Breitling’s most recent incarnation of the famed Superocean is an attractive reworking with heavy nods toward the past—particularly to the brand’s own 60s-era ‘Slow Motion’ diver’s chronograph. Characterized by a broad, striking chapter ring and bold block indicators, the new diver cuts a brash figure. While the models featured here are the 42mm, Breitling have released references to suit all wrists at 36, 44, and 46mm, as well.
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Gone are the familiar Arabics at six, nine, and twelve. In their place we find a mix of squares, rectangles, and a wedge at at the top of the dial. They are wide and contoured in razor-sharp polished steel. Their sheer size reduces the dial real estate significantly—particularly when coupled with the white chapter ring—essentially shrinking your perception of the watch’s 42mm diameter. The handset is designed to match the robust indicators and there is a vintage-styled lollipop seconds, as well. The resulting design is highly legible and flooded in Super-LumiNova for low light conditions, to boot.
Surrounding the dial is a deeply-toothed bezel flange with a scratch-resistant ceramic insert. As to be expected, the action is crisp and snappy with no back-play. Partial guards encase the screw down crown, and in the 46mm iteration, these are matched with a knurled, bezel-lock prominence on the far side of the watch. In the smaller references, however, the watch is asymmetrical.
Ultimately, there is nothing subtle about the new Superocean. But that is also part of its charm. So is the mix of retro and modern cues, which coalesce nicely here.
This iteration is 12.56mm thick and 47.7mm lug to lug. It is brushed across the lug tops and along the case sides with a chamfer of polish separating the two that extends over the crown guards. The bezel, crown, and case back are also buffed to a mirror shine.
For a slab-sided diver, there are a surprising number of planes and slopes and tapers that give the watch a nice organic depth—a characteristic that is also visible in the dial with its broad, sloping chapter ring. The stark contrast in colour pallettes across the new collection also contribute to the effect.
The Superocean is water resistant to 300m. In addition to its screw down crown and case back, the watch is capped in a gently domed sapphire crystal that helps in this effect. In true Breitling form, it is treated in a double-sided, multi-layer application of AR which all but eliminates glare and unwanted reflections.
Powering the Superocean is Breitling’s Calibre 17. The ETA-based movement offers a smooth-sweeping 4Hz beat rate and 38-hour power reserve. While it is pretty much a workhorse, it has been regulated to COSC certifications.
The diver is available on Breitling’s angled 3-link bracelet or on a textured rubber strap with a micro-adjusting deployant clasp.
SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 42mm Diameter 47.7mm Lug to Lug 12.56mm Thick 22mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Case Back 120-Click Uni-directional Ceramic Bezel 300m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Sapphire Crystal /w AR Applied Markers Pencil and Block Handset Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | B17 (ETA-base) 25 Jewels 28 800bph 38-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Steel 3-Link Bracelet or Rubber /w Deployant Clasp |
Breitling Superocean Automatic 42
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Of Interest
The new Superocean Automatic 42 is one of the most wearable and polyvalent ‘true’ divers that I’ve had on wrist this year. The impressively restrained lug to lug, coupled with the corresponding lug slope and taper, allow the watch to really sit well on wrist. The brutish design cues and functional focus leave you with no doubt of its toolish intentions; however, there are also elements of luxury that make this perfect when paired with a button-down shirt. It captures the essence of a professional dive watch while maintaining an air of elegance that is quintessentially Breitling.
Quibbles
The deployant clasp on the rubber strap is a thing of beauty with fine chamfering, a robust push-button release, and easily manipulated, on-the-fly micro-adjust; however, I am not a fan of the raised centre line which is polished. This just cries out, “scratch me.”
Final Thoughts
In the realm of high-performance dive watches, the Breitling Superocean shines—literally and figuratively–as a beacon of quality and craftsmanship. Its meticulous design, impeccable engineering, and unmistakable Breitling DNA make it an enticing choice for watch aficionados and divers alike. Whether you’re diving into the depths of the ocean or navigating the currents of daily life, the Breitling Superocean is a steadfast companion that embodies both style and substance. This redesign is a sure winner in my book.
The Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 retails for $5000USD on rubber and $5200USD on the bracelet. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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