Vintage-styled handwound chronograph
The new HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph is the followup to the brand’s sold out SpectreDiver Collection. The vintage-styled skin diver now gets an equally retro-inspired chronograph as a sibling, featuring the handwound Seagulll ST1901.
While the watch comes in two iterations–both now live on Kickstarter–we feature the Mirror Black here. This iteration, in particular, has a warmth and a charm that can only be achieved from a Plexi-glass dome and the intimacy of a handwound calibre.
Key Features of the HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph
To begin, the HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph is particularly well-sized for a mechanical chronograph. Its 316L stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter and a restrained 47mm lug to lug. And while the dome does add 2mm of thickness, the case itself is only 12mm tall.
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Unlike its diving progenitor, the HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph has a bi-directional coin-edge bezel with an aluminum insert and a 12-hour scale, which would allow you to track a second time zone. It features gold-coloured printing to match the gilt highlights on the dial. The scheme works nicely with the faded, tropical nature of the colourway. Even the hints of red on the arrow-tipped chronograph hand and dial text seem slightly washed out–contributing to the vintage aesthetic.
But nothing says “vintage” like a Plexi crystal. The box-style dome creates inventive distortions at the edge of the dial and at certain angles–elongating the circular, plot hour markers.
The 7.5mm crown offers a comfortable winding experience, and the pushers are truly tactile–actuating with a sharp snap. The Seagull ST1901, which drives this handwound chronograph–is visible through the broad display case back. This feature, along with the added ingress of the pushers, does reduce the water resistance to 50m here, but frankly, I wouldn’t want to own an ST1901-powered chrono that didn’t show it off.
The HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph comes on a three-link, Oyster-styled bracelet. The finish, like that of the case, is a mix of brushing and polish. It has a significant taper from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the foldover clasp. There are three increments of micro-adjust, as well. The lugs here are drilled and should provide an easy method for strap changes.
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 39mm Diameter 47mm Lug to Lug 12mm Thick (+2mm Dome) 20mm Lug Width Display Case Back 50m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Plexi Domed Crystal Enamel Dial Applied Hour Markers Custom Arrow Handset BGW9 Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | Calibre ST1901 Manual Winding Chronograph 22 Jewels 21 600bph 50-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Oyster-style Bracelet /w Foldover Clasp |
HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph
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Final Thoughts
If you are searching for a vintage-styled timepiece, the HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph certainly looks the part. And it is very competitively priced, as well. The handset and dial elements remain true to the design of HVD’s original SpectreDiver. The case, however, receives a few tweaks with finer finish and more subtle chamfering, as well as a deeper lug well. The retro pump pushers look and feel great. The Plexi dome, of course, is a highlight.
It feels well balanced and wears very comfortably on wrist thanks to the female endlinks. It has an athletic presence with the tall domed crystal and finely geared bezel. I really like the mix of elements here, as well, that recall the collection’s diving origins but also offer a classic two-register chronograph layout with a case that pulls from a late fifties racing-style.
It would have been nice to see this come in at 100m of water resistance–especially as the term “diver” features in the model name; however, I suspect that this chronograph would not be your go to for deep sea exploration, anyway. It would also be a shame not have such clear view of the ST1901.
All in all, you get a good deal of value here. There are not many mechanical chronographs out there with GMT-functionality and this level of finishing on a bracelet, well below $500 USD.
Pricing & Availability
Kickstarter pricing on the HVD SpectreDiver Chronograph sits at $539SG (approximately $400USD). For more information, please visit the campaign page.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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There’s no way they should’ve called this Spectre Diver Chronograph with 50m WR. But the campaign got cancelled, so I guess it doesn’t matter.