by Brent Robillard
She’s got the looks
I have spoken to a lot of enthusiasts and interviewed some very influential people in the watch sphere over the last four years. I often ask them a variation of the same question, “What draws you to a watch?” The answer, invariably, goes like this, “It’s looks first. Everything else comes after.” For me, the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Inter.Bezel (say that three times fast) has definitely got the looks. It seamlessly blends vintage charm with modern ingenuity to deliver a package that hits me just right. But as an enthusiast, I find myself equally impressed by the craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the historical significance of this reimagined classic.
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Key features of the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaser Aviator Sea Diver Inter.Bezel
Case Materials and Dimensions
The Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver case is crafted from stainless steel and measures a highly wearable 38mm in diameter, with a thickness of 13.7mm. It is also just under 47mm in length, with a lug width of 20mm. These dimensions ensure a comfortable fit on a wide range of wrists while retaining the vintage proportions that pay homage to its mid-20th-century origins. On my 6 ¾” wrist, it sits flat (if a little high) and is well balanced on the tropic strap. Of course, in true Nivada Grenchen fashion there is a host of strap and bracelet options available.
The case had to be largely redesigned in order to facilitate the new Inter.Bezel system; however, it it still retains its retro charm in spades. The polished and brushed surfaces on the case create a striking visual balance, and the double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating provides both durability and excellent legibility. This modern update ensures the watch can withstand the rigours of daily wear while maintaining its vintage aesthetic. I really like slender the bevelled lugs that hint it the watch’s aviator history, and I also enjoy the practicality of the drilled ends for quick strap changes.
The case back is screwed down and solid on this iteration—though a display option is available. It is embossed with the brand logo, and among other engravings, bears mention of the 10ATM—or 100m—of water resistance.
The Singer dial and historical significance
One of the standout features of this watch is the Singer dial, which harks back to the golden age of Swiss watchmaking. The dial is an intricate blend of functionality and elegance, with crisp, legible sub-dials and a rich texture that evokes its historical predecessors. The Chronomaster, first introduced in the 1960s, was celebrated as a multi-functional tool watch for adventurers, pilots, and divers. Nivada Grenchen has successfully retained the spirit of the original design while infusing it with subtle modern refinements.
The “Panda” colourway, with its matte black sub-dials and intricate azurage, recessed in a field of white offers enhanced readability, while the cream-colored luminous indexes and baton-styled hands provide both functionality and style. The chronograph functions are prominently displayed, with a seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. A splash of red on the chronograph seconds hand adds a dynamic touch, and the tachymeter scale around the edge of the dial emphasizes the watch’s sporty character.
Singer, a Swiss manufacturer, who produced dials for Nivada Grenchen also played a pivotal role in creating the dials for Rolex’s Daytona chronographs, particularly during the 1960s and 1970s. The dial which would eventually become known as “the Paul Newman,” has elements that also appear in the Chronomaster. Commonly referred to as the “exotic dial” in Chronomaster lore, it features highly identifiable features in the sub-dials, such as the numeral font, square-tipped hash marks, and red accents.
Interchangeable Bezel System
The highlight of the Chronomaster Aviator Diver Inter.Bezel is, without a doubt, the new interchangeable bezel system. Inspired by Nivada Grenchen’s vintage Colorama VI collection, this feature elevates the watch’s versatility to a new level. The system allows users to effortlessly swap between five distinct bezel options, each serving a unique purpose and showcasing exceptional craftsmanship.
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The four dive-style bezels feature elapsed time scales, perfect for timing underwater adventures or casual day-to-day tasks. The fifth option, a stunning world-time bezel, is my personal favorite. Its vibrant color scheme and practical functionality make it a standout addition to the collection. The aluminum bezels are lightweight yet sturdy, with a premium finish that exudes quality. The colour choices are well thought out, offering tones that range from bold and striking to subtle and understated, ensuring there’s an option for every occasion.
The smooth bi-directional action of the bezels enhances their usability, and the ease of swapping them is a testament to Nivada Grenchen’s thoughtful 4-bearing design. However, I do wonder about the long-term durability of the interchangeable mechanism. Nonetheless, it feels robust out of the box. Only time will tell if it can withstand years of regular use.
The Landeron 70
At the heart of the Chronomaster is the manually wound Landeron 70 movement. This caliber is a faithful recreation of the original Chronomaster’s movement, offering a tactile connection to the watch through the manual winding experience. The movement operates with reliability and precision, providing a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It’s a nod to traditional watchmaking that enthusiasts will undoubtedly appreciate.
A Brief History of Nivada Grenchen and the Chronomaster
Nivada Grenchen, founded in 1926, was once a prominent player in the Swiss watch industry. Known for its innovative designs and robust tool watches, the brand earned a loyal following before fading into obscurity in the late 20th century. In recent years, the brand has been revived, much to the delight of vintage watch enthusiasts.
The Chronomaster holds a special place in Nivada Grenchen’s history, originally launched in the 1960s as one of the first true multi-purpose tool watches. Its combination of chronograph, diving, and aviation capabilities made it a cult favourite among adventurers and professionals. The modern reissue Chronomaster, courtesy of Guillaume Laidet, retains the spirit of the original while incorporating subtle updates that enhance its performance and wearability.
Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 38mm Diameter 46.5mm Lug to Lug 13.7mm Thickness Screw Down Case Back Interchangeable, Friction Bezel 100m of Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Double-domed Sapphire Crystal Bicompax Panda Dial Applied Markers Baton Hands Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Landeron 70 32 Jewels 28 800vph 48-Hour Power reserve |
| Strap | Tropic, Leather, Rally, Flatlink & Beads-of-Rice Options |
Nivada Grenchen Chronogmaster Aviator Sea Diver Inter.Bezel
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Final Thoughts
The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Inter.Bezel is a triumph of vintage-inspired design and modern functionality. From its impeccable case proportions and crystal clarity to the historical significance of the Singer dial, this watch has much to offer. The manual winding Landeron 70 movement adds a layer of charm and authenticity, while the innovative interchangeable bezel system sets it apart in a crowded market (Formex being the only other major player offering such an option).
The variety of bezel selections, their quality, and the ease of swapping them make this watch a versatile companion for any adventure. While the durability of the bezel mechanism remains to be seen, the overall execution is undeniably impressive. Nivada Grenchen has once again proven its ability to honour its storied past while embracing modern innovation.
Pricing & Availability
The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Inter.Bezel retails for $1975USD on a strap, or $2175USD on either bracelet option. Please consult the website for more details.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
Off The Cuff articles are full-length, hands-on reviews of the watch in question and represent the opinion of the author only. All photos are original, unless specified otherwise. If you would like to have your watch reviewed on this site, contact us here.
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