by Brent Robillard
The dark arts
As a long-time fan of Longines, I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing many of their watches, and the Ultra-Chron Carbon is one of the most intriguing pieces I’ve come across, yet. Ordinarily, black watches aren’t my go-to, but this one caught my attention with its bold use of carbon fiber—a first for the brand—and a compelling mix of materials that give it a stealthy, tactical appeal.
The Ultra-Chron collection has always been about precision and innovation, dating back to the original 1968 model with its distinctive cushion-shaped case and high-frequency movement–and further back still to 1966 with the creation of the Ultra-Chron, ref. 7827. In 2022, Longines paid tribute to this heritage with a modern Ultra-Chron, and now, they’ve taken it a step further by introducing an ultra-lightweight carbon case, marking a new chapter in the brand’s history.
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High-Frequency
A watch is considered “high-frequency” when its movement beats at a minimum of 5 Hertz—equivalent to 36,000 vibrations per hour (or 10 per second). Longines has been a pioneer in this field since 1910, when it developed timekeeping instruments accurate to 1/10th of a second, securing its first patent that same year. By 1916, the brand had pushed accuracy even further, timing sports events down to 1/100th of a second. These innovations played a huge role in improving precision for both timekeeping and measurement.
Fast forward to 1959, and Longines took high-frequency technology to the next level by incorporating it into wristwatches for chronometric observatory competitions. This wasn’t just a technical flex—it gave their movements greater stability and precision compared to standard mechanical calibres. Higher frequency meant fewer disruptions from everyday movements, shocks, and sudden position changes, ensuring better accuracy overall.
Key Features of the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon
Design and Wearability
The 43mm case is crafted from unidirectional carbon fiber and epoxy resin, resulting in a unique marbled pattern that makes each watch visually distinct. This process not only enhances durability but also keeps the total weight—including the strap—under 80 grams. The case back, crown, and fixed bezel are all made of titanium, and while I initially found the fixed bezel to be a strange design choice (and I imagine many enthusiasts will find it controversial), I’ve grown to appreciate it. The more time I spend with the watch, the more I like the sleek, lightweight feel and how effortlessly it wears on the wrist. It helps, I think, to consider the Ultra-Chron Carbon like sports watch (or a tool watch), rather than a diver. But even that last comment, I am sure, will come off as divisive. To each his own.
The box sapphire crystal, on the other hand, is a highlight. It’s not only a joy to look at but adds depth and character to the sandblasted anthracite dial, which features applied silver indices and grey PVD-coated hands. A strong application of blue Super-LumiNova ensures legibility in low-light conditions, further reinforcing the watch’s tool-watch DNA.
Performance and Movement
At the heart of the Ultra-Chron Carbon is the Longines-exclusive caliber L.836.6, a high-frequency movement oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz). This high-beat movement enhances stability against shocks and positional variations, while the silicon balance spring and innovative materials provide increased resistance to magnetic fields—up to ten times more than the ISO 764 standard. The watch is fully certified as a chronometer by TIMELAB, undergoing a rigorous 15-day testing period at different temperatures and positions to ensure optimal accuracy. The movement provides a 52-Hour power reserve and the second hand sweep is as smooth as butter.
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Functionality & Water Resistance
The watch is water-resistant to 300 meters (30 bar), making it a capable water sport companion despite its unconventional fixed bezel. It’s paired with a black technical fabric strap that integrates well with the overall aesthetic, secured by a titanium buckle. The entire presentation, from the watch itself to the bespoke black box it comes in, reinforces its modern, high-tech identity. But it also looks fantastic on a NATO strap.
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Specs
| Case | Carbon Fiber Mid-Case /w Titanium Structure 43mm Diameter 48.6mm Lug to Lug 22mm Lug width 14mm Thick Fixed Bezel with 60-minute Scale Screw Down Case Back and Crown 300m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Box Sapphire Crystal Sand-blasted Anthracite Dial Baton Handset (Grey PVD) Applied Silver Index Original Ultra-Chron Logo Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Calibre L836.6 High-frequency (5Hz) 36 000vph Chronometer Certified Silicon Balance Spring (ISO 764) 52-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Black Technical Fabric /w Titanium Tang Buckle |
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon
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Final Thoughts
Despite my initial reservations about the fixed bezel and the all-black aesthetic, the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon has won me over. It pays homage to the original design while somehow managing to come off as entirely contemporary. The juxtaposition of titanium against the carbon case gives it an undeniable cool factor. It’s sleek, lightweight, incredibly well-finished, and feels great on the wrist. You really need to wear it to understand.
In addition, I like to see the brand taking risks and venturing into uncharted waters. I suspect we will see more of this in the coming months–possibly in the Spirit Collection or, more particularly, in the brand’s flagship pieces like the Zulu Time or the Legend Diver. If you’re looking for a unique, high-performance tool watch with a rich legacy, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is worth your consideration.
Pricing & Availability
The watch retails for $4900USD ($6700CAD). Please visit the website for further details.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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This is a stand out watch. Such a unique presence that is bespoke like a gorgeous black silk tuxedo jacket worn over a tailored black jean. The essence of this superb watch is captured in each frame. The backgrounds echo like a moment out on the town – in Paris. 😉
By the way – it doesn’t stop one knowing, with just a glance, this Beauty can handle the tough stuff too. True show stopper .
Thanks for the feedback!