Atelier Wen: A Proudly Chinese Expression of Contemporary Watchmaking

by Brent Robillard

A myth reimagined on the wrist

It’s not every day that a watch comes along and quietly reshapes your expectations of what a modern dress watch can be. The Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (Jiāo) does just that—not by shouting, but by whispering with incredible detail, refined craftsmanship, and cultural depth. Three years in the making, Ancestra marks the independent brand’s most ambitious project to date, and the result is something both emotionally resonant and technically remarkable.

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Atelier Wen

I met Robin Tallendier–one half of Atelier Wen–three years ago at a RedBar gathering in Toronto. My friend Daniel, who was responsible for organizing the event, had been extolling the virtues of the Perception since he first showed it to me earlier in the year. Robin proved to be humble and unassuming (we had been in conversation almost half an hour before he revealed that he was the brand owner); the Perception was anything but.

Fast forward to this past spring, once again in Toronto at Daniel-organized event, and Robin–affable and shy as ever–had something new up his sleeve: the Ancestra.

Atelier Wen—meaning “culture workshop”—is a boundary-pushing independent brand co-founded with fellow French Sinophile Wilfried Buiron. United by a love of horology and Chinese culture, the duo set out to elevate perceptions of Chinese watchmaking through authentic design and world-class craftsmanship. By collaborating with some of China’s finest artisans, designers, and watchmakers, Atelier Wen breathes new life into forgotten techniques and traditions, giving rise to a proudly Chinese expression of contemporary watchmaking. The Ancestra feels like a logical extension of this lofty goal.

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A watch with mythological roots

The Ancestra series pays tribute to one of the oldest known representations of the dragon in Chinese culture—the jade artifacts of the Hongshan civilization. The watch case draws directly from the sinuous, flowing shape of these jade dragons, most notably in the detached, curved lugs that are externally screwed onto the case. There’s a visual and tactile elegance to this execution, especially with the case rendered in 904L stainless steel. This high-grade steel allows for an interplay of brushed and polished finishes that further accentuate the sculptural form.

Case dimensions

At 38mm in diameter, the case hits a sweet spot for those who appreciate classic proportions without sacrificing modern presence. It wears comfortably and confidently on the wrist, aided by the fluid contours of the lugs and a thoughtfully crafted leather strap that speaks to Atelier Wen’s obsessive attention to detail.

A dial like no other: Grand Feu in Motion

The heart of the Ancestra Jiāo, however, is the enamel dial—and it’s not just any enamel dial. This is grand feu enamel layered over a hand-hammered 925 silver base, with work executed by master enameller Kong Lingjun’s workshop in Beijing. The dial displays a mesmerizing fumé effect, transitioning from a pale silver center to a rich cobalt blue at the edge. Each piece is subtly different due to the artisanal nature of the work, making every Ancestra dial unique. Even in the darkened rooms of the Toronto cafe where I first laid eyes on the Ancestra, I knew it was something special. Now, after having spent several days with it, my initial thoughts have been confirmed.

A new movement partnership: Pequignet Calibre EPM03

In a notable departure from their previous Chinese-made calibres, Atelier Wen has partnered with Pequignet, a respected French manufacturer, to power the Ancestra. The result is the EPM03 movement, a customized engine offering chronometer-level performance (–4/+6 seconds per day), 65-hour power reserve, and a unique winding architecture inspired by the Pellaton system.

Visible through a sapphire exhibition case back, the movement is as visually compelling as it is functionally sound. The main bridge is micro-etched with verses from the ancient Chinese manuscript Questions to Heaven—a poetic meditation that adds philosophical gravitas to the mechanical core. It is one of my favourite design elements. The 5N rose gold–plated rotor, with its open-worked design, completes the display with a flourish of elegance and thematic continuity.

Hands, Straps, and Finishing Touches

The original handset—leaf-shaped, rhodium-plated, and finished with frosted midplanes and concave polished bevels—adds dimensionality and depth to the dial. It’s a design choice that catches the light in just the right way, without drawing too much attention away from the enamel dial beneath. Equally eye-catching are the calligraphed Chinese numerals used for the odd hour markers and the baguette-cut diamonds for the even markers. The diamond indices, in particular, appear to float above the hammered dial.

The watch is paired with a hand-stitched full-grain leather strap, featuring an Epsom leather upper and Zermatt calfskin lining. The tang buckle is finely finished, with polished bevels and brushed surfaces—a subtle detail, but one that confirms the brand’s commitment to refinement at every level.

SPECS

Case	904L Stainless Steel 38mm Diameter 46mm Lug to Lug 11.3mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Display Case Back 100m Water Resistance
Dial & Crystal	Double Domed Sapphire Crystal Hand-hammered silver dial with fumé grand feu enamel Calligraphed Chinese numerals (odd hour markers) Baguette-cut diamonds (even markers) Tri-planed, rhodium-plated “leaf” hands
Movement	Customized Pequignet Calibre EPM03 3/4 bridge with circular, deeply micro-etched Chinese manuscript -4/+6s per day (adjusted in 6 positions) 21 jewels 28,800 bph 65-hour power reserve
Strap	Hand-stitched, full-grain leather strap with Epsom Zermatt lining; stainless steel buckle with hand-applied, mirror-polished bevels and fine brushing

Atelier Wen Ancestra

Final Thoughts

The Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (Jiāo) isn’t just a beautiful dress watch—it’s a cultural artifact, an artistic expression, and a deeply considered tribute to Chinese heritage. From the jade dragon–inspired case, to the bespoke enamel dial, to the philosophical verses engraved on the movement, everything has been curated with intention and heart.

For those who seek meaning in their timepieces—and value both craftsmanship and story—the Ancestra delivers in spades. It’s a modern classic with ancient roots, a piece that rewards not only the eye, but also the imagination.

Pricing & Availability

The Atelier Wen Ancestra will retail for $5850 USD; however, it will be a very limited release. The preorder window will open for seven days only, and it closes this week. For more information, please visit the brand website.

About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.

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