By Sylvia Bonfanti
Deliberately divisive
At first glance, something is immediately evident: this new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual 36 by Rolex is a deliberately divisive reference. It does not seek universal approval and likely doesn’t even want it. It seeks reaction. In a watchmaking landscape where aesthetics often lean toward restraint, this dial behaves in an almost “unruly” way: it enters the visual space and takes it over. Some will appreciate it for its visual energy, for a dial that breaks away from the collection’s more austere tradition. Others, however, will find it excessive, almost out of place compared to the more classic and “quiet” idea of the Oyster Perpetual. Yet this is precisely where the project finds its strength: in generating conversation. Because one rule remains unchanged — the important thing is to be talked about.
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Between Aesthetics and Strategy
To think this dial is merely a creative exercise would be naïve. Rolex does not improvise, nor does it experiment by chance. It rarely misses its positioning. Even when it dares, it does so with full awareness. This multicoloured Jubilee motif dial is not just a stylistic exercise but a precise operation: to polarize, to attract attention, to spark debate. And this watch achieves that effortlessly. Ultimately, it is exactly this tension between love and rejection that will almost inevitably turn it into an object of desire. Because what divides often seduces more.
The Déjà-Vu of the “Tiffany Dial”
Long-time followers of the crowned brand will recognize a familiar pattern. The so-called Oyster Perpetual models with colourful dials — particularly those in the turquoise shade informally dubbed “Tiffany” — initially unsettled part of the audience. For many purists, they were too bold, too “pop,” too far removed from the model’s traditionally “quiet” identity. Then, as often happens when Rolex truly pushes forward, the market changed its mind. Or rather, it followed. From controversial to unattainable, from criticized to iconic. This multicoloured Jubilee seems to follow the same trajectory: first it destabilizes, then it is absorbed, it seduces and ultimately it conquers.
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The Dial as Artwork
The undisputed protagonist is the new multicoloured lacquered dial with a Jubilee motif, a reinterpretation of a visual language born in the late 1970s. The letters of the word “Rolex” are not simply printed: they become a texture. They chase one another, multiply, and intertwine in a rhythmic composition built on ten different shades, combined with almost obsessive precision. This is not decoration, it is visual structure. Behind this apparent lightness lies significant production complexity. The colours are not applied simultaneously but one at a time. Every letter, every shape, must be positioned with extreme precision. There is no margin for error. It is one of those cases where complexity is concealed rather than displayed. The process feels closer to micro-artistic production than simple industrial decoration.
An Unspoken Reference to Alighiero Boetti
Within the calibrated interplay of letters and colour that defines the dial, one can sense a subtle reference to the visual language of Alighiero Boetti, the Turin-born artist known for his alphabet-based and textile works built on grids, repetitions and chromatic variations that transform words into images and meaning into rhythm. Boetti worked on dualities: order and disorder, rule and freedom. A dialectic that seems to re-emerge here in watch form: an apparent chromatic spontaneity supported by a rigorous, almost mathematical construction. The reference becomes even clearer in his Maps and Alphabet compositions where the sign loses its linguistic function to become code, texture and surface. Similarly, on this new Oyster (ref. 126000), typography detaches from its original meaning to become a visual pattern. The result is a controlled explosion of colour: joyful yet rigorous, free yet perfectly calibrated.
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Beneath the Surface: Rolex Substance
Beyond the visual impact, this remains an Oyster Perpetual in its purest sense. The 36 mm case in Oystersteel — a proprietary alloy from the 904L steel family — ensures corrosion resistance and a brilliance that over time approaches that of precious metals. The Oyster construction, waterproof to 100 meters, features a monobloc middle case, a screw-down case back and a Twinlock double waterproofness crown. It is a well-established architecture that still stands as a benchmark for robustness and reliability. Inside beats the calibre 3230, a self-winding manufacture movement with a blue Parachrom hairspring and Chronergy escapement. A power reserve of approximately 70 hours and Superlative Chronometer precision (-2/+2 seconds per day) confirm a simple truth: while the dial divides, the mechanics bring everyone together. The watch is completed by the Oyster three-link bracelet with Oysterclasp and Easylink extension system for quick adjustment.
A Legitimate Question: What About Originality?
At this point, a reflection arises. In such a visually bold operation, perhaps a touch more originality would have been welcome. The risk, however minimal, is that the dial may be perceived more as a reinterpretation of an already familiar visual vocabulary — also outside watchmaking — rather than as an entirely new language. A limitation? Perhaps. Or simply the price to pay when entering expressive territories so rich in references.
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The Conclusion: Divide to Conquer
This new Oyster Perpetual 36 is more than a chromatic variation. It is not a neutral watch. It is not for those seeking absolute discretion. It is a statement. It is for those who understand that even within the most solid expression of luxury, there can be a playful, almost intellectual dimension. It may appeal or not; that is irrelevant. Because the moment it divides, it wins. And the moment it is talked about, it exists more than the others. And in the end, as already happened with the “Tiffany dials,” what sparks debate today… will be exactly what everyone wants on their wrist tomorrow.
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About the Author
Silvia Bonfanti, known as “The Classy Wrist,” is an Italian journalist specializing in watchmaking, a press officer and co-organizer of Watches of Italy, the leading Italian event dedicated to independent watchmaking held in Milan. She writes about watches, lifestyle and other topics, approaching them with a refined, attentive and critical perspective that goes beyond appearances. You can follow her on Instagram.
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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