Trematic Archivo Uno Ref. 502: A Classic and Elegant Dress Watch

Article by Marc Levesque; photos by Brent Robillard

Like a phoenix from the ashes

It is no secret that the quartz crisis of the late 1970s decimated the Swiss watch industry as we knew it. Many brands were fighting for survival, and many did not survive. Since the industry’s renaissance in the late 1990s, especially with the rise of internet watch communities, blogs, and social media, many renowned old brands have experienced a revival. Trematic Watch Company is one such brand. Daniele Campagnano aims to restore Trematic to its former glory and beyond like a phoenix rising from the ashes.

Their Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 502 is in for review. It is a model that appeared in their back catalog during the golden years of watchmaking. They consider the 502 a classic and elegant dress watch, embodying a timeless style with a vintage soul. Let’s explore this further and determine how accurate their description is.

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Key features of the Trematic Archivo Uno Ref. 502

Case and dimensions

Let’s begin by discussing the dimensions. The Archivio Uno Ref. 502 polished stainless steel case has a diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 45.5mm, and a sleek thickness of just 9mm. The case back sinks into the wrist when worn, making the profile appear slimmer. This elegant design is topped with a domed sapphire crystal with internal and external anti-reflective coatings. The beautifully modified Cornes de Vache lugs that curve downwards and wrap around the wrist enhance the visual effect.

Pie anyone?

Beneath the crystal is a black convex pie-pan dial featuring applied wedge-shaped markers and rose gold numerals. These numerals have an art-deco font reminiscent of yesteryear, complementing the watch beautifully. One design feature that I absolutely adore and that always brings a smile to my face is the minute hand, which has a curve that matches the curvature of the dial. It’s rare to find this detail in watches at this price point. However, while the hour hand is long enough, the seconds hand is too short and would have benefited from having a similar curvature as the minute hand.

Swiss movement

Finishing the dial details is a printed white minute track that sits close to the dial’s center, which explains the short seconds hand but does not excuse it. The brand name is positioned above the pinion at noon, and below it is the word “automatic” along with “26 rubies,” indicating the jewel count in the movement. Speaking of movement, a Swiss Made Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200-1 beats away inside. This caliber operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4HZ) and has a power reserve of 41 hours.

The distinction between this movement’s standard and Elaboré grades lies in their adjustment processes. The standard grade is adjusted in two positions, achieving an accuracy of +/- 12 seconds per day to +/- 30 seconds per day. In contrast, the Elaboré grade is adjusted in three positions, providing a higher accuracy of +/- 7 seconds per day to +/- 20 seconds per day. While I understand why many people appreciate display backs, I am pleased that this watch does not have one. This likely helped maintain its slim profile.

A crowning achievement

The Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 502 is water-resistant up to 50 meters, thanks in part to its solid case back, which is securely screwed into the case. Although the crown does not screw down, it has an attractive shape and offers ample grip for easy use. Keeping it secured to your wrist is a 20mm strap made of vegan material derived from fruits and includes a quick-release system for easy strap changes. The strap also features a signed, beautifully crafted milled buckle with two matching keepers.

Specs

Case	316L Stainless Steel 38 Diameter 45.5mm Lug to Lug 9mm Thick /w Glass Screw Down Case Back 50m Water Resistance
Dial & Crystal	Sapphire Crystal Convex “Pie Pan” Dial Applied Index Dauphine Hands
Movement	Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200-1 28 800bph 26 Jewels 41-Hour Power Reserve
Strap	Vegan Leather

Trematic Archivo Uno Ref. 502

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Final Thoughts on the Archivo Uno

If you’re like me and admire vintage timepieces but are weary of owning any due to their fragile nature and because they are potential watchmaking bills waiting to happen. The Trematic Archivio Uno Ref. 502 might be precisely what the doctor ordered. It is well made, thoughtfully designed, and looks just as appealing today as it would have 75 years ago. Additionally, its proportions cater to modern tastes and should fit wrists of any size. All this in a Swiss-made watch costing under $1,000 USD is remarkable.

I honestly believe they have successfully created a timeless watch with a vintage soul. Now, if you’ll excuse me, the Trematic Archivio Uno and I are meeting some chums at the neighborhood speakeasy, and we are fashionably late.

About the author

Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.

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