Tessé Watches: The Journey of Thomas Brissiaud and the Michel GMT

by Brent Robillard

Devoted to time

Independent watchmaking is often described as a labour of love, but in the case of Tessé Watches, that phrase feels almost too modest. For founder Thomas Brissiaud, every detail—whether a subtle bevel, the curvature of a sapphire crystal, or the hue of a 1970s-inspired dial—is an expression of devotion. His first watch, the Michel GMT, which we’ve previously reviewed on The Calibrated Wrist, revealed not only a refined design language but also the patience, care, and obsession required to create something truly memorable.

Brissiaud, who also penned The Forgotten Innovations of 70s Watchmaking—a book we’ve covered here before—spoke with us about the journey from an initial spark of inspiration to a finished watch. His words offer a window into the creative, technical, and human process that defines Tessé.

From Spark to Steel

“The creative process for a new Tessé watch often begins with a spark—a striking architectural shape, the lines of a vintage plane, or, in the case of the Michel GMT, my grandfather’s watch,” Brissiaud explains. That personal heirloom became the foundation of his vision: a timepiece that could have belonged to the 1970s, yet refined for today with cleaner lines and sharper finishes.

Finding the right partners, however, was not simple. “When I first started prototyping, I went with a manufacturer that, in hindsight, wasn’t the right fit. The early prototypes didn’t reflect the vision I had, so I started over.” What followed was a lesson in perseverance and in the collaborative spirit of independent watchmaking. “With guidance from other microbrand owners, I found partners who shared the same vision. The microbrand world is remarkably collaborative—brand owners exchange insights, warn about pitfalls, and accelerate the learning curve.”

The Two-Year Journey of the Michel GMT

It took nearly two years for the Michel GMT to move from sketch to finished product. “The dial was one of the most intricate elements,” he recalls. “Textures, printing, and colour all had to work harmoniously. Each shade had to reflect the watch’s 70s DNA while feeling contemporary.” Multiple finishes—matte, sunburst, layered tones—were tested before finding the right balance of vibrancy and legibility.

But if the dial was exacting, the case proved even more challenging. “I had a precise vision for how every surface should interact with light, which meant multiple rounds of iteration. More than half of the first production run was rejected in quality control.” Every brushed, polished, and etched surface had to be masked and finished in a meticulous sequence. The result is a case that feels architectural, rewarding light and touch in equal measure.

The Signature of Tessé

When asked what gives Tessé its unique signature, Brissiaud points immediately to finishing and detail. The Michel GMT’s case combines a tonneau and cushion form, with etched sides, polished rings, brushed surfaces, and bevels that play with the light. Even the crystal received special attention: initially designed to sit flush, it was raised slightly with a more complex seal to create subtle visual distortion.

“There’s also a small indentation between the lugs, so the strap hugs the case perfectly with no visible gap—a detail I’m borderline obsessive about,” he admits. To protect those surfaces, Tessé applies an 1800 HV surface treatment while preserving crisp transitions. Inside and out, the watch is built to reward close inspection.

The Balance Between Ideal and Reality

Independent watchmaking is also about compromise—but carefully measured. “I start from the ideal and work backward only when necessary,” Brissiaud says. “If a partner says ‘not possible,’ I ask why. Often the solution is a small process tweak… Sometimes it’s just a matter of pushing a little harder.” His approach is to adapt only where it doesn’t diminish the design and to push relentlessly where it does.

“Sometimes, it’s just a matter of pushing a little harder.” @calibre321

What Comes Next

The Michel GMT established Tessé’s DNA: “architectural discipline, layered detailing, and uncompromising finishing.” Now, Brissiaud is expanding the collection. This fall he will launch The Architect, a three-hand, no-date timekeeper with a dial composed of 21 separate components, including 13 luminous blocks. “Every detail is designed to catch the light, reward close inspection, and echo the layered sophistication of the case.”

Future plans include new complications—such as small seconds or jump-hour displays—alongside bold colourways for the Michel GMT inspired by vintage racing cars. For Brissiaud, the focus remains on refinement: “My focus is on refining Tessé’s own design language and elevating execution with each release.”

“My focus is on refining Tessé’s own design language and elevating execution with each release.” @calibre321

The Journey

Thomas Brissiaud’s journey is proof of what independent watchmaking can achieve when it pairs obsessive attention to detail with creative vision. Tessé Watches is still young, but in its short history it has already carved out a reputation for architectural precision and emotional resonance—timepieces that feel as much sculpted as they are manufactured.