The Tudor Black Bay Burgundy Dive Watch

A Full-Bodied Red

Last year at Watches & Wonders, participants needed a double take when Tudor announced the release of the Black Bay Master Chronometer. And who could blame them? The Black Bay Burgundy understandably conjured fresh images of the original Black Bay from 2012—the distinctive hue of its satiny bezel insert, the snow flake handset and familiar case sizing. Been there, done that?

It certainly seemed that way. Besides there was a certain little 37mm diver stealing all the press, anyway.

But now that the hype train has left the station—and we are still a few weeks out from the next—I think it only fair to revisit what may have been Tudor’s best release from 2023.

Key Features of the Black Bay Burgundy

While the new Black Bay Burgundy remains 41mm in diameter, and a rather long 50mm lug to lug, Tudor has managed to shave almost a full millimeter from the case thickness—reigning the watch into 13.6mm in height. But frankly, this is most definitely one of those instances where dimensions don’t tell the entire story.

Sunburst dial with gilt highlights @calibre321

My wrist is a fairly average 6¾” (17.15mm); however, the Black Bay Burgundy feels just perfect on the rivet bracelet—as it is featured here. It is, of course, also available on a lovely five-link jubilee-style, as well as a fitted black rubber strap with steel endlinks. And, yes, it has the now hallowed T-fit clasp.

The dial has undergone changes, as well. For one, the finish is no longer matte, but a subtle sunburst brown which has a very tropical feel about it. Paired with the gilt accents, the dial looks more uniform and mature. There is more depth as well. And despite the familiar snowflake handset, we are treated to a lollipop seconds this time around. On the whole, it just has a more authentic vintage vibe.

The bezel, in my opinion, is particularly attractive—and not just the charming tone of red in the aluminum insert. The knurling in the bezel edge itself looks more, well…edgy and robust. Toolish, rather than fine.

Master Chronometer

But perhaps the biggest upgrade in the Black Bay Burgundy has nothing to do with appearance at all. In fact, you can’t even see it. And that’s the new manufacture movement from the brand’s Kenissi facility in Le Locle.

The MT5602-U is both COSC and METAS certified—which is to say both accurate and robust. The calibre should run with 0/+5 seconds a day and be resistant to magnetic fields up to 15 000 gauss. The watch also promises 200m of water resistance and provides a 70-hour power reserve while still beating away at 4Hz.

SPECS

Case	316L Stainless Steel 41mm Diameter 50mm Lug to Lug 13.6mm Thick 22mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Case Back 200m Water Resistance
Dial & Crystal	Sapphire Crystal Sunburst Dial Applied Markers Snowflake Handset Super-LumiNova
Movement	MT5602-U METAS Certified Master Chronometer 25 Jewels 28 800bph 70-Hour Power Reserve
Strap	Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet /w T-Fit Clasp

Tudor Black Bay Burgundy

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Final Thoughts

One can’t help but think that Tudor has placed a target on the back of OMEGA with this new and improved Black Bay. Sharp styling with utilitarian functionality and an over-engineered (but much appreciated) in house movement? Yes, please.

Battling it out on either side of the $5000 threshold, the Black Bay Burgundy and the Seamaster 300M look like formidable opponents without much to choose between them. I can’t wait to see what Watches & Wonders brings us this year.

Pricing & Availability

The Black Bay Burgundy retails for $4 450 USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.

About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.

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