Introduction: The Most Honest Watch Category
The foundation of the modern tool watch
If there is such a thing as a “default” mechanical tool watch, it is the field watch. Designed first for function rather than status, the field watch prioritizes legibility, durability, and reliability above all else. It is a category defined less by complication and more by clarity of purpose.
For many collectors, the field watch is a natural entry point into mechanical watches. For others, it remains a constant—an everyday companion that resists trend cycles and excess. In the context of The Ultimate Watch Buying Guide, the field watch represents the most distilled expression of what a watch is meant to do. Marathon Watch CEO, Mitchell Wein once said to me in an interview, “A watch’s primary function is to tell the time. If you can’t tell the time quickly and easily, the watch is not doing its job.”
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Field Watches and the Tool Watch Ethos
Field watches sit squarely within the broader tradition of the tool watch. Like dive watches or pilot’s watches, they were developed to solve real-world problems, not to satisfy aesthetic trends.
At their core, tool watches are instruments first and accessories second. If you’d like a deeper look at how this philosophy applies across categories, we’ve explored that foundation separately in our evergreen article on what defines a tool watch—a useful companion to this guide.
What sets the field watch apart is its restraint. Where dive watches add bezels and pilot’s watches grow in scale, the field watch remains compact, readable, and deliberately simple.
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A Brief History: From Trenches to the Wrist
The field watch traces its lineage back to early 20th-century military and trench watches. During the First World War, soldiers required wrist-worn timekeepers that could be read quickly, often in low light, while keeping hands free. Wire lugs, luminous numerals, and compact cases became defining traits.
Over time, these designs evolved alongside military specifications. The Second World War and post-war periods saw further refinement, with clearer dials, improved water resistance, and standardized layouts. These watches were never meant to be luxurious; they were meant to be dependable.
Civilian interpretations followed. Some leaned into exploration and adventure narratives, while others stayed closer to their military roots. Watches such as the Rolex Explorer helped popularize the idea of a rugged, all-purpose watch suitable for everyday life—though many modern “Explorer-type” watches now span a wide range of brands and price points, like the Traska Summiteer or the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic.
Core Characteristics of a Field Watch
While designs vary, most field watches share a common set of traits.
Legibility Above All
High-contrast dials, clear Arabic numerals, and uncluttered layouts are central to the category. Many field watches use a 12-hour scale with an inner 24-hour track, reflecting their military origins. Hamilton is a case study in the legibility and their field watches are well-respected for both their build quality and the value proposition that they present. The Khaki Field Mechanical might be the purest expression of the field watch, but other watches in their collection demonstrate the degree of play within the format. The Khaki Field Titanium Auto 38 is one of my favourites from the brand. However, watches like the Khaki Field Expedition (with its rotating compass bezel) or the popular Khaki Field Murph (with its cathedral hands and elevated finish) establish the range of possibilities without sacrificing legibility. Farer—who make the Exmoor Field Watch—use creative colourways to establish legibility on traditional military-style dials.
Compact, Comfortable Cases
Field watches are typically modest in size, often ranging from 36–40 mm. Thin profiles and short lug-to-lug measurements help ensure comfort during extended wear. This isn’t a universal truth, but historically—and even recently—field watches have been compact. RZE, for instance, just released a 36mm version of their Resolute, and Draken also released a smaller 39mm version of their Aoraki.
Practical Durability
Water resistance is usually sufficient for daily life rather than extreme conditions. Robust cases, protected crowns, and reliable movements matter more than depth ratings. That being said, 100m of water resistance has become the norm for field watches. The Vero Meridian Manual Wind Rally and the Canopy Field One are two excellent examples. The Serica 6190 goes a step further with 200m.
Simple, Proven Movements
Field watches have historically favoured straightforward mechanical or quartz movements chosen for reliability and ease of service rather than novelty. The Vario x RZE Titanium Trench Watch employs the Japanese Miyota 82s5, whereas the Micromilspec FTU runs the Swiss Sellita SW200-1. Both of which are common workhorse movements.
Military Roots and Modern Reissues
Military-issued field watches remain a major influence on the category. Brands such as Marathon and Benrus continue to draw directly from issued designs, producing watches that feel purpose-built rather than styled. The Marathon GPM Officer’s Watch carries all the provenance of a military watch and is an iteration of the brand’s own GG-W-113 Field Watch, which adorns the wrists of servicemen and women around the world. And Benrus released a period-correct 34mm DTU-2A/P, the original U.S. Army field watch made in response to the 1962 MIL-W-3818B.
Modern reissues and reinterpretations—such as trench-inspired designs—bridge early history with contemporary materials and manufacturing. These watches often emphasize clarity, historical fidelity, and honest construction. But there are also many variants out there now with similar military provenance, like the Ollech & Wajs M110—which combines a 360-degree bidirectional compass bezel with 300m of water resistance and a strap made from recycled military-grade double twill hemp canvas.
The Urban Field Watch
Perhaps the newest development in field watches is that of the “urban field watch.” Designed to transition easily between casual and professional environments, urban field watches often introduce polished accents, upgraded materials, or solar-powered and quartz options. Brands such as YEMA and RZE have both explored this space with modern sensibilities with watches like the Urban Field and the Urbanist, respectively.
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Price Ranges and Accessibility
One of the enduring strengths of the field watch category is accessibility.
- Entry-level field watches often provide exceptional value, focusing on clarity and durability with minimal embellishment. The Khaki Field Mechanical retails for approximately $800 CAD (or $695 USD), and the RZE Urbanist for only $350 CAD (or $259 USD).
- Mid-range offerings tend to refine finishing, case construction, and movement choice. The Ollech & Wajs MV-82 retails for $2580 CAD ( or $1880 USD).
- Higher-end field watches may introduce proprietary movements, upgraded materials, or historical significance, though the core design language remains restrained. The Omega Railmaster retails for $7800 CAD (or $5400 USD).
Because the category resists excess, value is often easier to assess here than in more complex watch types.
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Why the Field Watch Endures
The field watch remains relevant because it aligns closely with how most people actually wear watches. It is comfortable, legible, and adaptable. It does not demand attention, yet it rewards closer inspection.
In a market increasingly crowded with complication and spectacle, the field watch stands as a reminder that good design begins with purpose.
Field Watches Within a Larger Buying Framework
As part of The Ultimate Watch Buying Guide, the field watch represents the baseline against which other tool watches can be understood. Dive watches add environmental specialization. Pilot’s watches prioritize cockpit legibility. Chronographs introduce timing complexity. And GMTs track other time zones.
But the field watch, at its best, asks the simplest question: What do you actually need a watch to do?
Final Thoughts: Starting Point, Not a Compromise
For newcomers, the field watch is often the first serious mechanical watch. For seasoned collectors, it is frequently the one that gets worn the most.
Its appeal lies not in nostalgia alone, but in relevance. As we continue this series with other watch categories, the field watch remains the reference point—a quiet standard against which all tool watches can be measured.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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