From Bel Canto to C1 Moonphase
It is often only retrospect that we can identify the importance of a seemingly innocuous event—like the release of a new watch, for instance. I am referring here to the 2022 launch of Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto and the bar the watchmaker has set for itself. I am on record as an early fan. In fact, one of the very first articles we ever published (5 Watchmakers Changing the Face of Microbrands) highlighted the work of Christoper Ward.
Its mantra has always been to “produce the cheapest most expensive watches in the world.” If enthusiasts didn’t believe the watchmaker then, they certainly had to after the launch of the Bel Canto—the world’s most affordable Swiss chiming watch. Christoper Ward’s catalogue contains myriad versions of all the usual suspects: field watches, pilot watches, divers, and chronographs. But unlike many brands—and here I include powerhouses such as Rolex and Tudor—Christoper Ward has a vein of complications we often find only in the world of haute horlogerie. Like the new C1 Moonphase.
If the Bel Canto was a gauntlet thrown down in the world of watchmaking, then the C1 Moonphase is the opening volley in the ensuing duel.
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The C1 Moonphase vs the C1 Moonglow
The watch is a departure of sorts in terms of styling. Christoper Ward released its first moonphase, the C9, in 2015 and four years later, they issued the C1 Moonglow as a follow up. Both take a decidedly more classic approach. By comparison, the C1 Moonphase presents a much more minimalistic and—by extension—futuristic design.
As the C1 Moonglow is still available in the brand catalogue, I thought it might be interesting to compare the two.
To begin, the C1 Moonglow features two renderings of the moon on a single plate that spin beneath a tinted sapphire dial. This allows you to see both orbs at all times, if, however, one lies partially obscured.
Aventurine glass
The new C1 Moonphase employs an opaque piece of aventurine glass, instead. The process of creating aventurine was developed on the island of Murano in Venice during the 17th century and involves the use of metal oxides. These copper flakes in Christoper Ward’s dial appear as stars floating in a three-dimensional emulsion of deep blue. As a bi-product of this process, no two dials are alike.
Using the glass to optimal effect, the watchmakers at Christopher Ward have stripped away all other dial elements, leaving only a slim set of polished steel dauphine hands.
Globolight
This expanse of “sky” naturally allows the moon to shine (pun intended). The latest depiction is 25% larger than that which we find in the C1 Moonglow and, of course, one of the two moons is always hidden beneath the glass. The process of rendering the moon, and the materials used, have also changed. The C1 Moonphase employs a product called Globolight, which is a blend of Super-LumiNova and ceramic. The material is then covered with a with a four-colour projection of the actual Moon. As such, the latest iteration has a more realistic appearance.
After dark, and when fully charged, Globolight emits a pale blueish white light that only adds to the realism. The C1 Moonglow, for its part, shines a radioactive green, which has an equally impressive effect—if different—in that you see both moons.
A redesigned Lightcatcher case
The two watches are similarly sized at 40.5mm in diameter; however, the C1 Moonphase is thicker than its predecessor at 13.3mm. Less than half a millimeter separates them lug to lug, with the Moonphase being only slightly shorter at 47.9mm. Despite the largely comparable specs, the watches do wear differently, and this comes down to the new case design.
The C1 Moonphase is horizontally brushed along the midsection with a slim chamfer of polish along the top. The beveled bezel reverses the order with circular brushing next to the box sapphire crystal and polish dividing it from the case.
The C1 Moonglow, by comparison, is largely polished with a more organic midcase, next to the slab-sided Moonphase.
Stainless steel bracelet
The C1 Moonphase gets its own bracelet, as well. It is fashioned from 127 links and a svelte 3mm profile with a gentle taper from the 20mm lugs to the signed butterfly clasp. The visual unity provided by the clasp really suits the overall simplicity of the design and it is certainly comfortable on wrist.
Customised calibre
Christopher Ward recycles its own JJ04 calibre here, as evidenced through the exhibition case back. The movement uses a custom designed moonphase module that replaces the date wheel in the Sellita SW200 base and links it to the hour hand. This makes the passage of the moon through the aperture at twelve a smooth one. Technically, if kept wound, the watch would track the lunar cycles accurately for 128 years—not that you will be around to test the theory.
SPECS
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 40.5mm Diameter 47.9mm Lug to Lug 13.3mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Screw Down Case Back 30m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Box Sapphire Crystal Avenutrine Glass Dial Moonphase Aperture at Twelve Globolight Moons |
| Movement | Calibre JJ04 Moonphase Module Sellita SW200-1 Base 26 Jewels 28 800bph 38-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Steel 127-Link Bracelet /w Butterfly Clasp |
The C1 Moonphase from Christopher Ward
Final Thoughts
The Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is a visual treat. If you despair over that fact that non-watch folk never comment on your wristwear, this is the solution for you. I find that it wears very nicely on the bracelet—though you can purchase it on Italian leather, as well. As someone who migrates naturally toward tool watches, I could certainly envision this as my dresser.
While I cannot say that it is better or worse than the C1 Moonglow, I can confidently say that with this watch Christopher Ward is stretching its proverbial wings as a watchmaker. The C1 Moonglow is a beautiful piece with its own highlights, and perhaps a more attractive and complex case. However, it is the more conservative aesthetically.
The C1 Moonphase is designed around its function, as though the watch exists solely to showcase its own beautifully imagined geography. And that’s alright with me.
Pricing & Availability
The C1 Moonphase is currently available for pre-order at $2475 USD on the bracelet with delivery promised in early April of 2024. For more information, please visit the brand website.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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