Perregaux GP03300 caliber. That Girard-Perregaux, one of Switzerland’s oldest manufacturers, a name synonymous with high-end finishing and precision, agreed to collaborate with a young independent brand, which says a lot. Their willingness to lend both movement and expertise gives Atelier Wen access to a whole new realm of decorative sophistication.
The movement’s bridges, designed by Atelier Wen’s Alfred Chan in collaboration with GP’s technical team, reinterpret traditional côtes de Genève into radial wave patterns inspired by wind motifs from classical Chinese art. These sculptural, partly skeletonized bridges are ruthenium-plated and hand-finished with sharp anglage and black-polished screws, while the text and branding appear in rose-gold engraving.
The rotor mirrors this artistry, with five skeletonized rose-gold spokes radiating from a tungsten weight that aligns perfectly with the movement’s bridges as it spins. At just 3.36mm thick, the GP03300 remains svelte yet robust, running at 28,800 vph with a 48-hour power reserve and regulation to five positions.
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Philosophy in Metal and Motion
The Inflection is more than a watch; it’s a manifesto. It represents Atelier Wen’s shift from the accessible luxury space into true haute horology, not by imitation but by innovation. The fusion of Chinese philosophy, Swiss precision, and rare materials gives the piece a distinct cultural identity, one that feels both fresh and timeless. Even the name Inflection is meaningful: a point of change, a curve that alters direction, just as this release bends the brand’s trajectory.
Availability and Pricing
Production is understandably very limited due to the challenges of working with tantalum. In its first year, Atelier Wen plans to produce only 100 pieces, with the Yōu launch edition limited to 30 units and the rest divided between the black- and blue-dial variants.
Allocation will be managed through an application-based system, ensuring each piece goes to someone who values its significance. Prices start at $29,800 USD for the full-tantalum bracelet or $19,800 USD for a sailcloth and rubber strap, though each bracelet buyer will also receive both straps as a complement.
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A New Horizon for Chinese Watchmaking
Atelier Wen’s mission has always been to redefine perceptions of Chinese horology, bridging cultures through design and craft. With Inflection, the brand has not only bridged that gap, it has crossed it entirely.
This is a watch that doesn’t just tell time; it tells a story, one of persistence, material mastery, and a quiet revolution unfolding in tantalum grey.
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About the author
Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.
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