By Brent Robillard
Two Military Tool Watches
Ollech & Wajs earned its reputation the hard way—on the wrists of people who actually needed their watches to work. Founded in Zurich in 1956, the independent Swiss brand developped a following among soldiers and pilots in the 60s and 70s, who weren’t shopping for fashion, but for equipment. These were watches bought through PX counters and private purchase, carried into jungles, cockpits, and forward positions. They weren’t precious. They were practical.
That lineage is what the brand is drawing from with two new reissues from the M-Series Heritage Collection: the MK-102 and the MV-82. Both watches trace their DNA back to custom field and pilot pieces Ollech & Wajs produced in the late 1960s and early 1970s for U.S. servicemen deployed across Southeast Asia or stationed along Cold War frontiers. In revisiting these designs, OW is reactivating a chapter of its history that’s often overlooked in modern watchmaking.
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Two Units, Two Identities
The OW MK-102 reissue takes its cues from a 1969 watch created for members of the U.S. Army’s 2nd Infantry Division. Known as the “Indianhead” Division, the unit has served in every major U.S. conflict of the 20th century and spent some of its most tense years stationed along the Korean Demilitarized Zone. Life there demanded constant readiness, and the original watch reflected that reality: robust, legible, and built to take a beating. The modern version carries that same visual language forward, with a 60-minute tactical bezel and a no-nonsense tool-watch presence.
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The MV-82, meanwhile, draws on a watch produced for U.S. Army Airborne units during the Vietnam era. The Airborne community—most famously embodied by the 82nd Airborne Division—represents a culture of rapid deployment and elite readiness. Watches bearing Airborne insignia were more than functional instruments; they were markers of identity, worn with pride by soldiers who had earned their Jump Wings. The MV-82’s compass bezel speaks to that navigational heritage, giving the watch a slightly different personality while sharing the same underlying case architecture.
On the Wrist: Tool Watches, Through and Through
Both watches share the same 39.5mm case, and on paper, the dimensions feel spot-on for a modern tool watch. In practice, they wear confidently robust without feeling oversized. The drilled lugs, brushed steel surfaces, and oversized screw-down crowns all reinforce the sense that these are watches meant to be used, not coddled. On their respective RAF-style NATO straps, both watches wear comfortably, though the added fabric does introduce a bit more height on the wrist. It’s not a dealbreaker—just something you notice if you’re sensitive to case thickness. Swap to the optional M-Heritage mesh bracelet, and the watches settle down a touch closer to the wrist, gaining a slightly more versatile, everyday feel without losing their tool watch DNA.
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Legibility is excellent across the board. The combination of bold hands, clear indexes, and Super-LumiNova application does exactly what a military-inspired watch should do: disappear on the wrist until you need it, then read instantly when you glance down.
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A Modern Movement with Old-School Intent
Inside both references beats the bespoke Soprod P024, customised for Ollech & Wajs with a branded rotor, engraved components, and assembly and regulation done specifically for the brand. It’s a pragmatic choice—reliable, serviceable, and tuned to the kind of functional ethos OW has always leaned into. There’s nothing flashy here, and that feels entirely appropriate. These watches aren’t about exhibition casebacks or haute horlogerie flourishes. They’re about dependability.
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Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 39.5mm Diameter 48mm Lug to Lug 12.5mm Thickness Screw Down Crown & Caseback 300m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Curved Sapphire Crystal Matte Dials /w Insignia Printed Markers Baton Handsets Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Bespoke Soprod P024 25 Jewels 28 800bph 38-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Fabric RAF-style NATO Strap |
Ollech & Wajs M-Series
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Final Thoughts & Pricing
What I appreciate most about these M-Series reissues is that they don’t feel like cosplay. They’re not trying to romanticize military history through faux-patina or exaggerated “vintage” cues. Instead, they take the visual language of real service watches and translate it into something that makes sense for modern, everyday wear. The result is a pair of watches that feel rooted in real stories, but built for contemporary wrists.
If you’re drawn to military tool watches because of what they represent—function first, aesthetics as a byproduct—both the Mk-102 and the MV-82 make a compelling case. They’re confident, purpose-built, and remind you that some of the most interesting watches in history weren’t designed to be collected. They were designed to be relied upon.
Both of the M-Series watches retail for CHF 1,496 (approx. $2,645 CAD) and are available through the brand website.
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About the Author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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