by Brent Robillard
A Modern Tool Watch Rooted in Heritage
There’s something satisfying about a watch that knows exactly what it is. The MKII Fulcrum 39mm isn’t trying to be flashy or trend-setting—it’s just a solid, thoughtfully made tool watch. I’ve had the No Date 12-Hour bezel model in for review for a over a week now, and it’s quietly impressed me in a way that doesn’t scream for attention. Instead, it gets under your skin with details that speak to purpose, clarity, and a real sense of legacy.
A quick personal note before diving in: this watch was originally sent to me by Jake Witkin of the Covalent Connective way back on January 13th. Unfortunately, it got “lost” in transit—thanks, USPS—and I’d written it off entirely. But when I got home from Watches and Wonders last week, there it was waiting for me. Nearly three months late, but none the worse for wear. In some weird way, that unplanned delay feels appropriate for a watch like this. It’s patient, under the radar, and built to endure a little drama.
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MKII and Tornek-Rayville
Before getting into the watch itself, it’s worth talking about MKII’s founder, Bill Yao. Yao has built something pretty rare in the watch world: a brand that blends vintage military aesthetics with modern functionality, all without veering into cosplay or nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. MKII has always had one foot in history and the other in utility. With his second project, Tornek-Rayville, he leans even more into military heritage, but MKII remains the platform where those ideas are translated into accessible, ready-to-wear pieces. The Fulcrum 39mm feels like the sweet spot where those philosophies converge—historical nods, but not beholden to the past.
This watch is an evolution, both of MKII’s original Fulcrum and of the Rolex MilSub, the famed military-issued Submariner produced for the British Ministry of Defence in the 1970s. It carries the DNA of both while refining the proportions and updating the materials.
The MilSub: A Brief History
The Rolex Military Submariner—affectionately known as the MilSub—is one of those rare watches where myth and function meet. Issued to British Special Forces, these watches were built for abuse. They came equipped with fixed bars for NATO straps, fully graduated bezels, sword hands for visibility, and a no-nonsense matte dial. Only a few thousand were made, and even fewer survive today in original condition.
These days, MilSubs are locked away in safes or sold at auction for prices that would make your eyes water. And that’s the thing—they were made to be used, not hoarded. Which brings us back to the Fulcrum 39mm. It’s a watch that channels the spirit of the MilSub, but one you can actually wear the way it was meant to be worn.
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Key Features of the MKII Fulcrum 39mm
Case and Dimensions
The Fulcrum 39mm wears incredibly well. At 39mm in diameter with a 47mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of about 14.1mm, it hits that Goldilocks zone—big enough to feel substantial, small enough to stay out of the way. The case is made from 316L stainless steel with a finely executed blasted, matte finish that feels purposeful without being rough. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters, which is more than enough for recreational diving or just knocking around on a weekend hike.
One of my favorite touches is the bezel—particularly the “toothy” edge. It’s grippy without being sharp, easy to turn with wet hands or gloves, and just fun to interact with. The 12-hour bezel version adds some nice versatility for travel or tracking a second time zone. It’s a detail that balances the aesthetic of a diver with the utility of a field watch.
Dial and Hands: Form Meets Function
The dial is printed, which keeps with the tool watch vibe. No applied indices here, just clean, legible markings with a crisp execution. The sword hands are filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova, which glows with a cool blue in the dark—bright enough to be useful, but not overpowering. The sapphire crystal is slightly domed and features an anti-reflective coating on the underside. It gives the watch a clarity that’s much appreciated in direct light.
Movement: Simplicity and Reliability
Inside the Fulcrum 39mm is the Miyota 90S5, a Japanese-made automatic movement with hacking, hand-winding, and—critically for this no-date version—no ghost date position. It’s a clean, practical choice that fits the ethos of the watch. You’re not getting extravagant finishing or high-frequency specs here, but what you are getting is durability and ease of service. The 90S5 does its job quietly and dependably, which is exactly what you want from a watch like this.
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Straps and Wearability
Out of the box, the Fulcrum 39mm ships with a stainless steel bracelet, a rubber band, and a nylon NATO strap. The bracelet is solid, with screw links and a milled, micro-adjusting clasp from NodeX—it’s well-executed, if a bit conservative. The NATO strap, on the other hand, feels like a more natural fit, especially given the military inspiration. I threw it on a Bond strap, for obvious reasons. And love it that way.
World-Building the Fulcrum
MKII went a step further with the release of the Fulcrum 39mm by creating a small-format ‘zine that tells a fictional backstory for the watch. It imagines the Fulcrum as standard-issue for a fictional American special operations unit, complete with mission briefings, gear evaluations, and field notes. It’s speculative fiction dressed as a field manual—a kind of alternate-history approach that frames the watch as if it had a real military pedigree.
The execution is lo-fi and believable, intentionally avoiding the polished, glossy vibe of typical product catalogs. Instead, it feels like something you’d find tucked in a rucksack, shared between soldiers, or handed out during deployment. It’s a creative and fun way to deepen the watch’s narrative, and a very on-brand move for MKII: quiet world-building with obsessive attention to detail.
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 39.5mm Diameter 47mm Lug to Lug 14.1mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Unidirectional 120-click Bezel Screw Down Crown & Case Back 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Matte Black Dial Printed Markers Sword Handset BGW9 Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Miyota 90S5 24 Jewels 28 800bph 42-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | NATO, Rubber Strap, and Stainless Steel Bracelet /w NodeX Clasp |
MKII Fulcrum 39mm
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Final Thoughts
In short, the MKII Fulcrum 39mm is a watch for people who want to wear their gear, not worship it. It gives you the rugged charm and proportions of a MilSub without the stress of owning a priceless artifact. And in staying true to its purpose—not just through design, but through storytelling and usability—it ends up being something quietly compelling: a tool watch with a plausible past and a very practical present.
Pricing & Availability
The first batch of the MKII Fulcrum 39mm retails for $995USD and sold out almost immediately. You can sign up on the brand website for details on the expected restock.
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Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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Rolex vibes are unmistakable here, but man, this is a nice piece