Looking Good at 70
Longines has had a lot to celebrate over the last few years. The brand turned 190 in 2022, after all. When you’ve been around that long, you are bound to have a few milestones worth commemorating. This year is the 70th Anniversary of their Conquest Collection. You may have noticed the redesign of the brand’s sporty line last year—alongside the addition of a racing chronograph. Conversely, this year is all about elegance and mid-century sophistication. I’m referring to the new Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve.
Imagine sipping cognac and smoking Pall Malls in the Belvedere Room of the Astor Hotel, before stepping out to the Metropolitan Opera House for a performance by Judy Garland and you’re in the right state of mind.
Key Features of the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
This latest iteration of the Conquest Heritage is a reinterpretation of a Longines reference from 1959. This 35mm gem featured an uncommon complication at the centre of the dial that indicated the power remaining in the mainspring through a rotating disk. It ran the Longines calibre 294—a manual movement with 24 jewels.
Aesthetically reminiscent, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve honours the original in an updated stainless steel case of 38mm in diameter and 45.6mm lug to lug. It has a more athletic lug width of 19mm and is a little on the thick side for a dress watch at 12.3mm in height. Though part of this is due to the lovely box sapphire crystal.
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The watch is finished in satin brushing along the mid-case, though the overall impression is one of polish, thanks to the mirror-like shine of the bezel and beveled lugs. The case back is screw down, with a second piece of sapphire glass to display the Longines-exclusive L896.5—a decidedly contemporary addition, featuring a 64-hour power reserve. It contains a silicon balance spring and surpasses the ISO 764 anti-magnetic standard by ten times.
Even more interesting than the image we see through the exhibition case back, however, is the way the calibre plays out on the dial. The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, like the original, features an elegant power reserve indicator—in the form of a small baton—that is linked to the gradual uncoiling of the mainspring over its 64-hour run time. This is represented by the movement of two discs at centre of the dial.
This method of tracking the power reserve, invented by Longines originally, is so harmoniously integrated into the overall design that it is almost invisible as a complication. At first blush, we see only a graceful sector-style dial with an inner index. The only giveaway is the odd 64-hour scale.
While there are three colourways available in this new collection, here we are featuring the particularly refined champagne dial with its applied gilt hour markers and trapezoidal appliqué date window at twelve. I am especially fond of the skyscraper handset and its elongated syringe-style shaping, which does much to rekindle the mid-century likeness of New York City’s skyline.
The watch comes on an appropriate alligator-styled leather band with stainless steel hardware.
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 38mm Diameter 45.6mm Lug to Lug 12.3mm Thick 19mm Lug Width Display Case Back 50m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Box Sapphire Crystal Champagne Dial Applied Markers Skyscraper Handset Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Calibre L896.5 Power Reserve Indicator 25 200bph 72-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Alligator Leather /w Stainless Steel Buckle |
The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
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Final Thoughts
This deceptively simple watch is the result of some relatively complex engineering–but frankly, it just looks great. The dial has a beautiful symmetry. Its clean and well-balanced. The finishing is crisp and it really loves the light. Even from the back, with its blued screws, perlage, and cotes de Genève striping, the watch can’t help but impress. Implementing the power reserve into this design so seamlessly is no small feat.
What you get with the new Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is an attractive mid-century aesthetic with contemporary chops. It wears well and looks like a million bucks.
Pricing & Availability
The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve retails for $3800 USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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Yep…well said..this Beauty belongs to a bygone era . The vibe is definitely NYC skyline..the ballroom and the glamour of Broadway and the supremely talented vocals of a diva. A watch that has captured the era that gave the world some of the most impressive advances in design. So exquisite and perfectly presented . Great article and stunning photography. Sparkles.
Really glad you liked it!