Off the Cuff: Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen

Mick Jørgensen’s Nordic Marine Instruments is sure to make waves with the new Østersøen (Danish for Baltic Sea). At the time of publication, the diver is in the final throes of a successful Kickstarter campaign. So, if you like what you see here, don’t waste any time.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen @calibre321

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Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Clean lines and classic design cues @calibre321

The Østersøen is a quintessential tool watch, featuring clean lines and straightforward, well-crafted design. My impression out of the box was, “Dang this thing is sharp.” Indeed, the watch—which is designed in Denmark and built in Singapore—has nary a stray cue. From its balanced, no date dial, to its stark steel bezel, the Østersøen eschews pretention of any kind. In its place, you get a solid build quality and a Nordic simplicity that is immediately attractive.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Steel bezel@calibre321

Using a technique they call MØRK finishing, NMI employs a diamond paste to polish the metal chamfers to a mirror-shine, adding a sense of depth and lightplay in the otherwise predominantly brushed case. Nicely proportioned at 40mm in diameter and 48mm lug to lug, the Østersøen is also slim for a diver. Despite its robust 120-click bezel, the watch comes in at only 11.9mm. Long, athletic lugs taper down to a 20mm lug width, as well, providing for a sturdy, yet refined silhouette. In combination with a screw-down crown and case back, the Østersøen offers 200m of water resistance.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Wave-textured dial @calibre321

A particular highlight here is the flat, sapphire crystal which has an excellent undercoat of AR to stave off unwanted reflections and glare—which is perfect, because you wouldn’t want to miss a minute of the delightful wave pattern crafted into the dial. Reflecting the dynamic character of the Baltic Sea, each colourway features the same laser-cut texturing in Arctic White, Sea Green, Sky Blue, or Sea Blue (featured here).

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Three-link bracelet with female endlinks @calibre321

Onto this have been applied white wedge markers, lined with polished steel to match the diamond cut dauphine handset in shape and finish. Interestingly, each timepiece employs a dollop of orange in the seconds hand and the model name, which is in tribute to the orange lighthouses of Denmark’s coast that bring sailors safely home from sea. Like those lighthouses, the Østersøen truly shines after dark, with a powerful application of BGW9 Super-LumiNova. A recessed chapter ring encases all in an easily legible minute track.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
On-the-fly micro-adjusting clasp @calibre321

The bracelet is a relatively straightforward three-link, using solid female endlinks for a comfortable drape. It really suits the case and tapers from 20mm at the lugs to a slim 16mm at the clasp. However, hiding beneath that clasp is an on-the-fly micro-adjusting mechanism that functions at the push of a button, allowing the wearer to make slight alterations throughout the day, thereby achieving the perfect fit.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
BGW9 SuperLumiNova @calibre321

At the heart of the Østersøen diver is the Miyota 90S5 Ultra Thin. This newer movement is partially responsible for the restrained case thickness. Like other movements in the series, it has 24 jewels and a 4Hz beat rate. You can expect up to 42 hours in power reserve, as well.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Miyota 90S5 @calibre321

SPECS

Case316L Stainless Steel
40mm Diameter
48mm Lug to Lug
11.9mm Thick
20mm Lug Width
120-click Unidirectional Bezel
Screw Down Crown & Case Back
200m Water Resistance
Dial & CrystalFlat Sapphire Crystal
/w AR Undercoat
Wave-Textured Dial
Applied Markers
Dauphine Handset
BGW9 Super-LumiNova
MovementMiyota 90S5
24 Jewels
28 800bph
42-Hour Power Reserve
StrapStainless Steel Bracelet /w
On-the-Fly Micro-Adjust

NMI Østersøen


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Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
200m water resistance @calibre321

Of Interest

In 2014, Mick Jørgensen turned his @wristporn Instagram account into a cornerstone of the microbrand world that we now know as watchbandit.com. To launch NMI, he gathered the talent of Creative Director, Christopher Waluga, and Production Consultant, Travis Tan. Chris holds architecture degrees from Germany’s Bahaus University and Poland’s Technical University of Cracow and has worked with Mick on WatchBandit since 2018. Travis, founder of RZE, brings his engineering acumen and metal-working expertise to the trio.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Solid tool watch @calibre321

Quibbles

Frankly, at the early bird pricing of $399USD, the Østersøen is a steal.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Brushed case with polished chamfers @calibre321

Final Thoughts

With a high-end Japanese movement, a micro-adjusting claspt, top notch finishing, and a clean Nordic design, one would expect a much higher price tag to accompany the NMI Østersøen. It’s no wonder that the fledgling brand has eclipsed its initial Kickstarter pledge and unlocked two of three stretch goals—a bracelet adjustment tool and a free FKM rubber Tropic strap. With the Østersøen, NMI manage to achieve the difficult task of designing a distinctive diver with classic cues and familiar language that looks as though it might well have been around for decades.

Early bird pricing of the NMI Østersøen is $399USD for the first 300 pieces. MSRP following the close of the Kickstarter campaign will be $549 USD. Delivery is scheduled for January and February of 2024. For more information check out the brand website and Kickstarter page.

Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen Watch Review
Nordic Marine Instruments @calibre321

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About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.


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4 thoughts on “Off the Cuff: Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen

  1. I’m in at $399 🙌🏽 I really like dauphine hands on any watch… The team of 3 here is a trifecta of amazing talent… One of my favorite watches is the RZE and Travis is a great guy and very hands on with all his projects… So, this Watch at the very least would be sought after years from now by horological enthusiasts like us…. Right?

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