The recent resurgence of French watchmaker, YEMA, has seen the unearthing—and rebirthing—of numerous classics from the brand’s back catalogue. During the 1960s, when YEMA became the largest French exporter of timepieces on the back of its hugely popular Superman diver, the brand was producing and shipping more than 500 000 watches a year. Many of these timepieces were rebranded to avoid increased production costs through taxes—most notably as Le Jour, but also as numerous other more obscure references, like Zeenat. Today YEMA launches yet another classic from the sixties in a newly redesigned Sous-Marine.
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The Sous-Marine came in many forms over the years, but perhaps the most popular was the early skin diver-inspired silhouette that the watchmaker has seized upon for this latest release. Distinguished by its short, squared off lugs and squat crown guards, the Sous-Marine lived in the shadow of the Superman for the majority of its existence. Now it takes the spotlight in a revamped and colourful sector-style dial and a vintage-inspired beads of rice bracelet.
The Sous-Marine comes in a 40.5mm stainless steel case and a restrained 46mm lug to lug. The watch is only 12.2mm thick—including the 2.3mm sapphire dome—which is slim for a 300m diver. It has circular brushing across the top and polish on the sides and lug tips. The large, knurled crown screws down into the partial protectors and is signed with the brand logo. The case back, also screwed down, sports a highly polished embossing of the YEMA coat-of-arms in a field of stippling and more circular brushing. From the side, the steep taper of the lugs is visible, enhancing the comfortable on wrist experience.
There are five different colourways available, each with a satin-finished aluminum bezel insert—three with matching dials and two in contrasting black. The bezel, itself, is a smooth 120-click unidirectional actuation with serrated wedge knurling for a decent grip. It sits at a slight angle to meet the sapphire dome.
The sector dial has a recessed hour track around the interior into which bleed large wedge markers at the cardinal points. Around this is a series of polished retro-style baton indices and an angled chapter ring with a minute track. A final line of silver in the rehaut encapsulates all. The stark use of white in the vibrant colour fields, and contrasting black, makes for a highly legible dial. This is extended after dark by the healthy application of BGW9 Super-LumiNova in the markers and pencil-styled hands.
Despite being a reissue of sorts, the watch maintains a very contemporary aesthetic due in part to the dominance of its dial. However, small cues—such as the baton indices, bezel markings, and sapphire dome—do conjure up a vintage spirit. Nothing, though, feels quite so vintage as a beads of rice bracelet. This iteration is quite solid with a double-folding clasp and diver’s extension. Not shown here is the fitted FKM Viton rubber strap, which is available in all dial colours. With its 20mm lug width, the watch is sure to be an aftermarket strap monster, as well.
Powering the Sous-Marine is the second generation, in-house YEMA2000 with a beat rate of 28 800 and a power reserve of 42-hours. It promise accuracy to with -10/+10 seconds/day.
SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40.5mm Diameter 46mm Lug to Lug 12.2mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Case Back 120-Click Unidirectional Bezel 300m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal /w AR Sector Dial Applied Markers Pencil Handset BGW9 Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | YEMA2000 29 Jewels 28 800bph 42-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Beads of Rice /w Double-Folding Clasp FKM Viton Rubber |
YEMA Sous-Marine
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Of Interest
The YEMA Sous Marine watch was first introduced in the 1960s during a time when diving and exploration were becoming increasingly popular activities. The watch was designed to cater to the needs of both professional divers and diving enthusiasts, offering features that were essential for underwater exploration. The YEMA Sous Marine gained attention for its rugged design, water resistance, and reliable timekeeping. It was one of the early dive watches to feature a unidirectional rotating bezel, which is a crucial feature for tracking elapsed time underwater. The watch also had luminous markers and hands, making it easy to read in low-light conditions.
Similar to the Sous-Marine casemaker from that same era, who produced waterproof cases for a number of lesser-known brands like Prestige, Tinnes, and Kelbert, early YEMA Sous-Marine cases were characterized by thick walls and short square lugs. Where it differs is in the use of crown guards—a carry-over from the brand’s more popular Superman, minus the bezel lock system. YEMA produced the Sous-Marine through the 1970s and into the 80s, eventually with a wide variety of case shapes and functions—including countdown bezels, chronographs and even bezel-less references.
Quibbles
The next step in the YEMA evolution has to be a ratcheting, micro-adjusting clasp.
Final Thoughts
The YEMA Sous-Marine melds the old with the new in what feels like a very contemporary design with just the right mix of vintage nods. Given that these watches fall under $1000USD, offer up 300m of water resistance, in-house automatic movements, and a sixty-year heritage, its tough not to think that they offer good value for money. Legibility is a definite strength here. Sizing is perfect. And there is a certain flair in the colour choices. Coming, as they do, at the tale end of summer, makes me think that YEMA has also chosen the perfect timing for one last kick at the can.
The YEMA Sous-Marine retails for $990USD on the bracelet and $890 on the rubber. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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It looks incredible and I’d probably venture to strap one on my wrist… but I’m still waiting on my Wristmaster Microrotor that has been almost a year in production without adequate updates… Beyond that, I believe this is a great value with the in-house movement.
The microtor is a huge leap forward for the brand. Would love to know your thoughts when it arrives!
I can always pop it in the mail for a review‼️👍🏽😎
Hmmm😏