By Mike Compeau
The luxury bomb
Timex dropped a luxury bomb in the enthusiast watch scene in late September with the unveiling of a new brand, and a new standard for luxury watches “done the Timex way.” And, for six weeks now, I’ve worn my own new Timex Atelier Swiss-made Marine M1a, unboxed at our September 30 Redbar meetup.
TL/DR: I love this watch, and I love wearing this watch. This might be a great watch for you, too. But Timex has a whole new set of challenges to overcome with their dedicated upmarket move.
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Yes, I love it.
As I noted in a a recent Instagram comment on November 1, The Marine M1a aligned so completely with my collecting journey and passions, that the enjoyment I have in wearing it has, remarkably, silenced nearly all the competing screams from other pieces in my collection. Day after day it has risen to the top as I make daily watch choices.
Why? I hope to answer that question here.
But, what you might be asking yourself right now is why a Timex deserves this much attention. Fair question.
I hope to pull back the curtain on why the new Marine M1a, and the GMT24 M1a that was released only days later, might deserve your attention and consideration as you shape your own collecting journey.
Please read on and let me know if you find my comments and ponderings useful. I’ve got quite a journey to bring you on, and it’s not going to be a typical ‘new watch review’, so hang on to something. This will be the Next Chapter in the story I began on The Calibrated Wrist a few years ago.
Tell me about the watch!
A large percentage of readers may not have read another review on this watch prior to landing here today. So, I owe you folks a reasonable summary of the specifications of the Timex Atelier Marine M1a, and where I think it shines and where it misses. I’ll start there.
| The Specs | |
| Case Diameter | Minus crown guards: 39.7mm (Yes, really.) |
| Unidirectional Bezel Diameter | 40.6mm (Advertised as 41mm, rounded up by Timex.) |
| Case Height | 13mm |
| Case material & finish | 316L stainless steel, brushed primarily, with polished chamfers on skeleton case, and polished bezel grips |
| Dial | Black, multi-layer, cold-process gloss enamel, high-temp finishing/polish |
| Markers | Silver, Swiss Luminova-filled |
| Hands | High polish silver, Swiss Luminova-filled |
| Movement | Catena SA100 29 jewel automatic with 36/38-hour power reserve |
| Crystal (front/back) | AR coated sapphire, double-curved to reduce reflection |
| Water Resistance | 200M, non-ISO dive rated |
| Bezel inlay | Ceramic with Luminova-filled markers and pip at 12 |
| Bracelet/Strap | 316L Stainless steel, brushed finish, with the new Timex S I-Size link removal system for easy adjustment; optional NBR textured flat rubber strap |
The special ‘hollow lugs’ or ‘skeletonized case’ that has been at the heart of many reviewer comments on the new Timex Atelier family is not actually new to Timex, and certainly not new to Giorgio Galli’s designs. As I’d shown a few years ago in my previous articles here on The Calibrated Wrist, Giorgio Galli, now Timex Group Creative Director, first introduced the stainless-steel metal injection-molded (MIM) case design in 1996 via his work for the Nautica brand. [pic/s]
Since that time, this design element has found its way into other Timex-designed luxury brands like Ferragamo and Versace as well. Finally, the MIM case was a principle design feature in the limited-edition eponymous Giorgio Galli S1 and S2 series, consisting of a total of ten references between November of 2019 and January of 2025. [pic/s]
The case (and it’s hollow lugs) has become a distinctive, immediately identifiable characteristic of Galli’s design language as Timex moved upmarket in these past six years. But in each of the S series releases, the watch contained a variety of other unique elements that demonstrate Galli had no interest in borrowing designs from other brands.
That is also true when we look at the Marine M1a. The overall look is all new, decidedly upscale, and bears a unique mix of vintage and modern flair. There has been mention of the noted similarity of the Marine’s ‘domed’ ceramic bezel resemblance to some of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms models, though this feature has been seen across scores of watches over the past many years. All in all, the Marine M1a conveys an entirely unique viewing impression that both evokes its dive watch purpose and its elevated entry-luxury ambitions. It is a beautiful watch to hold and inspect, and a surprisingly accurate timepiece to wear. More about that later.
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So. What is Timex up to?
We saw a good deal more commentary on Timex’s plans in the recent Esquire UK interview by veteran journalist Johnny Davis. I suggest that article as an illuminating companion for your reading.
The Atelier upmarket extension has clearly been in the Timex Plan a long time
Since Giorgio Galli was given the mission in 2017 to create “the most ‘Timex’ Timex ever made,” the germ of the premium Timex Atelier brand had been brewing. The watch that emerged in November of 2019 from the original mission, the Timex Giorgio Galli S1, priced at $450 USD, made quite a splash. It was lauded by review after review. On sites like Worn & Wound, Hodinkee and A Blog to Watch, its reception staked out new territory for the brand, provided new visibility to the designer who had been creating innovative watch designs since the early 1990s, and an opportunity to for the designer to describe the impetus and vision for the new upscale series. Most importantly, it provided a platform for Galli to synthesize elements from across his decades of work into a new design tradition that would establish a higher level of reference for the beloved Timex brand within the horological milieu.
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But it’s a Timex.
The Reddit threads and other social media conversations make it clear that the greatest challenge Timex faces on this new journey is its own (lengthy) history and (great) reputation for making affordable and reliable timepieces. The Timex brand is imbued with a great deal of goodwill, but it is not aligned to anything like a luxury or entry-luxury aesthetic in minds of the world’s watch buyers.
Faced with a compelling desire to move upmarket, many belly-of-the-market brands will invent and posture an entirely new brand to embody the new aspirations. In the horology world, Crocco left Breil/Binda in the mid-1970s and founded Hublot in 1980. New brands can be shaped to hold most anything, if you are creating a mystique and mythology. This is one of the criticisms of Hublot—that is was largely an empty vessel that marketing was given a mission to flesh out. Other firms, like Seiko, believed that their long history—founded in 1892, in case you forgot—deserved to hold brand meaning very relevant to a move upmarket. Thus, Grand Seiko was born by Kintaro Hattori in 1960, grounded in true horological innovation.
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What is the marketplace differentiation between, say, Hublot and Grand Seiko today? Hublot gets a lot of flak for touting a ‘wealth & fame’ brand promise that enthusiasts find rather unfulfilled by the level of ‘engine’ dropped into their watch designs (see Roman Scharf’s argument for Hublot here). Grand Seiko, on the other hand, is widely respected and revered for their ability to truly deliver ‘beauty, precision and durability’ to the market. And, what’s more, Grand Seiko did this deliberately. The mission drove the development of innovative, unique and beautiful watches, and creation of astoundingly accurate timepieces.
What does Timex bring to a quest for their new ‘legacy of modernity’ in a new entry luxury watch? Can the Timex brand be molded or ‘bolted on’ to be stretched into the realm of luxury? Does adding the script-drawn ‘Atelier’ to the name make Timex, well, more Grand?
I do believe that the elegance and unique, modern designs we’ve seen from Timex Atelier thus far bode very well for embodying the promise of the new brand positioning. I don’t often hear debate on the attractiveness of the new watch models, which is more than can be said for some other brands. I believe their reach is certainly within their grasp. As Galli recent acknowledged, “In the past decade we’ve made huge progress, though perception is always the hardest thing to shift. [But] It’s improving every year.”
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The Next Chapter Unfolds
Timex, founded in 1854, has a proud tradition, spanning eras of Waterbury Clock, Ingersoll, and most notably the Timex of the 1950s and 60s that ‘keeps on ticking’. It seems clear that ownership of the Timex Group sees their parent brand’s future as rightfully preeminent over the luxury fashion brands for whom they have crafted Swiss made watches for a generation. Versace, Philipp Plein, and Ferragamo enjoyed healthy supplemental revenues from a steady, brand-consistent watch side-hustle. And they have allowed Timex to quietly gain valuable experience in Swiss watchmaking below the radar of the enthusiast community that largely ignores such fashion brand products. Perhaps this is why few had noticed nor mentioned that the metal injection-molded case seen first in Timex’s 2019 Giorgio Galli S1, then S2 and now in the Atelier M1a cases, had been created for Nautica models in the mid-1990s, and is still used in various iterations in current Nautica, Versace, and Ferragamo models.
Most watch enthusiasts do not know that Timex has manufactured Swiss made watches for decades now, that they have a manufacturing office (ne, an Atelier…) in Lugano, Switzerland, nor that they have significant microelectronics capabilities not only in southeast Asia but also in Pforzheim, Germany. They may be largely unaware that Timex has sold activity-tracking analog watches for years and were a pioneer in integrating wireless payment technology into watches. Nor are most aware that Timex may well produce a much higher annual volume of watches (16-21M/yr) than any other firm–except perhaps Apple (35-37M/yr).
The ‘Lived-With’ Review
I’ve found the Marine M1a to be a delight to wear.
As Galli says, small details truly do ‘reveal themselves over time’ during periodic gazing sessions. There was the discovery of the polished chamfered inside edges along the skeletal frame, noticed one evening as I was driving during the golden hour. There was then the subtle, unexpected gap in the polished silver frame of the 12 o-clock marker, filled perfectly with Luminova, that easily indicates the precise 12 position for hands passing by and for aligning the bezel pip. And, the second-hand counterbalance, discovered to also be filled with Luminova to balance the lollipop tip. And there was the retro-styled TWC logo (Timex Watch Company?) engraved into the crown. And there was the narrow polished edge of the brushed silver ring surrounding the dial, noticed when it caught the light ‘just so’ in a hallway.
You’re sure to discover these and more yourself as you wear the watch. They provide small sparkles of joy as the design reveals itself over time.
I was perhaps most surprised and pleased by the accuracy my watch provides; I’ve very consistently seen it staying between -0.4 and +2.5 seconds per day, a remarkable performance for a movement with a stated range of -5 to +30 spd on the Catena website. Timex claims the movement will deliver -15 to +15 spd, and my experience certainly is well within those boundaries.
I’ve worn the watch on the original steel oyster-style bracelet quite a bit, but also ventured into olive green sailcloth, black textured rubber (both from BluShark), and even have enjoyed a long run with the Uncle Straps ‘razorwire’ bracelet based on a 1970s Maruman design. I’ve found a lot to love about the watch on all these. Perhaps my favorite was the pairing with a medium size, flattened-segment polished Milanese bracelet (EACHE on Amazon) and I really appreciate the echoes of the bezel edge in the Milanese texture.
The Marine M1a is a quiet design. Perhaps the most outspoken feature is the set of horizontal lume-filled lines surrounding the bezel’s 12 index pip. I smiled upon recognizing the Mini Cooper logo nestled there.
It’s a satisfying experience to wear this watch. Perhaps a good deal of my pleasure is the fact that I’ve been collecting Galli-designed watches for about twenty years now, and this release became a bit of vindication for my offbeat fascination with Giorgio Galli’s history of unique Nautica designs. While that elevates my appreciation, it is not a necessary context for others to appreciate and enjoy the watch—there is a strong appeal to this watch that I’ve observed nearly everyone experience when trying it on.
And “trying it on” may be a challenge for many; though special limited edition Timex models have occasionally been available in Nordstrom, Macy’s or the NYC Todd Snyder location, there has been no mention yet of any retail presence for the new brand. Perhaps that network of Authorized Dealers is still in process?
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The head scratching attributes: movement choice, ghost date, and bracelet concerns
There are certainly some aspects of the watch that will make a seasoned watch enthusiast scratch their heads.
The Marine M1a selection of the 29 jewel SA100 movement from relatively unknown Swiss movement maker, Catena, has raised many eyebrows. (As has the choice of the relatively unknown Landeron 24 movement by Landeron Swiss Movements in the GMT24 M1a.) More on this topic can be reviewed on CaliberCorner.com. Had this caliber choice been explained in some way in one or two interviews with launch-review journalists, or during launch of the GMT24 at NYC Windup Watch Fair, the question may have been quickly addressed and been put aside.
Timex did not choose to let us in on their reasoning, however, and the early Marine M1a review by Ariel Adams at A Blog To Watch simply cast more light and new questions on that puzzling choice, with specific mention of the very modest 36 hour power reserve for this movement. Timex Group has always relied on external movement suppliers for their luxury brand models, including ETA and Sellita. This continues the break with that history that began with select Ferragamo and Versace Swiss-made models in recent years. Perhaps there is a Swiss movement acquisition in Timex’s future, dependent on the performance of these key Atelier movements?
Then, there’s the presence of the obsessively ridiculed ‘ghost date’ position on the crown This is the middle position typically used by watches with a date or GMT function to allow selective change of those complications without affecting the set time. Hacking, the ability to stop a second hand while setting the watch’s time, typically is not activated until the crown is pulled all the way out to its farthest, time-setting position. There’s a vocal population of watch enthusiasts who find the inclusion of a middle crown position, as on the Marine M1a, that is not used in any way, a decidedly sloppy design decision. It does not affect watch operations in any way, but its very presence is unsettling to this cadre of commentators. I understand the criticism—it would seem to have been a small thing to have selected a movement variant without the date-specific crown mechanics or position. I conjecture that perhaps there is an economic reason. If the Marine M1a will see a version released with a date window (at 3?) it could have made a difference in movement pricing and negotiating to be seeking only a single movement from Catena rather than two.
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And we come finally to the oyster-style three segment bracelet and its tension-closure butterfly clasp. Some question this closure mechanism on a dive watch. Was a double lock clasp simply left off the development plan? Plenty of enthusiasts find this a puzzling choice for a tool watch. The watch bracelet latch is quite secure, and I find this a groundless criticism. I have no plans to don a diving suit and drop beneath the waves in a serious dive, so the criticism of the clasp seems petty to me—but it may not be so to you if your use of a $1000 dive watch dictates a particular robustness that my desk diving never demands.
As for the I-Size feature, it’s an amazing inclusion, and I believe it was first introduced in the Galli S2 Titanium at its January 2025 release. Since that time, this system has been seen in several Timex watches, and it may well come to be Timex’s standard for bracelet adjustment. Is the included licensed I-Size link removal system sufficiently unique to justify the use in the Atelier family, embedded in a rather plain oyster bracelet with minimal additional detail beyond the hollowed-out link side profiles? Personally, I’d like to see a jubilee-styled five- or seven-segment bracelet option, but I’m not sure that would accommodate the ‘lift-and-twist’ I-Size system without some modification. Adaptation may not be possible at all—though perhaps a handful of adjustable links could be differently constructed on the back side of the bracelet? I do agree with those who have lamented the lack of on-wrist ‘micro’ adjustment and the absence of ‘half-links’ for customizing the bracelet to wrist. I’d also like to see separately sold Atelier compatible straps and bracelets from the Timex Atelier online shop. These would be welcome additions, and those close to Timex have heard rumors these may be coming.
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Questions yet to be answered by Timex
There remain a few more challenges for Timex to conquer, beyond watch design, specifications and performance…
What will Timex do to address their ‘brand disconnect’ between historical Timex brand affordability and adding the new Atelier upmarket brand?
There are scores of forum threads and reddit threads echoing the question, “Would you pay over $1000 for a Timex?” Though a dozen or more ‘expensive’ Timex-manufactured models now exist revealing that Timex fully intends to occupy this new up-market position, the long and storied history of the Timex brand has been nearly entirely aimed at making reliable and affordable watches, and that tradition can be a negative within public perception of their new extended upward positioning.
Though this is addressed somewhat through the many collaborations the brand has pursued in the past years, watches released with exclusive and niche brands like The James Brand or Jacquie Aiche, Timex will need to perform some serious marketing sleight of hand to broaden the awareness and deepen the relationship with the enthusiast sector for more widespread acceptance. That may only take time.
Is Timex fully prepared to take on the higher expectations and new responsibilities as a brand appealing to watch enthusiasts and entry-luxury?
The mechanical Marlin’s reappearance, and the spat of circa-$500-750 products introduced squarely in the enthusiast space begs many questions. These questions become even more salient as the Timex Atelier brand gains a growing user base. The choice of the distinctive Catena SA100 in the Marine M1a and the Landeron 24 base movement in the GMT24 M1a has caused no small amount of concern over the ongoing servicing of these upscale products, compounding the pressures.
- Will Timex prepare for more upscale watch repairs? Will they rely on Warranty servicing or continue to do whole watch or maybe movement replacement?
- What kind of availability will be added for parts? Traditionally, Timex would sell a model for a few years, and cease any servicing shortly after. Will original Timex and Timex Atelier parts now become available to watchmakers or direct to owners?
- Will Timex be establishing a network of Authorized Service Centers or adding watchmaker certification to provide direct support to the dwindling independent watch servicing industry?
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Final Thoughts
The new Marine M1a from Timex Atelier has made a big splash, and it’s clear that Timex Group is invested in this new segment, with plans to build a full offering over time. The diver is a beautiful and elegant watch that will likely make many new buyers extraordinarily pleased. The movement choice will need to prove itself in the market over time, but appears to be performing well thus far. But Timex has real challenges to overcome on this journey—their tradition and heritage are both a positive and also somewhat of a millstone around their necks, as multiple generations of watch buyers, particularly enthusiasts, have a very hard time pairing the Timex name with a near-luxury Swiss watch. Timex must also step up with specific statements concerning their ongoing watch support and commitment to future product servicing befitting a luxury brand. This will make entirely new demands on the Timex organization that they have not traditionally had to consider from this new perspective.
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About the Author
Michael Compeau has made a career of education, organic analytical chemistry, new product development, and technology marketing. Somehow, over time, he acquired many, many watches, as well as the stories which bring them to life. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
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Mike did good. I really love where Timex is going and I see them as a legacy historical brand. Yes they make cheaper affordable watches, but I don’t think that should stop anyone from looking at these.
“I appreciate the kind words, Dan. And, obviously, I share your opinion that Timex’s new Atelier family deserves a close look.
There are open issues, to be sure, and I hope Timex quickly closes the information gap on some of those I raise in the article. I also expect that like any firm venturing out into new territory, there will be bumps along the road, and the real test will be how Timex Atelier reacts and responds to those situations as well. The groundwork is well laid.