Longines Strike Gold with the Master Collection GMT

Wings of Gold

Longines have achieved real traction, of late, with the GMT complication. Perhaps it should come as no surprise that a brand steeped in aviation history would also make a good travel watch—having developed a dual time pocket watch as early as 1908. However, the 2022 Spirit Zulu Time and its smaller iteration—the Zulu Time 39—along with last year’s surprise HydroConquest GMT, have certainly made a solid appeal among enthusiasts. Clearly, the watchmaker is hoping to strike gold again in 2024 with the early release of its Longines Master Collection GMT.

Available in two references—the 18K yellow gold featured here, and a rose gold variation—the watches are limited to only 500 pieces each.

Longines Master Collection GMT Watch Review — Longines Master Collection GMT @calibre321

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Key Features of the Longines Master Collection GMT

The 40mm case is a much softer sinuous design than either the Zulu Time or the HydroConquest collections that came before it. It features elegant, rounded edges, devoid of bevels or chamfers, and flowing mid-case lines that seem to hug the bezel before turning down into slightly flared lugs. If you are thinking that 40mm is not in line with the downward trend in case sizing, my calipers place the lug to lug at a compact 46.5mm, and a case thickness of only 10.4mm. On its fine alligator strap, the watch sits comfortably on my 6 ¾” wrist.

The lithe silhouette is complimented by an equally graceful, frosted silver dial. The Roman numeral hour markers—fashioned in gold to match the case—strike a fine balance with the much more understated Breguet Arabics in the angled 24-hour track of the chapter ring. They also toy playfully with the light. The delicate leaf hands are also gilt apart from the darker GMT indicator.

These various elements, which speak to traditional watchmaking, are also present in other models from the Longines Master Class Collection—a range launched almost two decades ago in 2005 as a nod to the brand’s classical watchmaking heritage.

The Master Collection GMT is powered by the familiar jumping-hour L844.5 calibre. Made exclusively for Longines by their Swatch Group partner, ETA, the same base movement appears in the HydroConquest GMT. A COSC-certified variation was also introduced in the Zulu Time a year earlier. The 3.5Hz movement is equipped with 21 jewels and a power reserve of up to 72 hours. Thanks, in part, to its silicon balance spring, the calibre surpasses ISO 764 standards for anti-magnetism by tenfold.

Special attention has been paid to decoration here, as evidenced through the sapphire exhibition case back—particularly with the addition of a gold rotor with Geneva stripes, which is truly set off by the perlage in the bridgework beneath.

SPECS

Case	18K Gold 40mm Diameter 46.5mm Lug to Lug 10.4mm Thick 21mm Lug Width Display Case Back 30m Water Resistance
Dial & Crystal	Sapphire Crystal /w AR Frosted Silver Dial Applied Gold Markers Leaf Handset Date Window @ 6
Movement	L844.5 21 Jewels 25 200bph 72-Hour Power Reserve
Strap	Anthracite Alligator Strap /w Gold Clasp

Longines Master Collection GMT

Final Thoughts

Longines has had an incredible run over the last few years, with 2023 being a particular highlight. The brand is starting the new year strong with the Master Collection GMT. It’s a lot dressier than their Spirit line or their popular Conquest redesign from last year. Not known, of late, for their work with precious metals, the Master Collection GMT comes off as a tossed gauntlet, of sorts, to competitors.

Longines have certainly done well with their heritage reissues, but this is a bird of different feather. It’s sleeker and much more refined.

I have to wonder why the brand did not take the extra pains to have the movement COSC certified as they did with the Zulu Time–given its price point, for instance. But neither the Zulu Time nor the HydroConquest GMT are going to scratch the same itch as the Master Collection GMT. If you are looking at this watch, you are after the exclusivity.

Pricing & Availability

The Longines Master Collection GMT is available now for $14 750USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.

About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.

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