By Brent Robillard
Lists can help bring order to chaos
I write this article with a number of caveats. The first is that I wish only to include watches I have handled myself. I do not think it is authentic to rave about timepieces I have no experience with. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA – SLGB001/003 may well have made my list; the Calibre 9RB2 is a mechanical wonder, and Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired dials remain a dream in execution. But I have no real sense of how it wears. And I refuse to guess.
Second, I want this list to reflect attainable luxury—attainable in the way that a stretch goal feels like embracing a moment rather than a lifetime of austerity. I could easily have included the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold. I had the opportunity to try it on this year, and it is every bit the mechanical marvel you’d expect. It should absolutely appear on someone’s “best of” list. But very few people will ever own one. So it doesn’t belong here.
Finally—and perhaps most importantly—this list is limited by my imagination and taste. Chronographs and divers abound. I’m sorry. Then again, maybe I’m not. Perhaps, then, the title should include one final caveat: IMHO.
We’ve tried similar articles every year for the last five, often dividing watches by price or by type. But these categories always felt limiting. I was forever tempted to add honourable mentions. So this year, I’ve freed myself entirely from that structure. This list is in no particular order and reflects only the whims of its writer—aka, moi.
Please let me know what you think. And feel free to drop your own lists in the comments.
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The best watches of 2025 under 10K
Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback
This is the best watch Longines has produced since 2017’s Big Eye Chronograph. I could have chosen the Spirit Zulu Time 1925—an excellent watch with dual-time functionality and a marketing campaign as considered as the watch itself. But the Spirit Pilot Flyback grabbed me the moment I handled it at the brand’s novelties reveal in New York this March.
It isn’t the 13ZN. It doesn’t pretend to be. Instead, it delivers a contemporary take on an important complication—flyback chronograph functionality—paired with excellent ergonomics and finishing for the price. It’s what enthusiasts have been asking for, and Longines—finally—has listened.
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Isotope Flyway Terra Maris
Had the Moonshot Terra Maris arrived earlier last year, it would have made my 2024 list. Alas, it missed the cut-off. But José Miranda’s brand absolutely deserves recognition here. Isotope watches walk that tightrope between whimsy and innovation, and the Flyway does it with style.
The hyperbolic paraboloid crystal—sci-fi name and all—sets it apart. And while this crystal isn’t unique in the broader watch world, you’d otherwise need to purchase a Richard Mille RM 33-03 to get anything remotely similar. That one starts at 115,000 CHF. Enough said.
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Serica 5303 PLD Amagnetic Dive Chronometer
Jérôme Burgert can spin a story as effortlessly as he can design a watch. When we met in Geneva earlier this year, seated on a patio fronting the Beau Rivage and overlooking the jet d’eau, he began with: “Let me tell you a story.” And the 5303 PLD Amagnetic Chronometer was the story.
The linen-dialed 1074 Parade models show his breadth, but the 5303 remains the soul of the brand—industrial, refined, purposeful. COSC-certified, amagnetic to 50,000A/m, and unmistakably Serica.
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Hanhart 417 ES Flyback Heritage
Everyone I have met from Hanhart is a genuinely good person, and CEO Felix Wallner is the rare leader who is both passionate and present. This, in truth, should not influence my choice—but I’m human.
Even without that, the 417 ES Flyback Heritage deserves its place on this list. The return of the flyback functionality, the iconic red pusher, the upgraded movement visible through a sapphire caseback—all of it reinforces what Hanhart does best: honour its history while advancing it thoughtfully.
A tool watch with a heartbeat.
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Tudor Pelagos Ultra
The industry buzz at Watches and Wonders this year centred around the white-dial Black Bay Pro, but the Pelagos Ultra was the real showstopper for me. There is something ineffable—some “secret sauce”—to how it wears. Despite its specification-sheet bravado (1000m water resistance, helium escape valve, titanium construction), it remains comfortable even on my 6¾” wrist.
People often say Tudor is “affordable Rolex.” I say Tudor is Rolex if you rewind the clock thirty or forty years: thoughtful, aspirational, attainable—and the perfect choice to commemorate life’s milestones.
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Sinn 613 St UTC
Given my penchant for storytelling, you might assume I’d choose the Sinn U15 here—after all, submarine steel from a decommissioned vessel is the stuff of legend. But the 613 St UTC offers something rarer: restraint and capability rolled into one.
A mechanical diving chronograph with a GMT complication, built like a tank, executed with Sinn’s characteristic Germanic clarity—all under $4K USD. What more could we possibly need?
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RZE UTD-8000
Yes, you can knock this list because I genuinely like many of the people behind these brands. But consider this: people often become friends when there is mutual respect—for craft, for perspective, for shared passions. In the case of RZE, that passion is the outdoors.
Like The Calibrated Wrist, RZE celebrates its fifth anniversary this year. They are innovators and community builders as much as they are watchmakers. The UTD-8000—housing their very own digital module—is proof. Microbrands don’t usually innovate in this direction. RZE did. And it paid off.
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Straum x Fratello Jan Mayen Titanium Limited Edition
Lasse Roxrud Farstad is everything you’d expect of a successful entrepreneur: detail-oriented, exacting, quietly relentless. Straum’s Jan Mayen dials are already industry standouts, but the new quick-release strap system and the micro-adjusting clasp (on the bracelet) demonstrate a truth often forgotten: innovation is not the sole purview of large brands.
Grand Seiko’s dial artisans should keep an eye on Norway.
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AWAKE Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Golden Hour
Founders Lillian Thibault and Thibault Sacré have turned a philosophy into a brand. In the Sơn Mài Silver Leaf series, the artisanal lacquer tradition meets irreverent modernity—and environmental purpose.
I chose the Golden Hour because it was created specifically for the Toronto Timepiece Show this year, but any piece from the collection would be deserving. These watches are wearable art, meaningful not only for their beauty but for the intention behind them.
Christopher Ward C12 Loco
If you’ve met Mike Pearson—Christopher Ward’s North American Brand Director—you already understand the brand’s direction of travel. Enthusiasm radiates outward from the man. But enthusiasm alone doesn’t build a juggernaut. The C12 Loco makes a convincing case that Christopher Ward has moved beyond the “microbrand” descriptor for good.
If the Bel Canto was the brand’s breakout single, the C12 Loco is the moment they planted their flag. The design, the engineering, the campaign, and even the documentary film—everything about this release feels confident.
Christopher Ward is no longer the underdog. But, were they ever?
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Other Watchy Bits include op-ed pieces and articles of general interest. We’d love to hear your opinion in the comments section below.
Please understand that using any links to products on this site may result in us making money.
I like that the list is different and varied. I know this breaks your price limit, but I love the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets. Probably my favourite at W&W this year. But I would see the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer here. Under 5K!
I saw the tank at Watches and Wonders. It’s beautiful. It’s the NOMOS I need to get my hands on! Cheers
The Spirit and Hanhart flybacks are both beauties! The RZE has some really cool and retro about it though 😎
I am increasingly a soft touch for a great chronograph. But, yes, the UTD reminds me of the watches of my youth–perhaps a little tougher, though. Cheers!
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time
Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine AT8284-61A
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision
Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm
Tudor Pelagos Ultra +1
Full disclosure: I didn’t see all of these in the metal. But I want to. Does that count 😉
This is a great list. We can see where your interest lies! Have a good one.
The Timex Atelier Marine and the GMT24 need some love!
I can’t argue with you there. Timex is looking like a very different brand of late!
I have the Pelagos ultra and the heritage flyback. Both great watches! Another worthwhile mention is the new manual wound Hamilton khaki with power reserve indicator
The Khaki is a great watch. Congrats on the other two! Excellent pick ups!
The Flyway!!!!!
Glad I could oblige, lol!
As a seiko fan:
– Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211
– Seiko Speedtimer SPB513
For pilot watches
– Longines BigEYE
– IWC Mark XX
Icon
– Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
Great watches. Cheers!
My favorite releases of this year (in no particular order, only those that fit my slim wrist):
Hanhart 417 ES flyback 39
Tag Carrera Glassbox Purple
Longines Spirit Flyback
JLC Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds – A boring classing, but a classic nonetheless
Seiko Speedtimer
Grand Seiko SBGW232
Nomos Club Sport Worldtimer
That NOMOS looks like a hit. I wish I could get hands on. But, obviously agree completely with both Flybacks! Great choices!
Great choices!
The Ultra is one of my latest additions, and it is just great. I have a 7 7/8” wrist and just feels so comfortable. So much so, it has not been on anything but the titanium bracelet!
Are-Zed-Eee. I’ve listened to those guys on a few podcasts, and agree with you on all accounts. And, one is a pilot (I just retired from a 45 year pilot career) for one of my fave airlines! The Hanhart, Isotope and Awake Son Mai 🔥😍 I was able to put on wrist in Toronto, and came away very impressed.
Nice job!
Thanks for the feedback! And congrats on the Ultra 👊🏼
Fun exercise. Interestingly enough I realized while compiling a list that most of the watches I thought came out this year was actually in 2024.
Anyway, I agree with a number of the watches here, especially Awake. But didn’t the Son Mai come out in 2024?
Here’s my list of new watch models. If considering existing models with new dials/colorways, I’d add the GS SLGW007, the new Fears Brunswick 38, a bunch of Isotope, and a few others. But that feels like cheating.
1: Nomos Club Sport Worldtimer. I don’t think anything else comes close to this watch. The bracelet sucks though.
2: (a very distant second) CW Twelve 660
3: I don’t want to mention a brand more than once, but damn, CW has been on a tear this year. The Loco, new Jump Hour, and Lumiere. The only one I’d consider purchasing is the Lumiere (if it were a 38-40mm), but still. The loco is especially impressive.
4: Farer Lissom. Beautiful case.
5: I dunno, maybe some of those new crazy high end Timexes. They’re not necessarily for me but I respect them for what they’re doing at the ~$1k price point.
Honorable mention for CW and Tissot finally listening and providing a Goldilocks 38mm size to their Twelve and PRX models.
Finalizing a list is never easy! Thanks for playing along👊🏼
my “shortlist” :-):
– Tudor Pelagos Ultra
– Tudor Pelagos FXD m25717n-0001
– Tudor BlackBay Pro m79470-0001
– Tudor Black Bay Chrono m79360n-0013
– Straum × TRTS Jan Mayen Titanium Stormy Seas
– Straum × Time+Tide Jan Mayen Titanium
– OW RALLYCHRON ‘COUPE DES ALPES’
– OW M-52 ALL UNITS
– OW 8001 HAVANA
– Maen Lunar Classic 36
– Chronofixe ASTERIX
– Micromilspec DUALTIMER
– Sinn U50 S L
– Sinn 556 I RS
– AIRAIN TYPE 20 70 ANS
– Studio Underd0g x FEARS The Gimlet
– Vertex M100A
– Vertex M36
– GRANA Black Original
– Aquastar Model 60 RE-EDITION
– Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT
– Christopher Ward C63 Colchester
– Glycine Combat Sub 42 GL0527
– Glycine Combat Sub 41 Ceramic GL0526
– Massena LAB Uni-Racer
– NODUS Obscura
– NODUS TrailTrekker
– LACO Amazonas 39
– echo/neutra AVERAU CERAMIC 36H
– echo/neutra 1956 3H Warm Gray
– Abinger Nimrod
– Ocean to Orbit LHOTSE
– Anemoic watch
Wow! There are some deep picks in here. It’s a study in tool watches. Cheers!
Loving the RZE, wish it had a dual time function.. chefs kiss
It’s a hot commodity for the brand!
Love the list. These 7 I’ve had on a list in my notes that really made me say “wow” when they were announced. I had a few more, but I really liked these for their innovation and creative design choices.
1. Isotope Flyway Terra Maris (~$2,500)
2. AWAKE Sơn Mài Silver Leaf Golden Hour (~$4,800)
3. TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph ($1,800)
4. Serica 5303 PLD Amagnetic Dive Chronometer (~$1,600)
5. RZE UTD-8000 (~$900)
6. Tudor Pelagos Ultra ($5,950)
7. Hanhart 417 ES Flyback Heritage (~$2,200)
One might almost think that we compared notes! Thanks for sharing👊🏼
Some very interesting choices here. I do like what RZE is up to. Bold step into G-Shock territory.
Very bold indeed!
Great List with completly different watches – I like the Serica most: clean, no logo, great size, under the radar.
Serica is a brand on the move. Thanks for reading👊🏼
Great read! Out of all the watches mentioned in the article, the ones that stand out for me are the Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback, the Tudor Pelagos Ultra, and the Christopher Ward C12 Loco.
Each of these hits a sweet spot in different ways — the Longines brings heritage with a modern twist, the Pelagos packs serious technical substance while remaining wearable, and the C12 Loco feels like an exciting statement piece that shows the brand stepping up its game.
Honestly, if it were up to me, all three would instantly earn a place in my collection
If only we could buy them all! Thanks for the considered feedback. Cheers!
Solid list of watches! Of these my vote goes to the Sinn 613 with the Pelagos Ultra a close second.
The Sinn deserves a truckload of publicity. Great watch. Cheers!
I appreciate your approach to this. Mandatory experience makes your opinions carry far more weight. Well done! That Sinn is spectacular. The only watch I would add is the Jack Mason Strat-O-Timer.
They make an incredible watch. And the Strat-o-timer is a flagship.
Yes!
So happy to see Straum and Awake make the list.
The only one I would also include, Selten.
I don’t think anyone else makes a Black Tahitian MOP dial that is Guilloche. And they make 2 different models with it!
I think Selten is doing great things! Thanks for the feedback!
Great list all around. Love your content!
Cheers!
I want to share two more new releases for this list:
– Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière
– Studio Underd0g x Fears: The 02SERIES Manhattan
Both excellent choices! The Lumière came late, but I would love to see it in hand. Cheers