Article by Marc Levesque; photography by Brent Robillard
Transcendant
The term “timeless” is an adjective that conveys the idea of lacking a specific beginning or end, embodying qualities of eternity and enduring presence. This word is often applied to things surpassing time constraints, such as the lasting elegance of a finely crafted timepiece that remains appealing despite changing trends. In a broader sense, “timeless” refers to anything that retains its significance and charm over the years, whether in art, literature, or enduring principles, inviting appreciation that transcends specific eras.
Timeless is also the name of a watch brand based in Switzerland that creates timepieces worthy of such a title. This may sound like a bold claim, but it is indeed accurate. Upon viewing their HMS line of watches, the neo-vintage design elements immediately catch your eye, subtly infused with steampunk influences while retaining a modern aesthetic. It is challenging to categorize, which I believe is the point. These watches exist beyond the confines of time, effectively making them timeless.
Today, I am reviewing their latest timepiece, the HMS. I assume that HMS stands for Hours, Minutes, and Seconds, as I deduced from their website, rather than Her Majesty’s Ship, which was my initial thought when I saw the acronym. This association was further reinforced by the crown design, which reminded me of a ship’s screw (propeller). I must admit that I have seen these watches online before, but nothing quite prepared me for the real thing. Some of you may know that I am all about the little details; this watch has no shortage of them.
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Key Features of the Timeless HMS 003
Case and materials
Let’s start with the dimensions. My calipers measure it at 42mm in diameter, 13mm in thickness, and 48mm from lug tip to lug tip. However, these measurements don’t tell the whole story. The case back is curved to match the exact shape of the domed sapphire crystal on top. If we disregard those curves, the watch would have a thickness of just 10mm. On the wrist, it certainly wears and appears like a thinner watch, and that curved case back also enhances comfort. It may seem like a minor detail, but I adore it.
The case back is radially brushed and features the Timeless spoked wheel logo at its center, and it requires a proprietary case clamp to unscrew it, which is unique. Additionally, the clamp’s curved grooves enhance its visual appeal. Surrounding all of that is the water resistance rating of 50 meters, along with the serial number, brand name, and the phrase “stainless steel.” I feel that including this extraneous information on the watch is unnecessary. If you’ve already decided to purchase it, there’s no need to be reminded that it’s made of stainless steel.
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The mid-case is made entirely of brushed stainless steel. At the 9 o’clock position, there is a small plaque secured by two tiny rose gold-toned screws. The plaque displays “HMS No 003” indicating the model reference number. Each piece in this collection is limited to 40 units. At 3 o’clock, you will find the crown. Its teeth are coated in black; I want to say it’s PVD, though it might be DLC, as there is no mention of it on their website. At the center of the crown are the spokes of the logo, and a small circle in rose gold tone is in the middle. All of this is very tasteful and intricate—very well done.
If you find everything so far intriguing, you’re in for a treat, as it becomes even more detailed. The lugs are primarily media-blasted and curved to mimic a wired design, though they are standard spring bars adapted. Upon closer inspection, you will notice polished rose gold spacers between the lugs and the case. If you glance too quickly, you might overlook this detail, but it is a striking design element I had never seen before. The bezel impressively measures only 2mm wide, allowing for a substantial 38mm dial opening. It is also media-blasted, concave, and features engraved circles at each hour mark.
Dial
The dial is where Timeless turns it up a notch. A beautiful white rehaut surrounds its perimeter; it is 6 mm wide, and a railroad-style minute track covers the entire edge. The track opens slightly every five minutes, revealing the minute numeral in small print. Within this track are the hour numerals, presented in a vintage typeface that perfectly complements the design. Notably, the numerals do not invert on the dial’s bottom half, which is a deliberate choice.
At the center of the dial is a rose gold-tone guilloché patterned disc. The intricate pattern is deep enough to enhance the play of light as you move the watch at different angles. On this disc, there is a plaque at 12 o’clock displaying the company name, and at 6 o’clock, a scalloped opening reveals the date with the model name underneath. This scallop also slightly intrudes into the rehaut, displacing the numeral that would typically be present. I commend Timeless for omitting the numeral entirely rather than awkwardly adjusting it as many other brands do with subdials and date displays.
In their first HMS model, the branding was placed on a much larger plaque at the 9 o’clock position, with the word “DATE” displayed under the date itself. I can’t express how relieved I am that they decided not to repeat that design choice. If you need a constant reminder that the number shown is the date, then perhaps you should stick to using your iPhone. At the center of the dial is an opening featuring the Timeless spoked wheel logo. This logo is attached to the central pinion and rotates with the watch hands.
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Above the wheel logo—which, while it does not add functionality, looks incredibly cool—lies a rose gold-tone bridge. On top of that bridge sits a pair of intricate hands I don’t think I’ve ever seen. I want to say the hour and minute hands are black, but they appear dark grey at certain angles. With all the details on this watch, they’ve done a great job ensuring enough contrast for readability at all times. The second hand is rather ordinary, but Timeless has done something that many other brands overlook: they’ve capped the center pinion with a rounded, solid black disc. These are Grand Seiko-level details, folks. I am impressed.
My only complaint about this dial is that it lacks any lume. However, I’m unsure where or how it could have been applied without significantly altering the design. Would that have been as appealing? I’m honestly not sure. You know what? I’m willing to overlook this issue because what they have created is impressive, even without the ability to read the time in the dark. In that case, take out your phone and shine a light on the dial—that’s a good use of a smartphone right there!
Movement
The aforementioned unlumed hands are powered by the STP Caliber STP1-11, a Swiss-made automatic watch movement. STP is Fossil’s movement division, and you can find STP movements in various Fossil Group watches, including most models in the Zodiac line. This movement features 26 jewels, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and has a power reserve of approximately 44 hours. Like the Sellita SW200-1, the STP1-11 is considered an ETA 2824-2 movement clone. Our review sample operated effectively within the STP specifications, maintaining accuracy within a range of -0 to +15 seconds per day.
Strap
Our watch features a thick yet supple brown leather strap that surprisingly smells like our photographer and wrist model’s cologne. This is not a bad thing. There is no vertical stitching; the only stitching is near the spring bars, along with two tiny decorative stitches at its tip. There are two matching leather keepers: one is woven into the strap, while the other is a loose piece that can adjust based on the leftover strap material when worn on the wrist. Instead of a tang buckle, Timeless offers a single-sided polished deployant clasp featuring their brand name etched on the part that clamps onto the strap.
I usually prefer deployant clasps because they add value to the watch’s overall design. However, Timeless got this particular model wrong. They used a standard-length strap in combination with this clasp, which causes all the metal to sit on one side of the wrist rather than underneath the watch. This placement can be uncomfortable and may even dig into the wrist, especially for smaller wrists.
What they should have done is use a double-deployant clasp. This design would allow some metal to fold on either side of the joint, distributing the metal more evenly. Alternatively, they could have designed the strap specifically for this deployant clasp, making the leather portion on the keeper side shorter. This adjustment would help ensure that all the metal sits opposite the watch, resting comfortably on the bottom of the wrist.
They could have just used a tang buckle, incorporating a design cue that mimics the watch for better cohesiveness. Currently, the polished finish on the watch does not match any other parts except for the polished edge of the case back and bezel. I’ve just noticed this small detail for the first time as I am typing this, nearly 2 weeks and 1,600 words later. It’s the watch that keeps on giving!
Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 42mm Diameter 48mm Lug to Lug 22mm Lug width 13mm Thick Display Case Back 50m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Rose gold-tone guilloché patterned disc Printed Index Date window @ 3 Antiqued Handset |
| Movement | STP Caliber STP1-11 26 Jewels 28 800vph 44-Hour Power Rewerve |
| Strap | Leather Strap /w Deployant Clasp |
Timeless HMS 003
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Final Thoughts and Pricing
When I was in my 20s, I worked for a couple of friends, which I don’t particularly recommend—I’ll save that story for another time. One of them had just purchased a Mercedes E430. It was his first luxury vehicle, and he truly deserved it, having worked hard to build his company. I remember riding in the car with him as he discovered new features and design elements, pointing them out with a smile. That’s exactly how I feel about this Timeless HMS watch; that’s precisely what I’ve been doing all along.
The old saying “it’s more than the sum of its parts” truly applies to this watch. It is much more than just interesting hands, a partially opened dial, and unique lugs. It’s the way all these elements work together to create a cohesive and, dare I say, timeless design. Don’t just take my word for it; the GPHG nominated this watch. I believe they know better than I do what constitutes good design. Although, if they are looking for Academy Members, psst! CALL ME!
This is the perfect conversation piece if you want something unique that makes you smile when you look at your wrist and something you can proudly share with your friends. I don’t think a better conversation watch exists. The only exception might be that outrageous multi-million-dollar meteorite rock watch I saw on Instagram the other day. Good luck trying to hide that one under a shirt cuff! You might find yourself having conversations like, “Hey, is that a rock on your wrist?”—and that could get old pretty quickly.
Pricing & Availability
If you’re interested, the Timeless HMS watches are currently limited in availability and come in various other color combinations. They are priced at 1,450 CHF, which is approximately $2,330 CAD based on today’s exchange rate. This marks an increase of nearly $500 over the first series, but I still consider it an excellent value. Additionally, you no longer have to look at the word “DATE” on the dial, and that’s worth something. For more details, please visit timeless-watch.ch.
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About the author
Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
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