Article by Marc Levesque; photography by Brent Robillard
Down the rabbit hole
Like many collectors, Ben began his journey into watch collecting by modifying Seiko dive watches. It often starts with a simple thought: “I wonder what this or that part would look like on my watch?” Before you know it, you’ve passed Alice down the rabbit hole and are contemplating starting a watch company inspired by designs you admire that are no longer in production. When that happened to Ben, it was in the middle of the Pandemic, in the summer of 2022.
Before we proceed, we need to address the elephant in the room. Imperial Watch Co. heavily borrows design elements from Eberhard & Co., down to the slanted brand name and logo (the watch featured here is a pre-production model; some elements have changed in the final render). According to their website, Imperial’s designs are inspired by vintage sports watches, which is somewhat accurate, but the original design continues today in the form of the Eberhard Scafograf 300 MCMLIX. Despite what they lead us to believe, it has not been lost to time.
This line from their blog: “This look was often inspired by vintage watches that were either no longer in production or were so rare or unique that to find and own one would cost a small fortune.” I quickly found the Eberhard Scafograf 300 for sale for roughly $3,000 from authorized dealers online. That sum is not inconsiderable, but it also is not a fortune. However, a few differences set the Imperial Oceanguard GMT apart as a unique timepiece. Two of them are size and price.
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Key Features of the Imperial Watch Co Oceanguard GMT
Size matters
Now that we’ve mentioned size let’s explore it further. According to my calipers, the Oceanguard GMT measures 38mm in diameter, 14.5mm thick, 47mm from lug to lug, and has an inter-horn width of 20mm. Although it may sound chunky, it’s important to note that nearly 6mm of that thickness is due to the bezel and the box sapphire crystal, so it does not appear or feel overly thick. Considering that the contemporary Eberhard watch has a 43mm diameter, it’s evident that Imperial is catering to modern consumers who prefer smaller watches.
Case
The case of this watch is made from 316L stainless steel, which is predominantly brushed, with a subtle polished chamfer along its vertical edges. This small detail highlights the meticulous attention to detail that has gone into this watch, especially considering its price point. The screw-down case back features a polished edge and a shallow engraving of the Imperial Logo, reminiscent of the Wiz from Seinfeld, along with three commercial jets flying around the perimeter. I applaud the lack of superfluous details that so many companies feel the need to apply.
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I want to highlight another important detail: drilled lugs for easy strap changes. While toolless pinch spring bars are popular these days, I prefer lug holes. This design allows for easy replacement of spring bars when needed, and, honestly, removing a bracelet or strap this way isn’t difficult at all. The signed screw-down crown, which helps keep the watch water-resistant to 200 meters, has a diameter of 7.5mm and does not feature any crown guards.
While I do like the look of some crown guards, they are often executed poorly, and I think they are overrated. In a review I recently watched on YouTube, Tim Masso said that if you ever do something that could shear a crown off while the watch is on your wrist, a broken watch would be the least of your problems. I tend to agree with him. Thanks to its screw-down components, the watch is water resistant to 200 meters.
Balanced proportions
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. In my opinion, the Rolex Submariner 5513 (a vintage model with no date) has one of the most beautiful profiles of any sports watch. While this opinion might stem from over 30 years of conditioning, I genuinely find that profile outstanding. The proportions of the case back, mid-case, bezel, and beautiful acrylic crystal come together perfectly. This may be controversial, but I feel similarly about the Oceanguard GMT. Yes, it may be a little plump, but the proportions simply work.
Bezel
Speaking of working. The watch features a friction, bidirectional, 24-hour dark red and black bezel. To prevent bezel misalignment, the most cost-efficient method is avoiding indexing altogether. This allows the bezel to move freely, leaving alignment entirely up to the wearer. While I enjoy a precisely measured 24-click bezel on a GMT watch, I also value aligning it myself. Furthermore, there is enough resistance to prevent easy movement, and I appreciate that they did not choose gilt coloring for the numerals and markings (I’m looking at you, Tudor).
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Dial
Beneath the 29mm diameter domed sapphire crystal lies a midnight black dial that is both deep and highly reflective. Surrounding the outer edge of the dial is a bright yellow minute track, complemented by yellow borders around all the circular and triangular hour markers. The inverted triangles may lead some collectors to identify this watch as an Eberhard mistakenly. However, Imperial replaced the triangle at 12 o’clock with a circle, only half filled with luminescent material. I believe I’ve seen that circle motif before on a Typsim watch.
One significant difference in the Eberhard design is that Imperial has positioned the large arrowhead on the minute hand rather than the hour hand. This choice adds an interesting touch: when the minute hand points to 3 or 9 o’clock, it completely covers the triangular hour markers. It might sound trivial, but it makes me smile every time. Most of the gold-colored hands are very legible. However, the GMT hand is dark red and tends to blend into the dial, making it harder to read. At its tip, there is a small gold-colored triangle.
Completing the dial is a nod to vintage timepieces. This watch features a roulette-style date wheel that alternates between black and red printing, located at 6 o’clock, appealing to those who appreciate dial symmetry. At the heart of this watch lies the Seiko NH34 automatic GMT movement. This caliber has truly democratized GMT watches, as previously, this complication was typically found only in timepieces exceeding $1000.
Movement
The NH34 operates at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour and is equipped with 24 jewels, bi-directional winding, and an approximate power reserve of 41 hours. From the factory, it is adjusted to maintain time within a range of +40 to -20 seconds per day. During my review period, the Imperial Oceanguard has consistently performed within this timekeeping range. While this movement may lack precision, it compensates with durability. I’ve heard collectors abusing their Seiko watches for over 20 years without servicing while maintaining acceptable timekeeping.
Bracelet
Some people enjoy a jangly watch bracelet that makes a lot of noise when you shake the watch. I, however, am not one of them. In my opinion, the lack of tight tolerances in such bracelets can be a drawback. However, it does have a significant advantage: comfort. When a bracelet is rigid and has no give, it often doesn’t conform well to the wrist. Fortunately, that isn’t the case with this watch. There is plenty of give and plenty of noise, which means it is plenty comfortable to wear.
With polished sides, this brushed bracelet can be described as jubilee-style (are we allowed to call it that?), tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp, enhancing comfort. Sizing is straightforward due to old-school split pins that secure the links together, which can be adjusted using a thumb tack. Best of all, it features a clasp with on-the-fly, tool-free micro-adjustment capabilities. If you’re having trouble getting this watch to fit appropriately, perhaps you’re not wearing watches correctly. I’m trying to say that maybe the watch is not the problem.
Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel Mirror Finish 38mm Diameter 47mm Lug to Lug 20mm Lug width 14.5mm Thick Screw Down Case Back & Crowwn 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Sapphire Crystal Matte Dial Arrow Handset Printed Markers Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | NH34 GMT 24 Jewels 21 600vph 41-Hour Power Rewerve |
| Strap | Jubilee-style Bracelet /w Tool-less Micro-adjust |
Imperial Watch Co. Oceanguard GMT
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Final Thoughts
I may seem a bit critical of this watch, particularly regarding its design claims, and perhaps I am. However, I can’t criticize its performance, size, comfort, and, most importantly, its price. I saved the best detail for last: this watch is priced at only $599 USD. With such an affordable price tag, many shortcomings can be overlooked. After all, isn’t imitation the sincerest form of flattery?
I recommend embracing it instead of denying or avoiding it. If this is their vision of a great watch, they should acknowledge it. Eberhard inspired us and look at what we have created; it’s a homage to a remarkable piece. Not only would this message be more accepted, but people would also be in awe of what they have created for such a low price. There is too much smoke and mirrors in this industry; I believe giving credit where it is due would be fantastic. Of course, that’s just my two cents, and that’s Canadian currency, which isn’t worth much right now.
If you’re looking for a stylish, affordable, 38mm dive-GMT watch and don’t mind fellow collectors potentially asking if that’s an Eberhard on your wrist, the Imperial Oceanguard GMT might be perfect for you. Despite what you might think, I have thoroughly enjoyed my time with it; it sure is photogenic! Side note: The model we have for review is a prototype. Dial printing may differ slightly in production.
Pricing & Availability
The Imperial Watch Co. Oceanguard GMT retails for $599USD. Please visit the website and sign up for the brand newsletter for details on a restock.
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About the author
Based in Montreal, Quebec, Marc has been an enthusiastic watch collector for well over three decades. Having witnessed and participated in the birth of the internet watch community, he has played a role on multiple watch forums and his articles have appeared on-line and in print since the late 1990s. Today his passion for all things horological is as pronounced as it has ever been, while he continues his never-ending search for watch next. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
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Looks great and amazing price but too small. I have a man’s sized wrist and.would never buy a.watch with a case smaller than 40mm. They just look too much like a ladies watch on my wrist. I would own this watch in a bigger case diameter.
I agree with you. I prefer watches in the 40-42mm range, but I’m open to going bigger depending on the shape. However, don’t let smaller dimensions deter you. I recently owned a Tudor Ranger and, even more recently, a Tudor Black Bay Pro, both of which are 39mm. I’m not a tiny guy with a 7.5” wrist, but both watches looked perfectly fine.
The best approach is to try them on, but that can be challenging with brands that only sell online. Brent, our photographer and model for this piece, is not a small guy; this particular piece looks great on him. As a side note, I just finished writing a review of the Venezianico Redentore Bronzo, which will be published here on Thursday. That watch is 40mm, but it has a large dial, making it feel much bigger.
This probably does not help at all. Lol. My advice is not to let the numbers do all the talking. Case shape and dial aperture play a big part. Either way, I’m glad you stopped by to read the review.
Outside of the 12-o’clock marker I think this looks great!