A classy affair
Deep Ghosh founded Retter watches in 2022 with the inaugural release of the 22—a multi-faceted stainless steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The Retter Mistral is the watchmaker’s sophomore effort, and it’s certainly a classy affair.
Key Features of the Retter Mistral
Fashioned from 316L stainless steel, the Mistral is a highly wearable 38mm in diameter with a restrained lug to lug of only 42.4mm. However, the most remarkable dimension is its case thickness of only 7.4mm (including the double domed sapphire crystal)! It is so svelte and comfortable, the watch might as well be an extension of your wrist.
Its size is due largely to the slender manual-wound calibre, but also to the unique lug construction—based on the mid-century “cornes de vache” construction used by Vacheron Constantin and other high-end Swiss watchmakers. However, while preparing the prototypes Ghosh was not happy with the early results and adapted his design so that the finished product appeared seamless and allowed for flourishes like the polished fillets on the edges of the lugs.
The dial, which is clearly a highlight of this piece, is a 5-step, multi-dimensional affair that adds a surprising degree of visual depth. This is achieved first with an angled rehaut where we find a simple dotted minute track. The textured chapter ring, which is bisected by the small seconds register also supports tall, applied wedge hour markers. The corrugated, inner-most portion of the dial is perhaps the most inventive, with its alternating lines of smooth and pebbled columns. Here, in the Midas Gold variant, this portion of the dial has been treated in a warm 18 karat shimmer.
The custom “spade” hands, hour indices, and small seconds have each been filled with X1 Super-LumiNova X1.
While difficult to believe, the Mistral is almost as interesting from the back, as it is from the front. Thanks to its sapphire display case, we are treated to an unobstructed view of the customized Retter 2105. The calibre is based on the manual wound ETA 7001, and is only 2.5mm thick. It showcases bead-blasted anthracite bridges, a perlage finish on the baseplate, and thermally blued screws. This top-grade variant should perform within ±10s/day.
The strap is provided by Jean-Rousseau, the Parisian leatherworker. It is fashioned from dyed goat leather with an alcantara lining. The strap tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the tang buckle.
The Retter Mistral is also available in Arctic Silver and Pine Green.
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 38mm Diameter 42.4mm Lug to Lug 7.4mm Thick (including crystal) 20mm Lug Width Display Case Back 100m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Sapphire Crystal Sector Dial 18k Finish Applied Indices Small Seconds Spade Handset X1 Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Calibre 2105 Manual Wound 17 Jewels 21 600bph 42-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stitched Leather from Jean-Rousseau |
Retter Mistral
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Final Thoughts
The Retter Mistal looks like it stepped out of the 1950s. Its sector-style dial has the timeless appeal of a Polerouter or the LeCoultre Bumper. A great deal of thought has gone into this design, from the case to the dial to the customized calibre. Even the strap has been colour-matched to the hour index. Aesthetically, it’s a watch with distinction and class–and it wears well, too.
Pricing & Availability
The Retter Mistral is available for pre-order now from the brand website for $1595USD. The launch batch will have 300 units with delivery promised in November 2024.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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