“Gilty” Pleasures
Since the appearance of the Black Bay GMT at Baselworld in 2018, it is fair to say that brand enthusiasts have been clamouring for a BB58-sized version of the same. Well, now we have it. Sort of. Perhaps one of the most hotly-anticipated and immediately debated releases of this year’s relatively staid Watches & Wonders has to be the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT.
Despite years of waiting, Tudor aficionados took to social media soon after the launch with hot takes on the new design. Some fell head over heels, some didn’t fall at all. The issue? Gilt.
In an industry where controversy stems over fractions of millimetres, it is not surprising that something as seemingly insignificant as gilt highlights could throw collectors into apoplexy. Okay, perhaps ‘apoplexy’ is a mild exaggeration…but, is it? Really?
No matter. I am just going to come out and say it. I like the watch–gilty pleasures and all.
Key Features of the Black Bay 58 GMT
The new case will look relatively familiar to most, from a distance. Like the original Black Bay 58, it is 39mm in diameter and 47.8mm lug to lug. Official specs place the watch at 12.8mm thick to accommodate for the GMT function, but it may actually be a little thicker than this with the domed crystal. Either way, this is a leaner, meaner machine than either the Black Bay GMT or the Black Bay Pro. And I can truly say that on wrist, it feels incredibly well-balanced and ergonomic.
The lug width is an athletic 20mm and the watch comes on the Oyster-style rivet bracelet, or a choice of rubber with steel endlinks. Both feature the much-lauded T-Fit system for simple comfort-adjust.
The crystal is a lovely sapphire dome, and of course the crown and sterile case back are screwed down to help with the 200m of water resistance.
My favourite aspect of the new GMT is its controversial bezel. I love the faded colour and gilt highlights. In some respect, I see the gilt is a nod to the original BB58–like a kind of homage to what came before. My only disappointment come in the inverted triangular indicator at twelve, which is painted rather than having a lumed pip.
These highlights are reflected in the hands and polished surrounds of the dial itself. Even the dial text is done in a soft gold. Given the vintage nature of the Black Bay 58 Collection, I think the colourway works very well.
METAS-certified chronometer
The Black Bay 58 GMT gets its own movement: the MT5450-U. It’s a 4 Hz calibre equipped with a anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and a solid 65-hour reserve. Carrying forward from last year’s Burgundy and this year’s Monochrome, the manufacture movement is a METAS-certified master chronometer. The BB 58 GMT is a flyer, or “jumping-hour,” GMT–meaning that the hour hand can be manipulated independently, making travel over multiple time zones easy. Additionally, with the addition of a 24-hour bezel, you could reasonably track up to three time zones.
Check out the Tudor Black Bay P01
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 39mm Diameter 47.8mm Lug to Lug 12.8mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Case Back 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal Black Dial Applied Markers Snowflake Handset Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | MT5450-U GMT METAS Certified Chronometer 34 Jewels 28 800bph 65-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet, or Rubber Strap /w T-Fit Clasp |
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
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Final Thoughts
What is it that they say, “Be careful what you wish for…” Aside from affirming that the Black Bay 58 GMT is a great offering from Tudor, I can also say that the controversy over gilt did not seem to hurt the popularity of the Tudor booth at Watches & Wonders. The brand was overrun on the public days. Between this, the Monochrome, and the gold BB58 on the bracelet, it was another good year for Tudor–who have appeared to move from success to success since 2012. If a Coke bezel is not your thing, and you can’t get over the gilt, all I can say is give it a year. This is only the beginning.
Pricing & Availability
The Black Bay 58 GMT Monochrome is available now for $4 350USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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