When the Moon Turns White: A Collector’s Reflection on the White Dial Omega Speedmaster Professional

By Brent Robillard

I thought I had my mind made up.

When Omega dropped the 2nd Generation First Omega in Space last October, I was convinced it was the brand’s best release of 2024. Everything about it seemed to land just right—the balanced 39.7mm case, the straight lugs, the cleaner dial layout sans crown guards. A faithful nod to the CK2998 lineage that first rode on Wally Schirra’s wrist back in 1962, but with a few modern refinements that made it feel quietly special. On paper—and on screen—it was my ideal Speedy.

But, what about the white dial Moonwatch, you say? Well, I wasn’t convinced. In my mind, a white dialed Speedmaster Professional was strictly for those who already owned the classic black dial. Right?

White dial Speedmaster vs the 2nd Generation First Omega in Space — The one that started it all: the CK2998 Omega Speedmaster @calibre321

And, Omega’s relationship with white dials wasn’t new, after all. There was the 1997 Albino Speedmaster, the Mitsukoshi dial variant from the early 2000s, and the Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy models that turned the idea of a white dial Speedy into something almost mythical.

When I first saw the press images, I appreciated it for what it was—a fresh take on a familiar form—but I didn’t think twice. The FOiS still held my heart. For me, that lovely blued dial in the FOiS just seemed to call out.

That changed this past April when I found myself at the Omega boutique in Vancouver, holding both side by side.

The FOiS, as expected, was splendid. The long, pointed lugs and slightly domed crystal catch the light beautifully, and the lack of “Professional” on the dial keeps it quietly elegant. But then I picked up the white dial Speedmaster, and something shifted. Under the boutique lights, the lacquer dial wasn’t the sterile, clinical white I’d assumed—it was warmer, softer, and carried a subtle depth that almost felt luminous. Maybe it was the way the light diffused through the vintage-styled sapphire crystal. Or maybe it was just my brain recalibrating what a Moonwatch could be.

The truth is, the 2024 white lacquer dial Professional—felt different. It wasn’t a limited edition or a boutique exclusive. It wasn’t trying to be a collectible. It was just… part of the family. And maybe that’s why it threw me off.

So, when Omega offered to send one over a few weeks ago for some meaningful hands-on time, I thought I could settle this internal debate once and for all. Instead, it complicated everything.

Let me just say that the black PVD hands were a smart move. On a pure white dial, legibility is always the risk, but Omega nailed the contrast. The familiar tri-compax layout is all there, of course, powered by the METAS-certified Calibre 3861—a movement that bridges Moonwatch tradition with modern precision. Flip it over, and you get a sapphire caseback framing the same gorgeous co-axial chronometer movement seen in the contemporary Professional.

But there’s also a certain rawness to the classic Speedmaster Professional—the black dial, the hesalite crystal, the tool watch energy that’s more Apollo 11 than art piece. It’s what makes the Speedy such a beloved icon: it’s a watch that’s earned its scars. The FOiS, in contrast, leans more into vintage refinement. It’s not about the Moon; it’s about the early days of possibility, before NASA ever got involved.

But the white dial Speedmaster sits somewhere between those two worlds. It’s unmistakably a Moonwatch, yet visually lighter, more open, even a bit more optimistic. It’s the same watch we’ve always known—same case shape, same step dial, same bracelet—but the white dial reframes the entire personality.

I’ve caught myself staring at it more often than I’d like to admit. There’s something calming about it. The kind of watch you could wear year-round and never feel like you’re trying too hard. I can already picture it paired with a faded NATO strap in summer or tucked under a cuff in winter, the dial catching just enough light to remind you that not all Moonwatches need to be black.

And to be honest, I’ve been swapping in straps left, right, and centre, like a maniac since it arrived. Everything just seems to work. My friend and Time2Calibrate cohost Marc (and fellow TCW writer) would be horrified to learn I wear it on anything but the bracelet. So let’s just keep that secret to ourselves.

I still love the FOiS. In many ways, it’s the purist’s choice—the distilled, early-era Speedmaster with cleaner lines and historical charm. But after spending time with the white dial Professional, I can’t shake the feeling that Omega might have captured lightning in a bottle. Again.

Maybe it’s the contrast fatigue of a world full of black dials. Maybe it’s the quiet confidence of a brand that knows its legacy is secure enough to play with it. Or maybe, just maybe, it’s me realizing that even after years of collecting, I’m still capable of being surprised.

Either way, it’s a good problem to have.

Perhaps, I should also point out that I am writing this in the thick of a Hunter Moon. And I can only dream in white.