Longines Ultra-Chron Diver: A Second Look

by Brent Robillard

High-frequency

Last week, at a press event in New York City, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with Longines’ latest novelties for 2025. While most of those remain under embargo, the brand also brought along a few models from previous launches, including the Ultra-Chron. Given how much I appreciate Longines’ new Spirit and Conquest collections—and considering that I own the Legend Diver 39 and count the Heritage Skin Diver among my all-time favourites—it’s surprising that the Ultra-Chron had eluded me until now.

For those who, like me, may have overlooked this watch when it debuted in 2022, this review offers a second look at what makes the Ultra-Chron Diver stand out.

Longines Ultra-Chron Diver Watch Review — ^{Longines Ultra-Chron Diver @calibre321}

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Key Features of the Longines Ultra-Chron Diver

Case and Dimensions

The Ultra-Chron Diver is substantial in hand and on the wrist. With a 43mm cushion case, a thickness of 13.9mm, and a lug-to-lug measurement of 49mm, it has a bold presence. That said, the cushion case does an excellent job of distributing its size, allowing it to wear more comfortably than the numbers suggest. It has a solid, weighty feel, which is only fitting for a watch built with serious diving credentials. Rated to 300 meters of water resistance, it stays true to its tool-watch roots.

The case features a mix of satin-brushed and polished surfaces that play well with the light, giving it a refined yet robust character. The screw-down crown, which nestles nicely into the case without crown guards, contributes to its vintage-inspired aesthetic.

Crystal, Dial, and Bezel

Up top, a box sapphire crystal—with an anti-reflective coating—gives the Ultra-Chron a slightly retro charm while ensuring durability. Beneath it, the dial is pure vintage appeal with a modern execution. The matte black surface allows the applied, rhodium-plated indices and prominent minute track to stand out, and the red minute hand provides just enough pop to keep things interesting.

The bezel is one of the highlights of this watch. Its sapphire insert offers a depth that shifts dynamically depending on the lighting. At times, it appears almost pitch black, while at others, light reflections reveal subtle dimensionality and a ghostly grey. The unidirectional action is solid, with precise clicks and no play.

Super-LumiNova is applied generously to the hands and markers, ensuring excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The bezel pip is also lumed (as are the bezel numerals), a practical touch for divers and desk divers alike.

Bracelet and Wearability

Longines pairs the Ultra-Chron Diver with a brushed and polished stainless steel, 7-link bracelet that feels well-made and comfortable. It has a vintage-style safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism. While there is also a leather strap option, the bracelet is likely the way to go for most buyers, given the weight and presence of the watch.

On the wrist, the Ultra-Chron is undeniably hefty, but it remains balanced thanks to the case shape. It’s not a watch that disappears, but that’s part of its charm—it demands attention without being unwieldy.

The High-Frequency Calibre

The real story here is the movement. Inside the Ultra-Chron Diver beats the Longines calibre L836.6, a high-frequency automatic movement oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. This isn’t just a marketing gimmick—higher frequency movements have been a part of Longines’ history since the 1950s, with the brand pioneering their use in chronometry competitions and professional timepieces.

The original Ultra-Chron Diver from 1968 was powered by the Longines calibre 431 (a calibre I own in the vintage Ultra-Chron 8024 from 1969), a high-frequency automatic movement also beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. It was developed for superior accuracy, with Longines advertising a daily rate variation of just two seconds per day—an impressive feat for the time. This modern iteration pays tribute to that legacy while incorporating contemporary advancements.

What sets the L836.6 apart is its “ultra-chronometer” certification by TimeLab, an independent Geneva-based testing laboratory. Unlike traditional COSC chronometer certification, which evaluates only the movement, TimeLab tests the entire assembled watch. Over a 15-day period, the Ultra-Chron is subjected to rigorous trials, including exposure to three different temperatures (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C) to ensure its precision meets the stringent ISO 3159:2009 standard. The result is a timepiece that exceeds conventional chronometer benchmarks, reinforcing Longines’ dedication to high-frequency precision.

The benefits of high-frequency movements include improved accuracy and a smoother sweeping seconds hand. The L836.6 also features a silicon balance spring for enhanced resistance to magnetic fields and offers a practical 52-hour power reserve.

SPECS

Case	316L Stainless Steel 43mm Diameter 49mm Lug to Lug 13.9mm Thick 22mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Case Back 120-Click Sapphire Bezel 300m Water Resistance
Dial & Crystal	Sapphire Crystal /w AR Textured Dial Applied Rhodium-plated Markers Baton Handset Super-LumiNova
Movement	L836.6 Chronometer-certified by TimeLab 25 Jewels 36 600bph 52-Hour Power Reserve
Strap	Stainless Steel 7-Link Bracelet Rubber and Leather Strap Options Available

Longines Ultra-Chron Diver

Final Thoughts

The Longines Ultra-Chron Diver is a serious watch with a real historical backbone. It has all the right vintage touches while incorporating modern reliability and finishing. With this year’s release of the Ultra-Chron Carbon, it’s clear that Longines isn’t done exploring high-frequency movements, and I’d wager that we’ll see more additions to the Ultra-Chron family in the years to come.

For those who appreciate Longines’ heritage and want a diver that stands apart from the usual suspects, the Ultra-Chron Diver is well worth a second look.

Pricing & Availability

The Longines Ultra-chron Diver retails for $3600USD ($4500CAD). For more information, please visit the brand website, or shop it at Gem Bijou.

About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.

Take Two articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of vintage and preowned watches and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise.

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