Article by Marc Levesque
Photography by Bob Allaby
Tactile, thoughtful, and ready for daily use
In my initial introduction for Worn & Wound when these models were launched in January 2025, I discussed Sartory-Billard’s SB04-E collection, which presented two striking new references: the Tantalum Hand-Engraved and the Ruby Platinum. This collection maintains the brand’s artisanal essence while also embracing serial production. Reflecting on them now, with the benefit of time, it’s evident that these are not just intriguing prototypes; they are fully realized, independent watches that are tactile, thoughtful, and ready for daily use.
Why these two? And why now?
Sartory-Billard has always focused on personalization. The SB04, which began in 2020 as a bespoke platform, allowed for extensive customization, including choices for dial materials and hands. However, this came with long wait times and budgets exceeding €4,000, which limited its appeal to a niche market. With the launch of the SB04-E in January 2025, Armand Billard made a bold decision to bring this design philosophy into broader, forward-thinking serial production. This approach aimed to enhance accessibility while maintaining the brand’s distinctive character.
The Ruby Platinum features a unique ruby disc sourced from Tanzania, adorned with a matching platinum-plated outer ring. This model is limited to just 150 pieces. Additionally, the Tantalum Hand-Engraved offers a permanent dial option with intricate engravings, showcasing one of the toughest metals to work with. Now that both models are available, their actual substance beyond mere novelty is becoming evident.
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Key Features of the Sartory-Billard SB04-E Tantalum & SB04-E Ruby Platinum
Foundations first: Case, movement, and design DNA
Both SB04-E variants feature a compact and sleek design, measuring 39.5 mm in diameter and 10.3 mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46 mm. Their design includes a concave bezel and cleverly separated short lugs, which contribute to a mid-sized, elegant appearance. The case back is secured by four Torx screws and features polished fluting around a sapphire glass opening. Its outer edge showcases the watch’s details in relief, including a 100m depth rating. The case surfaces feature alternating brushed and polished finishes, while the lumed screw-down crown adds both practicality and visual appeal.
Below the dial is the G101 automatic caliber from La Joux-Perret. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, features 24 jewels, and has a power reserve of 68 hours, ensuring reliable performance in this price range. Sartory-Billard carefully tunes and finishes the movement; while it may not impress movement purists, it successfully balances substance with style, achieving that beautifully.
That sapphire index disk: both functional and refined
Sartory-Billard’s latest signature piece features a wafer-thin sapphire index disk that measures just 0.3 mm thick. This disk is adorned with diamond-cut even-number markers and pad-printed “Y” markers that include BGW9 luminescence. The index disk adds a layered dimensionality to the dial, showcasing quality without bulk. It ensures thoughtful legibility at night and precise sparkle during the day.
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Tantalum Hand-Engraved: texture by meticulous excess
This watch is designed for tactile purists. At its centre is a hand-engraved tantalum disc, featuring feather-like patterns crafted by Armand himself. This is a remarkable achievement, given the dense and gummy nature of tantalum. Surrounding the central dial is a fumé sunburst outer ring, also made of tantalum, which creates a tone-on-tone complexity instead of sharp contrasts.
You already picked up on it: engraving tantalum is a flex; wearing it is a whisper. The bluish-grey glow of the metal, combined with engraved texture, becomes quietly dynamic under shifting light. You might not wear it to flaunt wealth, but you’ll feel the craft when you tilt your wrist. At €3,500 before VAT, it sits well within the realm of artisanship-driven limited watches.
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Ruby Platinum: gemstone understatement
In contrast, the Ruby Platinum speaks in colour without shouting. The dial’s centre is an authentic ruby slice from Tanzania, machined in Germany to reveal natural crystalline patterns. No two are alike. Surrounding it is a platinum-plated outer ring with sunburst fumé finish. It isn’t a platinum case; the steel case is used for wearability and cost control, which is part of the design’s humility.
Red rarely stays quiet. Here, it remains an elegant flash of colour, a controlled footprint, a monochrome dress with a heart of fire. At €4,700 before VAT and limited to 150 pieces, it teases indulgence without tipping into excess.
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Daily realities: wear, straps, mood, and mindshare
Both are daily-ready in construction, featuring 100 m water resistance, a screw-down crown, a slim case, and wearable geometry. The Delugs CTS* curved rubber straps hug the case closely and deploy via a spring-loaded clasp, offering a functional, sporty, and satisfying experience. Leather alternatives exist, and a bracelet is now available, which will tilt these from “nice casual” to “mainstay one-watch kit” options. However, be forewarned, only curved spring bars will fit in the 20mm wide opening.
*Please note: since our review was complete, the brand has opted for an integrated strap with pin & buckle design.
How they land on the wrist:
- Tantalum: Chin-down, it reads cool, mid-tone, architectural. A watch-enthusiast’s statement that doesn’t have to explain itself; it’s tactile, textured, quietly intelligent.
- Ruby Platinum: Brighter, joyful, still restrained. More extroverted in palette, but not performance wear. You’ll see the stone’s liveliness, guests will notice, and yet it still pairs with tailoring.
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Perspective on value and positioning
When it launched, I mentioned that it is uncommon to find craftsmanship priced under €5,000 while still showcasing artisanal mechanics, and this remains true today. The Tantalum model, priced at €3,500, offers a compelling conversation piece that emphasizes meticulous craftsmanship, while the Ruby model, priced at €4,700, provides a touch of gemstone elegance without being overly flashy. Quill & Pad highlighted these as examples that you don’t need a budget like F.P. Journe’s to acquire watches with independent character. The SB04-E is precisely what hopeful watch-people look for: personality without formula, substance without snobbery. The “E” for Evolution, as Tim Mosso noted, marks a quietly radical shift: these are artisanal watches that invite a place in the everyday, unapologetically indie yet pragmatically real.
Specs
| Case | Titanium 39mm Diameter 46mm Lug to Lug 10mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Lumed Screw Down Crown Concave Bezel 100m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Sapphire Crystal Tantalum: Hand-engraved centre, fumé tantalum outer ring Tantalum Index Disk Ruby Platinum: Tanzanian ruby centre, platinum-plated sunray ring Sapphire Index Disk Diamond-cut Markers BGW9 “Y” Super-LumiNova® |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret G101 24 Jewels 28 800bph 68-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Integrated Rubber |
Sartory-Billard SB04-E Tantalum & SB04-E Ruby Platinum
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La Joux-Perret G101 @timetogo1978
Final Thoughts
When I first introduced these watches on Worn & Wound, they were exciting new references, proof that Sartory-Billard could bridge bespoke and production. Now, as wearer and reviewer, they feel complete. Both variants deliver a compact, robust platform enlivened by profound dial artistry. The Tantalum is meditative and material; the Ruby (Platinum) is vivid yet refined.
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If your taste tugs toward material richness and subtlety, the engraved tantalum invites contemplation. If you want a daily that embodies joy and wild creativity, but in a balanced way, the ruby disc rewards your gaze without boasting.
These are independent watches that make room for real life, rain, desks, sleeves, travel, without trading the “I know who made this” feeling. And that, truly, is what independent watchmaking should be.
Check them out on the brand website for more information.
About the author
Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.
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