Jamais deux sans trois
Last year, Edward Cho gave us a lovely duo of divers, the FLX 001/002. Today, he launches a third installment–no less lovely–called (you guessed it) the FLX003. The first two iterations of this diver referenced emblematic timepieces like Squale and Blancpain. The newest addition is unabashedly a nod to another icon–the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle.
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Key Features of the Fleux FLX003
Of course, the FLX003 is hardly an homage. Beyond the telltale oversized, inverted triangle and the 3, 6, 9 dial layout, the FLX003 goes its own way. It was the same with the FLX001 and 002. The new watch shares an archetypal skindiver case with its older siblings. Rendered in 316Lstainless steel, it measures 38mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. It is circularly brushed across the top and along the lugs, with horizontal brushing on the sides. The only hint of polish occurs in a slim chamfer along the lug edges.
The watch is on the thicker side at 14mm in height. However, much of this can be attributed to the tall Hesalite dome. The warm crystal adds to the vintage quality of the design and provides attractive distortions when viewed from an angle. The sterile case back and signed crown are screwed down, and the watch promises 200m of water resistance.
The Omega Seamaster Big Triangle (165.024) was commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence in the 1960s. As such, the addition of the large, lumed triangle at twelve was a matter of form follows function. It allowed military personnel to quickly and accurately distinguish the time under stressful conditions, including in situations of low light and underwater. Aside from the inclusion of the big triangle, the FLX003 also employs C3 “Old Radium” lume on the markers, the numerals, and the broad arrow handset. There is even a pinch on the bezel pip.
The bezel, for its part, is friction-operated and bidirectional. The aluminum insert has been painted in such a way as to appear like bakelite. It has a coin edge finish and an elapsed time scale, similar to that found on the FLX001.
Previously, my favourite dial layout was that used in the FLX002. I especially liked the quirky inclusion of a Cailfornia-style arrangement. But, I have to say that the FLX003 has worked hard to win me over anew. The 3, 6, 9–interspersed with stolid baton markers and truncated wedges–is quite aesthetically pleasing, while being equal parts functional in terms of legibility.
The FLX003 is powered by Seiko’s NH38A. The reliable movement has a 3Hz beat rate and a 41-hour power reserve. It is the same calibre found in the previous two models.
The watch comes on a black SEAQUAL synthetic sailcloth strap fashioned from recycled ocean plastics. It is lined with leather for comfort and has a nice taper from 20mm at the lugs to16mm at the stainless steel tang buckle.
SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 38mm Diameter 47mm Lug to Lug 14mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Bidirectional Friction Bezel Screw Down Crown & Case Back 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Hesalite Crystal Matte Black Dial Raised Markers Broad Arrow Handset C3 “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Seiko NH38A 24 Jewels 21 600bph 41-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | SEAQUAL Strap |
Fleux FLX003
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Final Thoughts
There is something at once nostalgic and new about the Fleux FLX003. It has the look and the feel of a mid-century skindiver. The case is so ubiquitous. The Big Triangle, so iconic. And the acrylic dome just exudes 60s dive vibes. However, in the same breath, I also feel like its stark colourway and uncongested layout (in both the bezel and the dial) speak of something much more modern. I think the interplay of the broad arrow handset with the inverted triangle at twelve and the numerals at 3, 6, and 9, is an inspired choice. While we see various combinations of these elements in past Seamasters–or even in CWC–this exact arrangement feels fresh. In fact the elements here function so cohesively that I am tempted to call it perfect.
Pricing and Availability
The Fleux FLX003 are available now for $499USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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