Smaller, Tighter & More Mature
Back in 2020, Breitling quietly released a redesigned line of its famed Chronomat. The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 was a riff on the original 1984 model—bold, brash, and a little in your face. But it also reigned in on the case size and toned down a little on the quirkiness. The result is a stolid luxury watch that looks and feels the business.
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The Ultimate Breitling Aerospace
Key Features of the Breitling Chronomat B01 42
The new case is 42mm, as you might guess from the name. While that isn’t exactly small, it’s Breitling small. Older models of the Chronomat measured in at a formidable 47mm in diameter. The case remains relatively thick, however, at 15.1mm with a lug to lug of 50.5mm. Nonetheless, this somehow manages to feel compact. I attribute this dichotomy to the denseness of the design—the raised rider tabs, the asymmetrical crown and pusher guard, the thick dome-shaped crown. Somehow the proliferation of these elements in a smaller space feels tight, in a good way.
The overall impression is definitely a vintage, “back-to-Breitling” appearance, but also one of maturity—like an elder statesman. It still strikes you as a military watch, but more like a crafty Air Chief Marshall than a maverick stick-monkey.
While Breitling launched a stainless steel version with 18k red gold rider tabs on the bezel, crown, and pushers, as well as a “drippier” version with even more red gold in the bracelet and bezel—in addition to an iteration with a full on 18k red gold case—the stainless steel panda dial featured here is my favourite.
Breitling on Bloor in Toronto was kind enough to send it over so that I could spend some time with it. They were also gracious enough to allow me a few hours one afternoon to photograph the copper dialed reference (and numerous other models), during a store visit. It also makes a cameo appearance here and would be a close second if I had to make a choice.
COSC-Certified Chronometer
The other two production models include a blue and black dial. All four sport contrasting sub-registers, which has become a Breitling handshake for “this watch is equipped with our manufacture B01 calibre.” The movement, visible through the case back, is a self-winding column wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch. It is a solid 4Hz movement with a proven track record dating back to 2009 and a 70-hour power reserve. It’s a COSC-certified chronometer, which means that it must perform within -4 to +6 seconds a day. It features Damaskeening and latticework cutaways on the rotor which reveal more of the inner workings beneath.
The radially brushed silver dial is a small marvel to look at. The recessed sub-dials have perfect vinyl album azurage, with tiny hands cut to match the beveled hour and minute set. The central chronograph hand is equipped with a stylized “B” to match the logo font, and the hour markers are applied batons with laser-sharp beveling. They are also inset with Swiss Super-LumiNova like many of the dial elements, including the bezel pip at twelve. Around the outside, in the rehaut, we find a tachymeter scale, as well as a red minute track which is just enough to reflect the colouring of central chronograph hand.
Roll Out the Rouleaux
But for all the impressive specs and rugged good looks, the pièce de resistance is the redesigned “rouleaux” bracelet. Older models did feature something visually similar, but this bracelet is a feat of engineering and extreme tolerances. You won’t have to worry about jangle or the loss of arm hair here. And it has a relatively dramatic taper from the lugs down to the micro-adjusting clasp, making for an attractive and comfortable wrist experience.
Specs
| Case | 316L Stainless Steel 42mm Diameter 50.5mm Lug to Lug 15.1mm Thick /w Glass 22mm Lug Width Screwed Crown & Case back 200m Water Resistance |
| Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Glass /w AR Radially Brushed Dial Applied Indexes Super-LumiNova |
| Movement | B01 Chronograph COSC-Certified Chronometer Central Chrono, Small Seconds, 30-Minute Counter, 12-Hour Register & Date @3 28 800bph 47 Jewels 70-Hour Power Reserve |
| Strap | Stainless Steel Rouleaux Bracelet /w Micro-adjust |
Breitling Chronomat B01 42
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Of Interest
The story behind the Chronomat is not at all one of luxury, but of function. Originally, Breitling produced the watch for a squadron of the Italian Airforce—the Frecce Tricolori. It marked the centenary of the brand and also the return of prominence of the mechanical chronograph at a time when thinner, more modern quartz watches had usurped the market.
Final Thoughts
Functional and luxurious at the same time, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 finds a near perfect balance between vintage styling and modern sensibility. Finely proportioned, with an emblematic design that pronounces Breitling, but not too loud, the Chronomat feels like a proper luxury watch. Beginning in the upper echelons of four figures, the price of the Chronomat puts it in tight against competitors like Omega, IWC, and Rolex with their aviation-inspired offerings. And it doesn’t suffer for it. If you are looking for a distinctive wrist experience that forgoes trendiness for brand heritage—one that exudes masculinity and athleticism—you could certainly do worse than the Chronomat.
Pricing & Availability
The stainless steel Breitling Chronomat B01 42 on the rouleaux bracelet retails for $8750 USD ($10 950 CAD). For more information, please visit the brand website, or check it out at Breitling on Bloor.
About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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