by Brent Robillard
Alone is its class
I find some watches difficult to review. And sometimes that difficulty has nothing to do with the watch itself. The Ajax from 5280 Watch Company is one of them.
Part of the problem is familiarity. My wife and I first met Rich and Amy, the husband-and-wife team behind 5280, at the inaugural Vancouver Timepiece Show in 2025. Since then, our paths have crossed more than a few times. We’ve shared meals, traded stories, talked watches (and dogs), and even managed to accidentally run into one another in Neuchâtel. The watch world has a habit of becoming smaller the longer you spend in it.
The other challenge is that no two 5280 watches are truly the same.
A Collection of One
Earlier this year, Marc Levesque and Bob Allaby reviewed the Antero for The Calibrated Wrist, a watch distinguished by its chartreuse enamel dial. The Ajax sitting on my desk today shares the same DNA, but it is also entirely unique. That’s the nature of what 5280 does. Each dial is individually engine turned, individually enamelled, and individually numbered. By design, there will never be another watch exactly like this one. That makes comparisons difficult.
At the Vancouver Timepiece Show this past April, Rich and Amy loaned us the Ajax Rain Shower Green. Six weeks later, I’m still looking at it. Admittedly, not always on my wrist. My wife quickly claimed it as her own, and I’ve spent much of the loan period negotiating temporary custody.
I understand the attraction.
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Key Features of the 5280 Watch Co Ajax
Basse-taille
The first thing that catches your eye is the dial. It would be impossible not to. Beneath the translucent green enamel sits a hand-engraved fine silver base created on a traditional rose engine lathe. The resulting guilloché pattern shifts constantly as light moves across its surface. Unlike a painted dial, the colour appears to have depth. Light penetrates the enamel before reflecting off the engraved silver below, creating a sense of movement that changes throughout the day.
The technique itself is centuries old. Basse-taille enamelling involves applying translucent vitreous enamel over an engraved metal surface. It is labour intensive, unpredictable, and increasingly uncommon. According to the brand, as many as three out of four dials fail during the firing process before ever reaching a watch case. Those facts are impressive, but they don’t fully explain the effect.
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What struck me most wasn’t the craftsmanship itself. It was how difficult the dial is to photograph accurately. In some lighting it appears dark green and subdued. In others it glows with a vivid emerald intensity. The watch can look almost entirely different depending on the angle of your wrist. And, then, well… there’s the double-domed sapphire crystal.
But while these issues might make life difficult for a photographer, they will certainly make a watch owner smile.
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Case and dimensions
The polished cushion case measures 40 mm across, 48 mm lug to lug, and 12.9 mm thick. On paper, those dimensions suggest a substantial watch. On the wrist, that’s exactly what it feels like.
The cushion shape helps distribute the size comfortably, but this is not a delicate dress watch masquerading as something more serious. The 22 mm lug width gives the Ajax considerable visual weight, while the thick ostrich leather strap reinforces that impression. In fact, one of the most surprising aspects of the Ajax is how assertive it feels.
At first glance, a hand-engraved enamel dial paired with polished Breguet hands suggests something refined and reserved. Then you notice the proportions. Then you notice the 200 metres of water resistance. Then you realise you’re looking at a hand-wound watch built more like a modern sports watch than a traditional dress piece.
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The result occupies an unusual middle ground. It dresses up easily. The enamel work practically demands a closer look whenever it peeks out from beneath a cuff. Yet it never feels fragile or precious. There’s enough substance here that wearing it casually with jeans and a sweater feels perfectly natural. That dual personality became increasingly apparent the longer I spent with it.
Movement
Inside beats a Sellita SW210-4b, a movement many collectors will already know. In this case, 5280 uses the Top-grade version, adjusted to tighter tolerances and finished to the brand’s D4 specification. Through the sapphire caseback, the movement displays circular graining, côtes de Genève, and snailing across visible components. More importantly, it feels appropriate.
A hand-wound movement encourages interaction. Every morning starts with a few turns of the crown. Given the amount of manual work involved in creating the dial itself, there is something fitting about pairing it with a movement that requires a similar degree of participation from the owner.
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Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40mm Diameter 48mm Lug to Lug 12.9mm Thick 22mm Lug Width Screw Down Case Back & Crown 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Double-domed Sapphire Crystal Baise-taille Guilloché Dial Vitreous Enamel Green Applied Numerals Breguet Handset |
| Movement | Sellita SW210-4b Hand Winding Top Grade +/- 4 secs/day 18 Jewels 28 800bph 56-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Ostrich Leather |
5280 Watch Co Ajax
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Final Thoughts
The Ajax isn’t a watch that disappears into the background. Neither is it a watch built around specifications alone. Instead, it succeeds because it combines two qualities that don’t often coexist. The dial speaks to traditional decorative arts and hand craftsmanship. The case, dimensions, and water resistance suggest a watch intended to be worn rather than protected.
Over the past six weeks, I found myself returning to it for that reason. Every time I thought I had formed a complete opinion, changing light or a different strap angle would reveal something new in the dial.
And perhaps that’s the most accurate way to describe the Ajax. Most watches tell you exactly what they are within the first five minutes. The Ajax takes considerably longer.
Pricing & Availability
The 5280 Watch Co Ajax Rain Shower Green is a piece-unique limited-edition model available directly through 5280 Watch Company. However, the Ajax model–depending upon your movement choice–retails for $4,495 to $5,595 USD.
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About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
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