A Return to the Back Catalogue
Perhaps one of the biggest surprises of Watches and Wonders 2023, was the launch of the Black Bay 54. In anticipation of such large events, enthusiasts often chatter over social media—positing theories and submitting fictional wish lists. But no one was expecting the Black Bay 54. A new colourway for the Pelagos 39, perhaps. But not this. And yet, in many respects, the Tudor Black Bay 54 might have been one of the highlights from last year—not just for the brand, but across the watch world spectrum.
While Tudor nomenclature can be a bit murky at times—the Black Bay 41 refers to the size of the watch case, for example—the Black Bay 54, like the Black Bay 58 (darling of the watch universe) refers to a year. At first blush, you might be tempted to think that the BB54 is simply a BB58 “Reduced.” After all, there are plenty of similarities in the overall aesthetic. However, the vintage reference upon which the BB54 is based is actually the 7922; whereas the BB58 is a reinterpretation of the Submariner 7924.
Moreover, while most would say that the Black Bay 58 is “vintage-inspired,” the newer Black Bay 54 remains a much more faithful reissue of the original.
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Key Features of the Tudor Black Bay 54
Perhaps the most obvious visual distinctions between the Black Bay 54 and the BB58, which preceded it, is the case size. The Black Bay 54 is a vintage correct 37mm in diameter. It is also a very tidy 46mm lug to lug with a case thickness of only 11.25mm. On wrist, and on the bracelet, it does not come off as small, exactly. But it is certainly discreet—especially for a diver.
There is a bump in water resistance over the original from 100m to 200m. The screw down case back is sterile, and the crown (also screw down) is much smaller and set closer to the case than that of the BB58.
While the dials share similar indices, colour, and hour makers—as well as the emblematic snowflake handset—there is one subtle difference between the two. In the BB54, we have a return to the lollipop seconds, which, in my opinion is the stronger design choice.
Both also share a satin-finished aluminum bezel. However, in the case of the Black Bay 54, the dive scale is silver in colour—rather than gilt—and devoid of any minute markers. The inverted triangular pip at twelve also doffs the striking red of the BB58. In some respect, these changes make the Black Bay 54 appear plain, by comparison. But they also provide for a clean design and increase its vintage credibility.
The compact, domed sapphire crystal looks beautiful here and offers gentle distortions when the dial is viewed from an angle. Acrylic would also have been an interesting direction, but I suppose there are certain benefits to modern materials that enthusiasts have come to look for in a watch at this price point.
Powering the BB54, we have the MT5400 by Kenissi. It provides a smooth 4Hz sweep and a solid 70-hour power reserve. It also comes chronometer certified.
The reference featured here sports the brand’s familiar three-link rivet bracelet and much heralded T-Fit clasp. There is also a rubber strap option with the same system and steel endlinks. The clasp provides for 7mm of tool-less comfort adjust.
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SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 37mm Diameter 46mm Lug to Lug 11.25mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Screw Down & Case Back Unidirectional Dive Bezel 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Domed Sapphire Crystal Subtle Sunray Dial Applied Markers Snowflake Handset LumiNova |
| Movement | MT5400 COSC-Certified 27 Jewels 28 800vph 70-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Steel Rivet Bracelet /w T-Fit Clasp |
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Final Thoughts
Because of their sizing and toolish appearance, dive watches don’t often make the best daily drivers—let alone GADA pieces. It’s tough to imagine one in a formal setting and a tuxedo. This is not true of the Black Bay 54. The discreet sizing and unpretentious aesthetic of the BB54 lead me to believe that you could step out of the ocean and into a suit jacket without considering a change in your wrist wear. Think of Connery’s Bond in Dr. No and his Rolex 5508 (a close facsimile to the new BB54) paired with a white dinner jacket. Does it get any more debonair than that?
Add to this the contemporary specs—200m of water resistance, sapphire crystal, COSC-certified calibre, T-Fit clasp—and you have a capable timepiece that should be around for your children’s children.
In fact, the Tudor Black Bay 54 is such a well-balanced and thoughtful design that I am tempted to call it a refinement of the BB58. It’s that good.
The Tudor Black Bay 54 retails for $3900 USD on the bracelet. For more information, please visit the brand website.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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