The Bond Watch: OMEGA Seamaster 300M 2531.80

The 2254.50 vs the 2531.80

When I began to think about a watch to commemorate my retirement from a 27-year career in education, I wanted two things. The first, was to celebrate the end of something that had come to define me. I loved teaching. The second, was to possess something that would accompany me everywhere in this next stage of my life. I wanted it to be “my watch.”

There were many timepieces in the running. Some were new, and some–like this one–were vintage.

Did I want something to start fresh? Or something to continue the journey?

^{OMEGA Seamaster 300m 2531.80 Bond Watch @calibre321}

Check out the OMEGA Seamaster Ploprof

In the end, I settled on the Seamaster because I love the water. But after many years of collecting and reviewing, I also know what I like. And I wanted an aluminum bezel–something, that like me, will age.

As such, it came down to the 2254.50 and the 2531.80. Both have chronometer certified movements but are ETA-based and easily serviceable.

The Bond Watch

However, if you have followed this blog—or my Instagram account—for a while, you know I like a good story as much as I like a good watch. And the story behind the 2531.80, with its emblematic connection to the Bond franchise may well have been what tipped the scale. It’s a Bond watch that wasn’t created for the movie–simply a production watch, selected by costume designer Lindy Hemming who encountered former Navy men among her father’s circle of friends, and recalled that they all wore Omegas.

Since Goldeneye, Omega has been the official watch of the James Bond franchise. In the 1995 film, Pierce Brosnan wore the Omega Seamaster 300M Quartz (2541.80.00)—often referred to today as “the Bond Watch.” However, in subsequent films, including Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), The World Is Not Enough (1999), and Die Another Day (2002), Brosnan traded in his quartz reference for the automatic 2531.80.00.

And frankly, I just like blue.

Key Features of the OMEGA Seamaster 300m 2531.80

At 41mm in diameter and 11.5mm in height, the SMP 2531.8 is not a big watch, but it does feel heavy and substantial. Despite this weight, however, it is one of the most comfortable watches I have worn. While the curvaceous case and slender profile may account for some of this, it is really the bracelet and lug design which are responsible for the tight fit.

While the nine row, stainless steel band has been a point of contention since the watch’s inception in 1993, I actually find it quite nice. It’s substance and lack of taper help act as a suitable counterweight and keep the watch balanced and well-seated. The clasp is bulky, and slightly convex, but it is also sturdy and athletic. It functions with a simple push-button release, and while it was designed before the age of widespread on-the-fly micro-adjust, it does have a diver’s extension.

What I love most about the design is the actual case shape. While some find the helium escape valve to be vestigial and awkward, I love the asymmetry. I also really like the scalloped bezel, even though it does not make for an ideal dive instrument. The twisted lugs, which taper down to 20mm, also provide a sense of aerodynamics to the overall silhouette.

The wave dial texturing is perfect, and I actually think the stunted hour hand is smart addition. It is reminiscent of mid-century French dive watches and can be more quickly differentiated from the minute hand when diving.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 1120. OMEGA modified the ETA 2892-A2 movement to include 23 jewels, rather than 21. It has a 4Hz beat rate and a 44-hour power reserve. The last full service on this watch (though I did have it pressure-tested and the crystal replaced just recently) was in 2022. It currently runs about -1 second a day—well within COSC specs.

Contemporary strap options

Despite enjoying the OEM bracelet, I have tried out a number of different strap options over the last two months and settled on a few winners.

The Artem Nylon Strap

The first are a couple of NATOs from Artem straps. Their Nylon Watch Straps are unbeatable. The hardware is solid. Each band is equipped with three keepers–two are fixed, and one floats. This allows you to adjust the strap comfortably. The buckle and keepers are both polished and signed.

However, it’s the material which is the real strength here. The NATOs are made from polyamide–a synthetic polymer with an increased crystallinity. This is much more durable than polyester. It is also resistant to UV rays, more elastic, and wicks quickly after a swim.

While there are many colours in the Artem catalogue, the “Summer Blue” and “Blue Bond” work best with the SMP. Their satin sheen and different hues of blue really suit.

The Forstner President (1450)

My second discovery is the Forstner President (1450)—which has been designed specifically for the pre-2018 Seamaster 300m. If it’s the OEM bracelet that has kept you out of a Seamaster until now, this is the solution. The brushed links have a robust and substantial feel and are attached with screws for easy sizing. They are uniformly finished in a satin brushing with no sharp edges.

The bracelet—modelled after the famous Speedmaster band—tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp. And I find that it completely changes the look of the watch as a result—leaving it more refined and elegant in appearance. It has been engineered with solid H-shaped endpieces and a push-button clasp with 6 increments of micro-adjust. There is also an added “stretchy” link which expands naturally with the swell of your wrist to allow for greater comfort.

WIS Rubber Straps

Finally, the fitted strap. When the SMP 2531.80 was released, there was no OEM curved strap. However, today OMEGA makes one for the newer line, as do many 3^rd party purveyors. Nonetheless, the new collection has a slightly different case size and lug pin placement, so there is no guarantee of a tight fit.

WIS Fitted Rubber strap for OMEGA Seamaster — ^{Marine Blue fitted rubber strap from WIS Straps @calibre321}

I took a chance with WIS straps and couldn’t be happier with the result. The brand (Watch Innovation Straps) offers 7 different colours for the Seamaster. Marine Blue is the no-brainer for the Bond watch; but Miami Blue, Polar White, and Glacier Blue are all solid options. Even Tuxedo Black works out nicely.

The straps come with OEM spring bars for easy installation, and I was pleasantly surprised with the tolerances at the lugs and case edge. The rubber is supple and strong. The brushed hardware is robust. And there are two additional rubber keepers for a trim appearance. I could drive myself crazy swapping these out for a different look each day.

Final Thoughts

The OMEGA Seamaster 300m 2531.80 wears just as well as any modern dive watch. Even after 26 years, the lume is incredible. While it is most definitely a product of the 90s, it could pass for the latest release–so iconic and unchanged is the design. Upgrades to the bracelet abound. While purchasing a “vintage” timepiece often dictate a restriction in its usage, the SMP is still fit for active duty. It’s easily serviceable movement and robust build quality mean that it will likely remain as such for years to come. It is a small bit of horological–and cinematographic–history for your wrist.