Article by Marc Levesque
Photography by Bob Allaby
A Radiant Return to Classic Compressor Diving
Over a year ago, I covered Sherpa’s collaboration with The Real Time Show podcast on Worn & Wound for a special edition release. It was an effort that, as I noted at the time, was part of their broader ambition to reanimate the spirit of the original Sherpa / Enicar super-compressor lineage. Today, I return to Sherpa, but this time to assess the Ultradive Sun.
When a small independent brand revives a legendary vintage design, the risk is high: reverence can tip into pastiche, and ambition into overreach. With the Ultradive Sun, Sherpa (the modern incarnation) largely walks that line with restraint, and I believe that for enthusiasts willing to suspend a bit of skepticism, the payoff can be seductive.
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Key Features of the Sherpa Ultradive Sun
Aesthetic identity
At 40 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm thick, the Ultradive Sun fits squarely into what one expects of a modern reinterpretation of the compressor-era diver. The fully polished stainless steel case, in concert with the curved, box-style sapphire crystal, crafts a silhouette that is simultaneously bold and elegant. The case also features stunning concave curves on its rear profile that lead up to a tastefully decorated, screwed-down case back.
What immediately draws the eye (and holds it) is the dial. Sherpa describes the Sun as having a domed dial with a sunray-brushed finish coated in rose gold (salmon-leaning) tones. The effect is warm, but not overstated and far from a “salmon bomb”; the tone feels consciously balanced. The applied, faceted baton indices are black-coated on their inner faces, with X1 Super-LumiNova tips that provide subtle contrast, helping maintain legibility without disrupting the dial’s cohesion. The hands continue the same faceted theme, with mirror-polished surfaces that dance in ambient light and, at times, whisper of dress-watch refinement, at times insisting on tool-watch legibility.
I appreciate how Sherpa resisted over-designing the inner rotating bezel ring: stripped of the previous orange line, which would have been a visual call-back to earlier Ultradive models, the ring instead recedes nicely into the composition.
The date window at 3 o’clock is quietly integrated, with a white background and red numerals. A noticeable touch, but not distracting. At certain angles, the beveled surfaces of the markers and hands catch stray light and produce small bursts of brightness, giving the dial depth and dynamism that breathe beyond the salmon tone.
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Case, crowns & water resistance
Sherpa leans fully into the compressor heritage here. Rather than screw-down crowns, the Ultradive Sun uses MONOFLEX compressor crowns, engineered such that the case and crown geometry squeeze tighter under pressure. This is an echo of EPSA’s original philosophy. The crown at 2 o’clock controls the inner rotating bezel; the 4 o’clock crown handles time and date setting. The fluted crowns are well protected by the asymmetrical guard on the right side of the case.
The case back is Sherpa’s EPSA-STOP bayonet compressor configuration, another nod to vintage designs. Water resistance is rated at 200 m / 20 bar, which is modest by modern dive standards, but aligns with the brand’s positioning and functional expectations. Honestly, this is well beyond anyone’s actual needs.
Some will question the absence of screw-down crowns, particularly at this price point. But objectively, the engineering is credible, and the crown action, especially the bezel control, is smooth and satisfying.
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Movement & the “Spiritual Complication”
Under the dial, Sherpa houses their Mantramatic MM01, a modified version of the Sellita SW200-1 in Top-Grade form. It runs at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) with a ~38-hour power reserve. What sets it apart, if only in branding, is Sherpa’s inclusion of laser-engraved micro Tibetan Buddhist prayer wheels on two wheels of the movement, inscribed with the mantra Om Mani Peme Hung. The idea, according to the brand, is that the movement quietly emits “good vibes” 30 million times a year.
That concept is unlikely to sway a technical purist, but it adds emotional texture, especially in a watch rooted in revival and identity. From a purely functional standpoint, the movement is a proven workhorse (don’t you hate it when reviewers like me use that term?); its finishing, with gilt accents and custom rotor, is a tasteful touch, though it doesn’t aim to compete with haute horology.
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Wearing experience
On the wrist, the Ultradive Sun wears more comfortably than raw specs might suggest. Its lug-to-lug is 49.3 mm, and it’s not a slim diver, but the lugs are angled, and the all-polished case visually lightens its bulk. It should also be noted that without the crystal, the case is only 10mm thick.
The tropic-style vulcanized rubber strap, made in partnership with Joseph Bonnie, is supple and sits well; Sherpa offers multiple strap colors to match or contrast (olive green, grey, orange, and ivory). The one included with our review sample had a bold scent of vacation. Not exactly vanilla, not quite coconut, but very similar to suntan lotion. It also came with a special Sherpa-signed tang buckle featuring one notch of fine adjustment. Push or pull the outer part of the buckle to adjust the size between the holes. This is an innovative system that deserves to be featured on more watches.
The reasonably high polish does make the case a bit of a fingerprint magnet, but that’s the trade-off for ambient sparkle. The bezel control is pleasingly frictionless. Definitely not sloppy, but confidently smooth. The crowns have just enough feedback. From my vantage, using the internal bezel feels more tactile and precise than some external ones I’ve tested.
Pros & Cons
Pros
- Authentic compressor construction with modern reliability
- Gorgeous warm sun-brushed dial with balanced legibility
- Unique “spiritual complication” adds narrative depth
- Excellent comfort and wearability at 40 mm
- High-quality materials and assembly in Germany and Switzerland
Cons
- 38-hour power reserve feels short in 2025
- A fully polished case can be prone to smudges
- Price ($6,700USD) places it against stiff Swiss competition
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Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40mm Diameter 49.3mm Lug to Lug 13.5mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Caseback True Compressor Case Interior Rotating Bezel 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Curved Sapphire Crystal Domed “Salmon” Dial Pencil Handset Diamond-cut Markers X1 Super-LumiNova® |
| Movement | Mantramatic MM01 Top Grade 28 800bph 38-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Tropic-stye Rubber |
Sherpa Ultradive Sun
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More than the sum of its parts @timetogo1978
Final Thoughts
At its listed price, the Ultradive Sun positions itself firmly in the premium microbrand/independent tier. Some critics will inevitably compare that price to what else is available (e.g., higher power reserves, exotic materials, boutique-scale manufacturing). Indeed, forum voices have expressed skepticism that a movement based on an SW200 justifies such a premium.
However, as with many incubator or revival projects, the value is partly symbolic: you’re not just buying a dial and case, but buying the narrative (heritage, philosophy, passion). Sherpa is reanimating the spirit of the Enicar Sherpa and, to an extent, the original EPSA compressor ethos. That alone appeals to a subset of collectors. The execution, in my view, is strong enough to justify consideration.
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In sum: The Sherpa Ultradive Sun is a beautifully idiosyncratic dive watch: elegant, yet serious; classic, yet bold. It may not be the technical bargain of the year, but it is a watch with heart, one that invites conversation, reflection, and occasional admiration. If your tastes lean toward watches with stories, the Ultradive Sun deserves a close look.
In a sea of sterile reissues, the Ultradive Sun stands out not because it’s louder or bolder, but because it’s felt. It’s the kind of watch that hums quietly on the wrist, its warmth, literal and philosophical, serving as a reminder that even in the most technical realms of horology, there’s still room for soul.
About the author
Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.
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